My huffy cruiser build [jmrl] [first]

[jMrL]

Hello all!

Welcome to my build! I will be updating this first post with mods and future mods i will be obtaining for my beauty.

I am currently building a lighting system with LED Strip blinkers, Headlight, and Taillight.
I am using a Raspberry pi Board, with a relay. This will be stored in a junction box under my back rack that will carry the board.
Stay Tuned!


Thanks.

[CURRENT]
Aftermarket Tektro Brake's
Complete Bolt and Nut Replacement with m6 Socket caps
Fancy Fuel Line

[FUTURE]
SBP Expansion Chamber
High Grade Spark Plug boot and wire
Lighting system

 

[George Tirebiter]

That screw looks about right, as long as the cable feeds level and straight into the clutch lever.

 

[jMrL]

I believe it's going to be a lil high for my carb once I install a straight manifold and take off the raisded one. But I can adjust asking as my wire is not crimped or n a bind yes?

 

[jMrL]

just got my order in and they added a spark plug to it. Its a LD Z4JC - Is this useable in my 2stroke ? It has 3 legs on it. Never seen these before

 

[George Tirebiter]

Not sure what that plug is. You will get many opinions on plug types here but a lot of people use the NGK- B6HS.

 

[jMrL]

Yeah i have purchased two of them, havent done a plug test yet to install it. Im still running the stock.

I just installed my new studs, and gasket. But after opening the manifold, I see it was for a boost bottle and In the pictures the screw hole was not their, So maybe i got the wrong item> but maybe this is what " tuning manifold " meant. So i used the oring off of it and inserted it into the carb, as a stopper.

I cranked the bad boi up and rode around the block. I noticed allot more power when i hit the throttle and sounded alot better also. Its possibly i had a leak at the manifold and this fixed it.

After i get my torque wrench " tomorrow " I will be cleaning the head, sanding the surfaces, and torquing the nuts down after i remove the acorn head. Hopefully I will see nothing but improvement yet again.

You guys have been great help!

http://www.bikeberry.com/bbr-tuning-billet-intake-manifold.html
THe one i purchased above, and the one i received below

 

[jMrL]

I have been looking at a Wide Crank For my pedal's. I have done a few search's on the forums, finding a few that have added them to their bikes. WIth no discussion on which ones they purchased. I was just interested in seeing which ones you guys have messed around with and liked.
I find some ranging from 30$ to 80$ Do i need to spend close to 100$ to get what i need? I dont want ot skip out and get something ill regret later.

 

[jMrL]

I have a concern about my chain, I constantly check on the tensioner and make sure its not to tight or loose. I have noticed if i turn the wheel and check the chain it differentiates in between being loose and tight, its about a half inch to 3/4" of a difference in certain parts of the cycle. is this normal ?

 

[George Tirebiter]

The chain tensioners cause lots of problems and aren't always necessary. My Huffy works so much better since I got rid of it.

 

[jMrL]

Well I have thought of getting rit of it completely, But sadly It has a lil to much slack if im doing the calculations correct. I have ordered a aftermarket tensioner, THis should fix most of my chain sounds. I am hitting the frame that goes up from the tire some. It has a fade of scrapes on it. Nothing grinding. But bothersome to me, because i dont want it to happen. I have tried tightening my sprocket down. I spun my wheel and noticed one place it gets close, I have tried to compensate that for loosening the other side, or tighting that side. Nothing.

I have other news, I have replaced my spark plug and purchased 4 more NGK B6HS. So i can do a plug chop here soon. Also ive replaced my bolts for all my covers, to socket heads. I replaced my acorn nuts to USA hardware (SOON my studs) for my head studs, Finally got my torque wrench in and made sure it was tight. I took the head off to see how things where and i noticed i have a metal gasket, Is this as good as others? Should i make one on my own/replace?

But i am riding at 32:1 now and I have moved my slide needle to the 2nd from the leanest. Adjusted my float to make sure it was at 21mm, It seems to be going a lil faster, But i believe i am 4 stroking. I experimented and moved my slide to the very last. But i was bogging down at the start. Any ideas?

Any suggestions would be great for preventive maintenance and other stuff
Here is some pictures

 

[ZipTie]

Your chain can get tight and loose from the rear sprocket being off center a bit or these 415 chains get stretched pretty easy even possibly stretched in one section from the stress of bump starting? I am helping my son address that exact chain situation right now. We purchased a couple of 10ft lengths of 41 drive chain at Fleetfarm hardware for 20 bucks (will do 4 bikes) that is supposed to work well and be made way better than these cheap kit chains. They are labeled as pre-stretched too? He left for Dallas and Ill wait till next week for him to return to help me install this 41 chain on a couple of bikes. PITA to do by myself. Hopefully this fixes this tight loose situation as his sprocket is running true, so must be an irregularly stretched chain? Yes they pedal and run smoother and are very quite without a chain tensioner, however the challenge is to get pedal side chain and drive chain the proper tension without a tensioner on one side or the other. As I've said before chains separate the experts from the novice motorbike guys pretty quick.

 

[ZipTie]

As far a wider crank goes.. The 3 piece wide cranks run about 35.00 and are ugly as could be, but do work well if you need to add a lot of width to clear an exhaust. Huffy uses a one piece stock crank and I have no experience with the wider one piece types. If you just need a little muffler clearance just try to oval out the muffler mounting holes with a drill for and aft so the muffler can be mounted at a slightly different angle.
Depending on the new chain tensioner style you ordered some have super cheap springs that stretch out on first use during bump start, as the starting is where spring loaded tensioners can be a problem. lots of slack then bam its jerked. Beware of the chain being locked suddenly in the sprocket cover if not using a heavy duty spring. Ask me how I know. They work great for driving or pedaling but its the starting the motor is when they can fail/ Some guys love them some hate them, the controversy will never be solved I guess.

 

[George Tirebiter]

You could try removing a link or two. Sick bike parts have good head gaskets. Here is a link about 4 stroking. Good luck.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wzph3hL6EE

 

[jMrL]

So here is a shot of my plug.
Im guessing this is to dark? is the oily substance normal around the top of the threads?

Yeah ive watched that video before. I believe im getting some 4 stroking just because i can hear when it kicks in. Now this may have stopped to be honest b/c ive not heard this transition in sounds lately. Sense ive changed oil ratio and moved my slide pin. Im back at the 2nd from the bottom, just trying to get it to whined out more. Im getting a constant 19-21. I suppose this is about normal? Im just tinkering with the slide to see if it makes any changes. What are some things i can look for when my slide needs to go up or down ?
Also does the hub adapter, bring the sprocket closer to the spokes? I am getting a little rub on my back frame, I really want to stop this.

 

[Agreen]

Moving the needle only affects throttle up to 3/4 open. Anything higher than 3/4 open (i.e. fully open) has to be adjusted by changing the main jet size. This is easily done with a soldering iron (or a plumber's torch), some regular electrical solder, and a micro drill set. Solder the jet hole shut (only use a tiny bit of solder, otherwise you'll be drilling for days) and drill a new smaller hole.

If you're getting rubbing on the frame, move the tensioner closer to where it rubs.

 

[jMrL]

Moving the needle only affects throttle up to 3/4 open. Anything higher than 3/4 open (i.e. fully open) has to be adjusted by changing the main jet size. This is easily done with a soldering iron (or a plumber's torch), some regular electrical solder, and a micro drill set. Solder the jet hole shut (only use a tiny bit of solder, otherwise you'll be drilling for days) and drill a new smaller hole.

If you're getting rubbing on the frame, move the tensioner closer to where it rubs.

I researched micro drill bit on amazon and Im fiding .013 to .079 or #60g to #80g

http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Drill-0...id=1457820545&sr=8-8&keywords=micro+drill+set

http://www.amazon.com/Pit-Bull-CHID...id=1457820545&sr=8-1&keywords=micro+drill+set

http://www.micromark.com/20-piece-micro-size-drill-bit-set-with-index-61-80,6758.html

Is this something i need? Seems very iffy on the size charts. References would be awesome so i know im buying something that I can use.

 

[Agreen]

http://www.amazon.com/SE-Drill-Twis...457828843&sr=8-2&keywords=61-80+drill+bit+set

http://www.amazon.com/SE-Pin-Vise-S...=UTF8&qid=1457828951&sr=1-8&keywords=Pin+vise

That's (kind of) what I have. I haven't broken one yet, but I'm really careful and have a good feel for this kind of stuff. Just apply light pressure and take your time. Don't get impatient and try forcing the bit through. It won't like it.

I was able to find this stuff at a local hobby store. Not a craft store labled as a hobby store (I'm looking at you, Hobby Lobby). I think the standard size jet is either a 70 or 72. Try going to a 72 or 73.

 

[jMrL]

Thanks everyone for the post previously.

Today i watched a few videos on porting and such, I believe i understand more than i did before. My actions would be rounding off the edges of my intake and exhaust ports, Maybe making them wider as i do this? I also was reading about elevating them, but I will get to that more later, Also I was seeing that grinding off part of my piston so at complete TOP it will not be blocking my intake from achieving maximum gas input.

Can you guys tell me how Im doing with understand such actions please?

Today I also got down and dirty and experimented with taking things apart I took the head and cylinder off, noticing i had a faulty gasket, I made one out of a cereal box. Wow what a project their, It took about 30-45 mins, I was being very careful and precise. Due to not having but half of a gasket to trace. So i made a duplicate drawing of it also in case i ever need another .

I sanded down my head, and made sure all of the surface was flat. ( the against glass and sand paper trick ) Once i started putting things together I was like WTF my piston rings are broke. And i research Piston rings, :GULP: they all have the separation in them :yay: So after fighting getting the cylinder back on I put the exhaust and intake back on. Torque down the head and fire it up!.

It sounds like its more consistent in the RPMS. a more of a flow. So maybe i had a leak?

I notice that 1/2-3/4 throttle i have good pickup, but if i hold it wide open i dont get anything, maybe a little bit of BOG. Is this my jetting ? I have about 100 miles on it so far, So im just riding it until its good and broken in. Maybe this is natural.

Thanks for reading guys! any input is greatly appreciated.



:EDIT:

Oh ya! I took my plug out to look at the color, after moving my Pin up a notch last night. It does look more brownish, and the black is nearly not as much. :/ just a fyi. Im slowly getting it! and learning alot on the way!!

AND HAPPY DAY LIGHT SAVINGS hehe

 

[jMrL]

Is Silicone Gasket Maker, safe on heads, cylinders etc.. ? Ive never used it before Just curious if its easy to remove, and apply. I was going to get it for the use on my exhaust, It has a bowed end that came like that and causes my exhaust to leak. Im using Rescue tape atm, I just want a better fit untill i get a new exhaust. Thanks!

 

[ZipTie]

Is Silicone Gasket Maker, safe on heads, cylinders etc.. ? Ive never used it before Just curious if its easy to remove, and apply. I was going to get it for the use on my exhaust, It has a bowed end that came like that and causes my exhaust to leak. Im using Rescue tape atm, I just want a better fit untill i get a new exhaust. Thanks!

That stuff would only work to fill small gaps or it will just blow out the sides.
on a head or exhaust. It could be used in conjunction maybe with a metal gasket on heads but I personally wouldn't attempt to use it in any high pressure situations, but that's me.
The original exhaust gaskets have metal reinforcement to prevent blowout. Better to remove the muffler and straighten out the curved exhaust mount flange, by bending with love taps and then sanding on glass. You can search the forum for many threads on doing this. The exhaust gaskets could be doubled up by adding cutting an additional high temp thinner paper gasket sandwiched to the factory rubber one to help fill any leaking areas is still a problem.