replacing the rubber pineapple for non-CB wheels

[fatdaddy]

There are thousands of rag joints out there with millions of trouble free miles on them. I'm not totally against rag joints. I use them on almost every customer build. Most people don't want to spend the extra $60 or so to put one on. I have one of the HOWARD Adapters on my personal bike I installed a couple years ago and haven't had to touch it since. I just do the pre flight inspection a couple times a week to check for loose spokes, loose nuts and bolts, ect, ect, ect. But the HOWARD HUB ADAPTER is still hanging in there and still tight. NO WOBBLE in my sprocket AT ALL. He said a while back that he was going back into production again But haven't heard anything since. I'll try to contact him to see whats up. He uses the "OTHER SITE" SO I'll try to remember my password for the "OTHER SITE" and check it out.
fatdaddy.

 

[dtv5403]

The one drawback of the Howard adapters is that they only fit the older huffy hubs, which had quite a bit of space between the spoke flanges. Almost every other coaster hub out there is a shimano clone, which have less space between the flanges and won't fit. A buddy of mine had a Howard adapter and he loved it, but he had problems with the hub and when he replaced the hub, the Howard adapter no longer fit. He eventually bought a manic adapter, but it was a lot harder to get installed right and it kept slipping till he drilled and tapped it for set screws. I have a few good buddies who have built motorized bicycles over the years, and I've watched everything they've gone through with their bikes and I'm trying my best to avoid most of the problems they had. As far as wheels are concerned, I decided to build my own, having built a few wheels in the past for pedal bikes, I do have a little bit of experience. So I used a moped hub for the rear. The moped hub has 6 drilled and tapped sprocket mounting holes. No adapter, no rag joint, no messin' round. Bolt it right up and go. Its laced to a 24" bicycle rim with 11g spokes. The bike is nowhere near finished yet, but the rear wheel is one thing I'm proud to say I'm NOT worried about.

 

[fatdaddy]

The one drawback of the Howard adapters is that they only fit the older huffy hubs, which had quite a bit of space between the spoke flanges. Almost every other coaster hub out there is a shimano clone, which have less space between the flanges and won't fit. A buddy of mine had a Howard adapter and he loved it, but he had problems with the hub and when he replaced the hub, the Howard adapter no longer fit. He eventually bought a manic adapter, but it was a lot harder to get installed right and it kept slipping till he drilled and tapped it for set screws. I have a few good buddies who have built motorized bicycles over the years, and I've watched everything they've gone through with their bikes and I'm trying my best to avoid most of the problems they had. As far as wheels are concerned, I decided to build my own, having built a few wheels in the past for pedal bikes, I do have a little bit of experience. So I used a moped hub for the rear. The moped hub has 6 drilled and tapped sprocket mounting holes. No adapter, no rag joint, no messin' round. Bolt it right up and go. Its laced to a 24" bicycle rim with 11g spokes. The bike is nowhere near finished yet, but the rear wheel is one thing I'm proud to say I'm NOT worried about.

Yeah, The Howard only fits the coaster hubs, which I just happen to have. This is the first time I've ever heard of a problem with the MM adapter, But good to know there is a solution with the set screws. It sounds like you went the best way for your wheel, I don't think yer gonna have any wobble problems at all with your set up. I think I've got a couple moped hubs I'll now take a closer look at.
fatdaddy.

 

[dtv5403]

You may have to spread the rear dropouts just a bit because the moped hub might be on the wider side, I had to spread mine to get the moped hub in but that's not too big of a deal really.

 

[NeilJams]

Got my adapter and it fits, however there isnt much lateral play. Not my biggest concern though. I think there's rust on the sprocket bolts. Can I get some opinions please.



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[2door]

A wire brush will take care of that slight surface rust. Don't fret about it.
If you want to use a thread locking compound don't use the red stuff. Use nothing more than the blue Loctite on those fasteners.

Tom

 

[NeilJams]

I cleaned the bolts and there ok. There's still quite a bit of rust in the adapter holes though and it's thick, more than just surface rust. I've used CLR and gas, and there's still some rust. I'm gonna keep cleaning and hope for the best.

 

[fatdaddy]

I cleaned the bolts and there ok. There's still quite a bit of rust in the adapter holes though and it's thick, more than just surface rust. I've used CLR and gas, and there's still some rust. I'm gonna keep cleaning and hope for the best.

I don't see how there can be rust in the adapter holes, unless it came from the bolts. The adapter is aluminum and cant rust. Just clean it the best ya can, throw a little blue Loctite on it and yer good to go.
fatdaddy.

 

[GoreWound]

you may need to source longer bolts to do so, but if you do not have enough lateral play you can use some washers to shim the spocket out more, a serious advantage of this type of adapter.

also fo the rust inside the bolt holes you should be able to clear that out with a bottle brush and water. the clamshell is made of aluminum so any rust in there is just acumulated from off of the bolts.
just make sure everything is nice and dry before you put it back together, that rust on the bolts is probably from water sitting on them or the adapter during shipping.

 

[NeilJams]

I've got the sprocket on and it's true all away around, im happy with the adapter. I'm totally going to blue loctite it all down. Sorry for the delayed response I painted the bike and am still putting on the finishing touches.

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