Redbox Racer post build build thread

[ZipTie]

Call Duane at that's Dax, get an FS80, it'll run you about $150 shipped. Balanced crank, 40mm rod, grade 8 hardware throughout. Best bang for your buck.

Big Thanks Mr M-Monster, Good to know this info and his stock number, price because his web site puts me into seizure mode, I don't ever know what description goes with what engine and all the options.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68roPGcAfXs

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Zip

 

[mogollonmonster]

I hear you, it took me forever to figure out that schizophrenic lay out. Glad I did though, I can post his phone number if you like, but I'm pretty sure it's on the top of his page, in some funky color or another.

 

[mogollonmonster]

Oh and have him build you the motor for his RT head, and pick one up with your order. He won't charge extra for the set-up, and the head is about $37. Its defiantly worth it. Lots of power and lower temps. Like Twain said, "-you will not regret it, if you live" lol

 

[2Slow4U]

@ziptie

Sounds about right it's my fault the tach died. I ordered a new one already so I can have it sitting on the bike with no engine. Some of the pictures I took I had HDR turned on so it let way too much light in.


The FS80 is different from the F80 right? I went to the site and ended up more confused than when I started. How much better is it than the normal HT engine?

Also, will the dax stuff work with the other chinese stuff?

 

[ZipTie]

@2slow4u. Yep as long as the new tach isn't hooked up to anything it wont break. You need to get the Mogollonmonster to translate the Dax web site, Some how he manages to figure out what goes with what and he knows his stuff. I always leave way too confused and scared to hit the buy button. All I know is Duane at Dax seems to never let's anyone down. Yes all his stuff is compatible he seeks out the best available and reworks what's needed.

Zip

 

[mogollonmonster]

I'm pretty sure what the difference is that.... I have no idea lol. He sells both the 49 and the 60-ish cc motors, he also uses the same engine as the basis of his 'Lil Evil' kit, which is an F(s)80 with some soup poured on it.

I've bought a few things off the website, but usually I just call, I'm a red neck, I like to flap my jaw with folks, especially if they know stuff I don't. Just give him a ringy dingy, he's answered the phone for me at 7:00pm on a Saturday. If he's there, he'll answer, he was working on a customer's gearbox. THAT'S customer service!

If we all piss and whine, maybe he'll finally fix the site...lol

If I'm not mistaken the difference between F and FS is that the F denotes his "block" (which is actually a running engine without carb and exhaust.) whereas FS denotes his kit. I could be wrong. In all honesty, the key to figuring out his site is to use it like a photo inventory of his stock, then call him. That's how I do it, picture, price, phone. Primitive, I know, but they don't call me Kaveman for nothing.

 

[2Slow4U]

I'll call him up once I get some money together. I've got to get some work done on my teef that will cut into my bike budget big time. Hopefully the tooth fairy will go easy on me.

I have a couple options, the cheapest route seems to be to just get the bottom end and re-use my old top.

I might just save my pennies and bust open my piggy bank and get the little evil kit for the extra soup.

 

[mogollonmonster]

2Slow, I have joined the Upside Down Tank Club. Front tank bracket went AWOL, and I got my right boot filled with premix...

All extra soup is worth it! That motor, with the SBP pipe you have should do 40 easily, depending on your weight. I just kissed at 37 (36.9mph) on murder yesterday.

 

[ZipTie]

2Slow, I have joined the Upside Down Tank Club. Front tank bracket went AWOL, and I got my right boot filled with premix...

All extra soup is worth it! That motor, with the SBP pipe you have should do 40 easily, depending on your weight. I just kissed at 37 (36.9mph) on murder yesterday.

MM, it would of been nice if you would of sent photographic proof of your feat. However, we trust your word. So you now get the rare member bonus of the upside down tank club, and have acquired instant super elite status and hall of fame induction for boot fillage gas foot. It's a true feat. ( no pun ) congrats!
Dang it...I've got to try an expansion chamber exhaust and graduate from my almost free, downward pointing mini factory, flash chromed, rattling, power robing poo poo pipe.



2slowforu, teeth (teef) can be as painful as the bill they give you after the fix. Hopefully you get back on the road soon.

 

[jeffyh]

OMG, where'd you get that chain tensioner? Been looking for one that mounts closer to the engine. Do you have any issues with the chain popping off the rear sproket?

 

[2Slow4U]

Here ya go.

I don't have any problems with it, it's one of the most reliable parts of the bike.

 

[ZipTie]

I agree If your going to run a tensioner this style is the best. It always keeps the chain perfect and makes the whole chain drive whisper silent. This type also provides the correct tension where it's needed most by the small sprocket which is the most likely area of derailing and jamming. I talk from experience. Also using the skate board wheel has 10 ball bearings versus just 2 in stock wheels and the chain doesn't hit the groove sides in the slotted idler wheels that cause problems for the chain sides rubbing. Tip: Get almost all the slack out of the chain and use this style and your golden.

 

[2Slow4U]

The tooth fairy was very good to me and I was able to order a little evil today. I'm pretty excited. It's coming with all the soup.

On another note, the broken tachometer is still displaying the same number, so at least I know it has a good battery life!

 

[2Slow4U]

What's the best way to deal with all the excess wire on the tach? Can it be cut?

 

[ZipTie]

Yep.... cut away all you want.

 

[2Slow4U]

I spent Wednesday and today putting the engine on. I didn't keep track of time but if I was drinking I would say it was an 8-10 beer job. It was 50% installing and 50% finding bolts that I dropped.

THE BUILD
I was pretty excited to get it all out of the box and get started.

Had to dremel down the little ball on the end of the throttle cable to get it to fit into the tube thing.

The new carb with the new filter and giant adapter gasket took a ton of space which left barley any room for engine placement. I had a really hard time getting it wedged in there. Although, the air filter stood up to the abuse, it seems pretty nice. I'm thinking an offset intake manifold will fix the space problem.

New carb leaked like a siv. I tried taking it apart to find the leak and a tiny metal piece flew out..(float needle I think)? I spent about half an hour looking for it on the ground until I found it hiding on a little shelf on the engine. Found a couple washers I was looking for there too. All I had to do was look down and I would of found it

The carb has an "auto lock" feature that keeps the choke locked on close until you give it full throttle. I couldn't get that to work and the choke was stuck closed. I spent more time than I would like to admit trying to fix that but ended up just taking that whole feature out. That might be why it's leaking but I don't think so. I ended up just taking it off all together and putting the stock one back on until I can get it sorted out.

The best I could get regarding chain clearance was very close but not touching. I walked around with the bike and I didn't see it touch the engine mounts. Still closer than I would like though.

Lost 2 of the gas tank nuts, the best I I could figure out to rig it up was with zipties.. had to bust out my good ones for it. I don't think it's going anywhere though. I think gas might burn through it though so I need to fix it quick. Did the same thing with the air filter too.

I dropped the lock screw thing when I was adjusting the clutch and took a long time to find that too.

START UP
So after all that It was already dark but I really wanted to try it. I was a little nervous. I got her out on the road, got her up to speed and dumped the clutch. She roared to life on the first try. It was surprising actually. The only problem was that it didn't want to idle. It just wanted to rip.

Hit the kill switch and rolled her back into the shop. Turned the idle screw way down and tried again. Same thing. By now I've already got a lot of wrench time on her in the last 2 days and it was dark so I threw in the towel.

The throttle had a lot of slop in it so I'll work on that. I'll mess with it when I have a fresh head.

I saved up a few unused spark plugs so I can do a proper plug chop when the time comes.

TO DO

Get it running right( and with new carb)
Replace the old and crusted grandpa fuel line
Get a fuel valve that doesn't leak fuel through
Get motorbicycling.com sticker (adds 5 hp)


I took a bunch of pics but they are double the required dimensions and I don't feel like resizing them, you can find them in the gallery in my sig.
Sorry for the huge post, I like to keep a log of my "journey"

 

[ZipTie]

Thanks for the kinda humorous update as the dropped screws and nuts is the
Norm for me too so I could relate. The little devils always roll into a hidden place , like they are trying to hide on purpose! Plus you don't drop them, they actually leap from ones hands, as if to commit suicide and then the little cowards hide.

So on your issues, ill try too keep it short ( but ill probably fail:
As far as your super high stuck idle...
First off 3 in one oil is your best Freind on carb auto chokes or manual choke mechanisms, omg it makes them operate so smooth. also use in cables housings and the carb innard carb slides also on a new build right away before assemble of the carb.

Sounds like your slide has a burr to not let the return spring do its work. So look for any plastic flashing or aluminum burrs. Disassemble the slide and with a slightly oiled paper towel coat the slide and the inside surface. Make sure your Pac man clip is installed right etc.

With the air cleaner off examine the slide going up and down as you pull the throttle an release it. Oil the choke mech inside and out and observe it also before you install it on the engine. Make sure the idle screw is lifting the slide as its turned in against the angled notch on the slide.
Glad your bike wants to go at least that's half the battle, but only half I guess.

To find your lost screws... there is no way to find them ever as they go into another garage dimension usually and are now swirling in a black hole somewhere in outer space. Laff.

Good luck
Zip

 

[curtisfox]

The little devils always roll into a hidden place. Love it as most of the time it's right in plane site, and hidden yet.
Ya 3 in1 good buddies with it, always a can handy.
As for the engine i am a home built 4 stroke man, for the most part, glad you are getting it 2slow..................Curt

 

[ZipTie]

The little devils always roll into a hidden place. Love it as most of the time it's right in plane site, and hidden yet.
Ya 3 in1 good buddies with it, always a can handy.
As for the engine i am a home built 4 stroke man, for the most part, glad you are getting it 2slow..................Curt

Curtis, you speak of the odd cloaking bolts and nuts. Yes they are the worst ones as they delight in making you feel dumb and blind at the same time.

Speaking of 3 in one. It's amazing how it soaks into your skin instantly and then suddenly you can actually taste it... So I know it works...for gosh sakes wear latex gloves when using this wonder oil...

Buckle down the lawn chairs and find your shovel, I hear snow is on the way up here in the true north.

Zip

 

[curtisfox]

Didn't think it was, but now say we could get up to 8". I will be ready ...........Curt