Clucth in at idle and engine reving out of control?

S

saolom

New Member
I'm having problems trying to stay idle at traffic lights etc..

Everytime I try and clutch in, it revs out of control? No air leak because when I choke the engine it dies, the idle adjustment screw is reasonable 1.5 turns out, clucth cable has been greased, no boost bottle or nos. Very anoying!.bld.

Any help would be fantastic! this engine has been running for 6months hard and with 2k km;s +
 
When you turn your idle screw in or out, does it effect the engine rpm? I'm wondering if your cable is too tight. Also, when you pull in your clutch, the cable moves. Is it pushing against your throttle and moving the cable, causing the extra rpm?
That's all I can think of.
 
yes it revs higher and lower when I adjust the idle, have double checked the cables and are all fine.

cheers toytime!
 
I would still check for an air leak. If you have a rich carb setting, and an air leak you will have the symptoms described, including the ability to kill it with the choke.
 
Does the idle screw change it at all? I had that problem and I had to shorten the housing on my throttle cable to get enough slack.
 
I'll check for the air leak by using inscents so see how I go. The idle stays idle and does not roll only if I pull the cluctch in 5-6mm but anymore and it will start to go.

Thanks guy will check now.
 
yes the engine is good. No air leak.

I can't seem to find an answer yet?

Hope someone else can.

thanks in advance!
 
Incense? to find an air leak?

Best way to find an air leak is to spray Carb Cleaner around the area you are checking but not the air filter. The engine will slow down or die when the carb cleaner hits the air leak.
 
You say it revs higher and lower when you play with the idle screw. You then say that if you pull the clutch in part way, it idles OK but if you pull the clutch more, it speeds up.
That is because the "drag" caused by clutch pads slows the motor down when the clutch is pulled in part way.
This is a hard one to figure, mainly because you have been using the bike for months.
Almost sounds as if you cable housing is too long, keeping the idle high but then I think about you saying the idle screw can bring the idle down.
Would a slightly high float level keep an engine running at high idle?
 
very easy thing to do is:
you can take off the aircleaner and look at the throttle slide and twist the throttle watch the slide and see if goes all the way open and all the way closed you will also see the choke plate and work it so you can see how it works.
 
Thanks guys for your help so far.

I've checked for air leak and found the head gasket leaking a tiny bit and retighten the 4 bolts again. Now no more leak.

I decided to change carb and put in a spare one that is newier version and still getting the same same problem.



I took the clucth cover off and saw a the small gear nut hanging out loose! Man the threads are gone? would this be the problem?

.bld.
 
saolom said:
Thanks guys for your help so far.

I've checked for air leak and found the head gasket leaking a tiny bit and retighten the 4 bolts again. Now no more leak.

I decided to change carb and put in a spare one that is newier version and still getting the same same problem.



I took the clucth cover off and saw a the small gear nut hanging out loose! Man the threads are gone? would this be the problem?

Never been across this ever. weired

.bld.
Click to expand...

????????? .bld.
 
can you post a picture of the loose nut and where it goes? then I might be able to help you more or tell you whats up.
Norman
 
Yes sure,

100_2658.jpg


100_2660-1.jpg


thanx
 
your kit should have a gear puller that came with it you might want to pull off the gear to check the woodruff key make sure its not sheared off you might be able to retap the crank threads and get your self a new screw for the gear from Dax or go to a store that sells metric bolts and get a replacement.
If the crank threads are damaged you can drill it a little deeper and retap it and use a longer screw its a little work and a pain if you don't have the tools but should be repairable as cheap as these engines are look into buying just the engine or the parts your going to need. you need to check and see which will be the best deal for you time and expense wise.

look at my posts in the classic post thread I show how to do the pulling of that gear and what to look for I think it will be on page two in the total engine tear down thread.
If you need to redrill it deeper and tap it you can also go with an sae thread(american) it don't have to be metric.
Norman
 
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yep I do have the puller tool. I've checked for the woodkey thingy and its still good. Nothing wrong here. Will find another bolt as you said and will re screw it back in.
Do you think that this bolt will cause the over reving when the clucth is puller all the way in norman?

In the mean time i do have another engine on my bike for now for work but will still fix this first engine problem.

Spent $200au for the kit so don't wana waste it a throw it out just yet even though I have had my fair share on it.

Thanks
 
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