Trying to build a tricycle

[curtisfox]

Yep would be last resort. Didn’t see the spacers, so you are right. My eyes ar old and not the best anymore, so I cop it and past into my email, then when I open I can zoom it some, LOL......Curt

 

[indian22]

Yeah mine too Curt, glasses plus magnifier. Good idea on using email to zoom some of these microscopic photos.

Rick C.

 

[curtisfox]

Just relooked, my iPad I can in-large them up. He has a large stack of washers, that would be a no- no.getting older is not all cracked up to be..........Curt

 

[Bobsaget]

The spacer is a one piece 30mm tube not a stack and I put it there to raise up the front to get it looking more like I wanted it to look and get the rear bars level with the ground. I guess I can remove it and place smaller rear tires for the same effect.

Can someone clearly explain (sorry the last posts were impossible for me to follow) how this causes a problem? I’m studying the fork setup now and I don’t see an issue with this setup but I’m new to building bikes. The position of the head doesn’t seem to have any change on how the tire fits the fork which is my issue.

 

[curtisfox]

First your setup is wrong the rockers are tipped up, that means there is no movement left. If you hit a big bump the tire will hit the fork and just may lock up, if that happens you could flip forward and TKO and get heart. If you take the spacer out the rocker will be down the way they are suppose to be, and have room to pivot, and give you clearance so it don't bottom out. You may have to give up some looks for proper function. Hope that explains it...........Curt

 

[Bobsaget]

First your setup is wrong the rockers are tipped up, that means there is no movement left. If you hit a big bump the tire will hit the fork and just may lock up, if that happens you could flip forward and TKO and get heart. If you take the spacer out the rocker will be down the way they are suppose to be, and have room to pivot, and give you clearance so it don't bottom out. You may have to give up some looks for proper function. Hope that explains it...........Curt

Ok thanks Curt this all makes sense I’ll remove the spacer thanks.

 

[indian22]

Photos of dual springer installed with no spacer or spacers. Black FSA is the headsets bottom bearing cup.

Rick C.

 

[Bobsaget]

Thank you very much Rick for that photo. Today I hammered up the rear part of the fork after I loosened the part circled in yellow and that fixed the problem along with leaving the spacer so not it rises at just the height I wanted. The college girls go nuts when I ride by ( I live right next to NC state in Raleigh)

 

[Bobsaget]

Well she is coming along. Got the engine and shift kit installed. Had to cut the exhaust pipe as muffler was in the way. Love the scream but hate the look of the cut up exhaust.

Still haven’t figured out what to put on the back. I bought a piece of diamond plate steel and cut it in the shape of a step and painted it but didn’t like the look. Would love to hear ideas. Would rather not pay someone to fabricate it.

 

[curtisfox]

I always fevered a wood stake bed look, something like this......Curt

 

[indian22]

I bet it does "scream" with the stubby pipe Bob. I hope your neighbors are really deaf...you need to wear ear protection and avoid cops.

Buy a bead roller at Harbor Freight and some steel sheet metal and learn to use it or pay someone to do it right either way it'll cost money, but look more like a real Radio Flyer.

The rear wheel covers are a detail that really works on your trike.

Rick C.

 

[Bobsaget]

Can anyone help me with this front disc brake? It almost killed me today. I lost my rear drum brakes because they burnt up so I was only using the front brake to get home when the disk unscrewed from the rim while braking and jammed up the front wheel. It’s nuts that it just screws on. Am I missing a piece of hardware? Why isn’t it reverse threads ? What’s to keep it from unscrewing again? Either I’m missing something (likely) or it’s a Chinese engineering goof up.

 

[indian22]

Bob it sounds like someone converted a freewheel rear hub/wheel for use on the front? If so the disc brake adapter threads onto the freewheel threads which are right hand for use when pedaling forward. When you use this screw on type disk brake adapter for braking it loosens the adapter when it's mounted on the right. pedal chain side of the bike. Flip the wheel over with the rotor on the left side of the fork and when you apply the brakes the adapter tightens under braking pressure.

It's a mickey mouse way to get a disc on the front wheel but actually works pretty
well when installed correctly. I've never seen a factory built wheel sold like this and it's really dangerous. They should have warned you that the rotor had to be mounted on the left side, but they really shouldn't have sold you this hub in the first place!

If your fork has caliper mounts on both legs this works out well for you, if not you will need to add a caliper adapter to the left fork leg. Ten bucks or so. Also if you're running tires that are directional you will need to remount the tire to run correctly after flipping the wheel over.

Glad you didn't suffer a horrible injury.

Rick C.

 

[zing]

I just finished a Schwinn Mercian. I originally had a 212 for it but figured it overkill and too fast. Went with a 49cc HS with a 5:1 gear box. Chose ratios to keep speeds in the mid 20s as wife will use it.Trikes get squirrly much faster. Super easy build. Sorry about the crappy pic. View attachment 101524

I'm a little late catching up but this is a nice and clean build. I like it !

 

[zing]

Like Curt said, extend the tubes 3/4" but I've no idea of your metal working skills and some are required to do it this way. 24" wheel and a wide tire is a simple way that's quick, clean but not free. Don't grind the fork tubes they are really thin wall tubing & safety is always top priority.

If you decide to go the tire wheel change out you might consider using a 24" front electric motor hub, that really simplifies the motor and drive setup 350 to 500 watt 36 volt will roll you faster than I'd want to go on your trike 20 + mph easy...don't get me wrong I love the idea of gas powered it's just a lot more work to get rolling and keep rolling.

The step plates I remember would require a bead roller and some sheet metal skills to duplicate. If you can settle for "in the spirit of" a pedal trike... treadplate or expanded metal on a metal frame both cut to the appropriate shape and size can be considered. I've built some pretty complex shapes using 1"x I/8" strap steel shaped around wooden forms. Then tacking the top (step plate) to the strap frame & then removing the wood form. Easier to do than to describe however, if you have some metal working skills.

Is the "trike section steel"? If so attaching the step platform is also somewhat simplified...I've found not many feel confident nor have the equipment to properly weld aluminum.

Rick C.

That's sound advice on the speed of trikes ! I was actually debating which electric hub to put on one !