Reed valve without third transfer port or stuffed cases

R

Rudz

New Member
Why are people slapping on Reed valves without proper cylinders? Won't it actually rob compression?
 
The window in the piston is the most important part, if there was no window in the piston (or cut-away from the piston skirt) then you are not increasing your intake timing duration, witch is -among other things- what converting to a reed valve would allow you too do.

Alternatively, if a "boost port" is cut from the bottom of the cylinder bore (underneath the intake port) up through the intake port, and out the top, to the same height as the transfer ports, the piston modification is not required, but will still provide an improvement in overall flow, and performance.

The "boost port" also known as -in our case- the third transfer port (cut from the intake port, up, to the height of the transfer ports) increases the performance gained by creating another path for this extra intake charge (if you do indeed increase the intake timing) to get into the cylinder.


Reed Valve conversion without Piston Window or Boost Port = Meh

Reed Valve conversion with Piston Window and no Boost Port = Improved low end power, possible loss in top end (depending on window size/shape)

Reed valve conversion with Piston Window and Boost Port = Even more improved low end power, with more top end power too.


If you have any other question don't hesitate to PM me.
 
Ok maybe i did not do my motor right then. I have a crappy dax gen IV with a gt5 cyl on it. The original cyl had tiny ports. I have the RSE reed, I widened both intake and exhaust ports, raised the exaust 1mm, lowered the intake 1mm, opened up the transfers, and skirted the bottom of the piston to match the intake port. Oh i also ramped the top of the piston to match the transfers......Do i also need a window on the piston after all this?
 
If running a reed valve, I would HIGHLY recommend the window in the piston.

Here is a pic of the window I make:


13096170_1084294968309249_7686659776855047612_n.jpg
 
Here is the best pic I have of it actually done to a piston.

The top of the windows are "angled" on this one, on my new pistons I cut it like the drawing, flat on top:

13418382_1111261872279225_4644866022323823684_o.jpg


13433130_1111261778945901_5304036934258297917_o.jpg


Don't mind the notch on the left side of the left window (I messed up while machining it >.<)
 
Looks interesting. My bike goes fast but doesnt feel fast getting there. I dont have a side cutter to make that window unless i can find something to fit my dremel.
 
I did all that with a dremel tool.

The "carbide" burrs are what you want for aluminum.

I use the "e-z lock" cut off wheels to rough it out, then various shaped dremel 1/8" carbide burs to clean it up.

The Dremel really is an amazing tool ;)
 
Well thanks for the info, it should be what this motor needs . Right now my workspace is filled with guitar amp stuff as building handwired amps is another hobby. But i will get to this soon.
 
exokinetic said:
Here is the best pic I have of it actually done to a piston.

The top of the windows are "angled" on this one, on my new pistons I cut it like the drawing, flat on top:

13418382_1111261872279225_4644866022323823684_o.jpg


13433130_1111261778945901_5304036934258297917_o.jpg


Don't mind the notch on the left side of the left window (I messed up while machining it >.<)
Click to expand...

Nice work, do you sell these pistons?
 
exokinetic said:
The window in the piston is the most important part, if there was no window in the piston (or cut-away from the piston skirt) then you are not increasing your intake timing duration, witch is -among other things- what converting to a reed valve would allow you too do.

Alternatively, if a "boost port" is cut from the bottom of the cylinder bore (underneath the intake port) up through the intake port, and out the top, to the same height as the transfer ports, the piston modification is not required, but will still provide an improvement in overall flow, and performance.

The "boost port" also known as -in our case- the third transfer port (cut from the intake port, up, to the height of the transfer ports) increases the performance gained by creating another path for this extra intake charge (if you do indeed increase the intake timing) to get into the cylinder.


Reed Valve conversion without Piston Window or Boost Port = Meh

Reed Valve conversion with Piston Window and no Boost Port = Improved low end power, possible loss in top end (depending on window size/shape)

Reed valve conversion with Piston Window and Boost Port = Even more improved low end power, with more top end power too.


If you have any other question don't hesitate to PM me.
Click to expand...
What's the best way to go about cutting the boost port without risk of high spinning carbide bit slipping and scratching the inside of cylinder ?
 
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