First start not starting!
- Thread starter D.Knight
- Start date
You might want to start here> http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=35090
This should answer any questions and help you determine what's wrong.
Good luck.
Tom
This should answer any questions and help you determine what's wrong.
Good luck.
Tom
As above stated, 16:1 is way too thick and will contribute to the problem. You will be safe at 32:1.
Please list the number and letter code for the plugs that you have.
You can try gapping the plug down to .022 to help with your first start.
Please list the number and letter code for the plugs that you have.
You can try gapping the plug down to .022 to help with your first start.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PAEE6UQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OIQ3ZYU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And a champion jbc 959. That's all the markings on that one. And I'm about to order the ngk (6953) BKR5E-11 V-Power Spark Plug
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OIQ3ZYU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And a champion jbc 959. That's all the markings on that one. And I'm about to order the ngk (6953) BKR5E-11 V-Power Spark Plug
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Here's a post with suitable plugs. I would stay with something from this list. Forget about those generic plugs on amazon.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=10560
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=10560
Thank you, huge help! Now my question is, do I need one with the longer thread count with the stock head or would a shorty work?
You can probably find this in a thread here but I would say that you only have to worry about a long plug hitting the piston. Again, stick to the list and you should be just fine.
NGK - B6HS, B7HS, BP6HS, BP7HS seem to be to be the most popular
NGK - B6HS, B7HS, BP6HS, BP7HS seem to be to be the most popular
Thanks for the info Chaz, again, huge help. I ordered the ngk bp6hs and will be delivered Tuesday (gotta love Prime). I'm thinking about getting a pull start kit, I assume it would help getting it started, plus it's only $15
I don't know if the pull start would help and you may have fitment issues with the pedal clearance. I don't know as I've never used one. The forum is your resource and you'll probably find some good info if you comb the threads. Experts may weigh in here with advice.
For your first start up I would leave it and stick with the bump start so you can peddle for a while if that's what it takes to fire it up.
For your first start up I would leave it and stick with the bump start so you can peddle for a while if that's what it takes to fire it up.
Hi I'm new Hear and still figuring out how to post & where to! But I have similar problems to what I'm reading hear! I just installed a Brand new Flying Horse 66cc/80cc engine from Bikeberry! It started up on third try then adjusted the idle left it run a bit, and when I tried to drive it, it would Buck Alot and opening the choke with stop it, and now on the second Day it won't stay idling nor will it drive it Bucks way to Bad! All most sounds like a air leak but there is None we checked! I used 8oz of oil for first take the spark plug when I remove it is oily I a just the clip on the pin in carb and no difference! Can Anyone Help me out! Would Be Greatly Appreciated! If I'm posting in wrong spot just let me No!
Benbono, your mix of 8 ounces per gallon is 16:1 which is really heavier than needed. The manuals or instructions recommend this high ratio to make sure people don't go too lean and it protects the warranty. In truth you can go to 32:1 straight from the beginning and be safe.
When you are changing the needle clip settings give the bike a bit of a run to see how it reacts, don't just go to the end of the block.
Good idea to clean the plug. If you are using the kit supplied plug it would be good to replace with one mentioned in this thread.
When you are changing the needle clip settings give the bike a bit of a run to see how it reacts, don't just go to the end of the block.
Good idea to clean the plug. If you are using the kit supplied plug it would be good to replace with one mentioned in this thread.
Also remember they often run like poo when brand new. Takes awhile to get the rings seating properly so compression is marginal for first 1/2-3/4 of a tank of fuel.
They will start to run better after second tank so don't even worry about trying to tune it until third or fourth tank.
They will start to run better after second tank so don't even worry about trying to tune it until third or fourth tank.
Thank you, I tried today to get it going, it will start and idle for a minute or 2 and then I have to throttle it, I moved the clip down towards the long end of the pin with no change, so I put it back to the second slot from the short end it was at, also the idle screw really don't help Alot can barely tell a diffrence, I'm guna drain the gas and go at the ratio you told me! Hopefully that's what it needs! Thank you again
Good that you're changing your fuel/oil mix, and to have it confirmed by an expert like maniac should make you feel comfortable.
If the idle screw is having no effect then check your throttle cable and carb cap adjustments and verify that carb slide is travelling all the way down.
Also the idle can change a bit from cold engine to operating temperature. Especially since this is a fresh engine. Don't get hung up on fancy tuning until you've got some miles on it. It needs to be broken in first.
If the idle screw is having no effect then check your throttle cable and carb cap adjustments and verify that carb slide is travelling all the way down.
Also the idle can change a bit from cold engine to operating temperature. Especially since this is a fresh engine. Don't get hung up on fancy tuning until you've got some miles on it. It needs to be broken in first.
Yeah I realized after looking through a few different ones that they're decent at best.
This forum is definitely an invaluable resource.
I'll also drain my tank and take my gallon of 16:1 and mix in around a half gallon of of straight gas. I decided to go with 91, is that too rich? I figured it would help during the break in period and getting it started for the first time.
Hi D.Knight, yes definitely thin your fuel/oil mix. You could probably add 3/4 of a gallon straight gas to the remaining original gallon assuming you've only taken one tankful from it. That would put you around 32:1 which is plenty safe.
If you've already mixed it up with the half gallon don't worry, you should still be able to start it up. You can gap the plug down to .022 to help it spark easier.
91 octane is a fine choice.
Apologies for enabling a mild threadjacking by Benbono but I didn't see any harm. If he's reading this and has any more questions I would suggest he start his own thread in the troubleshooting section to help keep the info relevent.
If you've already mixed it up with the half gallon don't worry, you should still be able to start it up. You can gap the plug down to .022 to help it spark easier.
91 octane is a fine choice.
Apologies for enabling a mild threadjacking by Benbono but I didn't see any harm. If he's reading this and has any more questions I would suggest he start his own thread in the troubleshooting section to help keep the info relevent.
I was going to do the fuel mix tomorrow so I'll just go with a whole gallon and mix the two. I got the new spark plugs in today, but I managed to break both of my fuel filters in the time it took to get the plugs, so I can't try to start it until the new ones come tomorrow. I did try to look for spark by resting the plug on the head and turning the rear wheel but I'm still not seeing anything. I'm wondering if the paint on the head is affecting this method or I'm just missing something. I've put the meter on the cdi and magneto a hundred times by now and everything seems to read out fine. I do, however, have an ngk cdi on the way. Whether that's the issue or not, can't hurt right?
And no worries on the minor interruption, this forum is as much of the learning and experimenting as actually working on the bike.
And no worries on the minor interruption, this forum is as much of the learning and experimenting as actually working on the bike.