Clutch Won't Disengage
- Thread starter ezrider
- Start date
A real easy way to get your engine started is to reach over with your left hand (while pedaling & bumping the engine)... reach over & slowly raise the choke lever up.
the engine should start right when the lever gets about 2/3 of the way up.
the engine should start right when the lever gets about 2/3 of the way up.
Well I finally did manage to get off one 'POP' from the engine this morning, so thats encouraging. But I'll have to get off a few more pops if I'll ever have a chance of getting it started. So I'm thinking its coming down to chain or clutch gear adjustment. Seems like the bike is breaking to a complete stop when releasing it to engage. Anyone ever had similar start engine issues with either chain or clutch gear adjustment ??
Unless something is locking up it sounds to me as if you're not pedaling fast enough. If you're up to 10 mph, or faster the engine shouldn't stop the bike when it's trying to start.
Do not start messing with the clutch adjustment. That isn't the problem.
What's your spark plug gap? A good place to start is .024 to .028 on the gap.
And get rid of that kit supplied plastic spark plug boot, if that's what you have. Replace it with a good automotive quality boot and make sure you have a good electrical connection with the plug wire conductor.
Tom
Do not start messing with the clutch adjustment. That isn't the problem.
What's your spark plug gap? A good place to start is .024 to .028 on the gap.
And get rid of that kit supplied plastic spark plug boot, if that's what you have. Replace it with a good automotive quality boot and make sure you have a good electrical connection with the plug wire conductor.
Tom
And just what is THAT ?? Anyway, I found myself a downhill road where I can peddle my arse off...and see what happens then.
_
"That"...is exactly what I said. The plastic spark plug boot that comes with many engine kits is the weakest link in the kits. It is probably the biggest cause of "engine will not start" or "engine doesn't run good" issues. The electrical connection is bad and the way it snaps onto the threaded portion of the spark plug is the worst way to conduct the high voltage current necessary for good ignition. This has been covered and discussed here many times.
Replace it and the kit plug with something better, preferably an NGK plug and a boot made to snap onto a standard plug with the top cap installed. And you didn't say what plug gap you're using.
Tom
Hey EZrider did you happen to mention to Everyone that picture of your clutch is a copy of a picture posted by KCvale of 2010. ( http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=22729 ) And is not of your System.
Sorry People I came here looking for answers to my own Questions only to see this poser posting about his clutch but using someone else's pics. I could see if they referred to it. But he posted it as His picture.
And how can we give accurate information if we are given false information from the Start.
Sorry People I came here looking for answers to my own Questions only to see this poser posting about his clutch but using someone else's pics. I could see if they referred to it. But he posted it as His picture.
And how can we give accurate information if we are given false information from the Start.
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For some reason when I coast and brake the bike to a stop, then engage the clutch to accelerate again....the engine dies out. Some say to use the kill switch for stopping....then releasing it to start the engine again. Any suggestions would be welcomed.
Almost sounds like it's starving of fuel, And "I" will never install a Kill switch on one of my rides ever again. The basic kit I got long time ago I installed the kill switch and went thru 2 mags before chucking the kill switch. I choke mine out.
Good Luck
Good Luck
I have been breaking in a new bike and motor. Today after running hard I came home and turned it off. The clutch would not disengage to bring the bike in the house. I checked the cable and the arm was moving as far as it could go but nothing. Now, after letting it cool it easily disengages. Does this mean I am boring my clutch up or there is another problem?
More info. It now seems as though the clutch is permanently disengaged. How did it go from not disengaging to while hot to totally disengaged when cool?