To be honest I was planning on buying a kit an a upgraded carb expansion chamber exhaust, etc,etc. But I saw this an I new this would be the perfect starter!! FatDaddy I wish I was in Cali to I see a handful of these in my town but I see in the events section that Cali is like the mecca of motorized bikes!! I would pay to spend a weekend in your shop getting down an dirty an just learning the basics an ends n outs of these amazing machines. I think I will take your advice crassius an keep it on the bike. Just get HD tubes an new brake. Also FatDaddy I don't think I have a choice but to take the engine apart an lube clEan everything. Davezilla is helping me out an told me I can't get into the clutch until I hook up the clutch arm an bearing. So he advised an also all of you did was to clean what I can adjust tighten, an make sure everything is in semi good condition. An then for the best part.... RIDEEE. After that initial ride I'll have falling in love ( don't tell my wife lol) an wanna tear her all the way down an do her proper. I cannot wait tell tomorrow I get to spend all day on the bike so be on the look out for a million ?'s. Back to work. Talk to you all tonight.
please help!! I wanna buy this bike&engine tommrrow !!
- Thread starter mikeab13
- Start date
Did someone mention the 'zeal' of the first time builder?
xseler, I think.
And he's right. That actually is part of the reason that the rest of us are interested.
It's fun.
Also xseler thank you for Sheldon brown.com their is a lot of good info I never even knew or would think to know about bikes
I hear ya bluegoat! I can't even ride the bike Cuz the clutch is locked but if I could I would even without the motor. Because I know I will look good an everyone will want to ask about it!! I wish I would have found these forums sooner
Mike,
You can always take the engine drive chain off. There should be a master link that you can remove. That would let you ride the bike with pedal power until we get this clutch thing worked out for you. Remove the spark plug and rotate the rear wheel until you find the master link. Take it apart but don't loose the snap link or the side plate. You're gonna need them.
That would also give you an idea of how the rest of the bike works. Things like brakes and how it feels on the road.
Tom
You can always take the engine drive chain off. There should be a master link that you can remove. That would let you ride the bike with pedal power until we get this clutch thing worked out for you. Remove the spark plug and rotate the rear wheel until you find the master link. Take it apart but don't loose the snap link or the side plate. You're gonna need them.
That would also give you an idea of how the rest of the bike works. Things like brakes and how it feels on the road.
Tom
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I also agree that it CAN be done and if you got a $50 bike that needs a little help all you need to do is read up on everything and focus all your efforts into getting it running before trying to upgrade this or trick out that etc... just keep it stock for now and get it going... there are thousands of these bikes working just fine with the rag joint and these do work quite well once assembled correctly. These are put in the kits for 2 reasons...they're cheap, and they work. Yeah, there are better ways to do it but the rag joints work just fine... even in faster more powerful bikes they still work great... you can buy a manic adapter after you're up and running, right now we want to keep the price down and get it going.
once you get the clutch parts you can test it for spark and compression, if you got both then its time to mix up a batch of fuel and try to start the engine. As long as you got fuel, spark, and compression it should start, once it starts take it for short rides and stay close to home until you're sure it'll run reliably... it may need a bit more tlc but that's what we're here for...
once you get the clutch parts you can test it for spark and compression, if you got both then its time to mix up a batch of fuel and try to start the engine. As long as you got fuel, spark, and compression it should start, once it starts take it for short rides and stay close to home until you're sure it'll run reliably... it may need a bit more tlc but that's what we're here for...
Mike,
Check with us before you try to start the engine. There are some things we'll want to confirm before you do that. The chain tensioner is one area where you'll want to concentrate. Making sure it's aligned and tight so it doesn't roll into your rear spokes.
Good fuel flow, and gaskets that aren't going to leak and give you problems are two other things to watch for. Take some time to check the wiring connections from the ignition moduel, CDI, to the engine. Those push-on connectors aren't the best. We suggest soldering those splices and using heat shrink tubing over the solder connections. If you must rely on the push-on connectors for now make sure they are tight and can't fall apart. Insulate the white wire so it can't come in contact with any metal.
Proper chain and sprocket alignment is also very important. As Davezilla said, the rag joint sprocket adapter is a crude looking thing but properly installed can/will provide you with hundreds of miles of troublefree riding. If you need help or advice on the chain tension and alignment, just ask. We'll talk you thought it.
Tom
Check with us before you try to start the engine. There are some things we'll want to confirm before you do that. The chain tensioner is one area where you'll want to concentrate. Making sure it's aligned and tight so it doesn't roll into your rear spokes.
Good fuel flow, and gaskets that aren't going to leak and give you problems are two other things to watch for. Take some time to check the wiring connections from the ignition moduel, CDI, to the engine. Those push-on connectors aren't the best. We suggest soldering those splices and using heat shrink tubing over the solder connections. If you must rely on the push-on connectors for now make sure they are tight and can't fall apart. Insulate the white wire so it can't come in contact with any metal.
Proper chain and sprocket alignment is also very important. As Davezilla said, the rag joint sprocket adapter is a crude looking thing but properly installed can/will provide you with hundreds of miles of troublefree riding. If you need help or advice on the chain tension and alignment, just ask. We'll talk you thought it.
Tom
2door: I got a bucket took off the master link put the snap link and side plate as well as the chain in their. A lot of gunk an oil build up so tomorrow I'm going to store to get a solvent? What would you all reccomend on doing this. Also read on a post about chain matinence that after I get it clean an let it dry for an hour or so I should dip it in some clean motor oil? Or is their special chain oil to apply to keep it nice an running smoothly? Also smaller sprocket is pretty gunked as well should I hot it with simple green an a tooth brush as stated b4?
Davezilla I live in a apartment complex with a ruffly 3/4mile loop so I'm gonna ride it around here tell I get the kinks worked out before trying to drive it to work. Work is only 3-5 miles away but I don't wanna get stuck right in the middle lol though I do have neighbors an friends at work with trucks so it won't be that big a problem. I actually work at a retirement home with 500 residents an we have a pretty large patience department which is good because I've come into my first problem. Tools! But the head of the dept an I are pretty close. I always give him extra food in his Togo's so I think he wouldn't mind letting me use some soket Wrench's an anything else I would need exspecialy on my days off. Maybe they have some sort of solvent or grease remover.I'm going to have to take both wheels off tomorrow during cleaning to replace tubes. I've inspected tires an their seems to be good tread70% no dry rot an no visual holes or wires showing. Why kind of puncture resistant tubes should I buy? Would Walmart tubes be OK or as this is what's keeping my face from kissing the ground doing 15+ should I go to a local bike shop an invest in good tubes?
1 more question. When I have both tires off I will be checking spokes for them being loose or damaged but how should I lube the inside part were the tire and rim is connected to the frame?? Sorry I do not no the term for it though I have a good feeling someone's gonna correct me n fill me in!! Is their bearings,washers,etc in their that needs to be cleaned an checked? Can I use wd40 or should I use a special lube? Thanks guys.
Davezilla I live in a apartment complex with a ruffly 3/4mile loop so I'm gonna ride it around here tell I get the kinks worked out before trying to drive it to work. Work is only 3-5 miles away but I don't wanna get stuck right in the middle lol though I do have neighbors an friends at work with trucks so it won't be that big a problem. I actually work at a retirement home with 500 residents an we have a pretty large patience department which is good because I've come into my first problem. Tools! But the head of the dept an I are pretty close. I always give him extra food in his Togo's so I think he wouldn't mind letting me use some soket Wrench's an anything else I would need exspecialy on my days off. Maybe they have some sort of solvent or grease remover.I'm going to have to take both wheels off tomorrow during cleaning to replace tubes. I've inspected tires an their seems to be good tread70% no dry rot an no visual holes or wires showing. Why kind of puncture resistant tubes should I buy? Would Walmart tubes be OK or as this is what's keeping my face from kissing the ground doing 15+ should I go to a local bike shop an invest in good tubes?
1 more question. When I have both tires off I will be checking spokes for them being loose or damaged but how should I lube the inside part were the tire and rim is connected to the frame?? Sorry I do not no the term for it though I have a good feeling someone's gonna correct me n fill me in!! Is their bearings,washers,etc in their that needs to be cleaned an checked? Can I use wd40 or should I use a special lube? Thanks guys.
Yeah... if you can take your bike to work on your days off you might be able to talk the head of maintenance into letting you use some tools over there... is there a safe place you can keep the bike at your work? Preferably inside and out of site like in the maintenance room or garage? That would be your best bet as far as borrowing tools is concearned...
I'm seeing something that may be a potential problem with your front sprocket area...nit looks like part of the back of the case is broken off where the clutch cover assembly would bolt on... the cover bolts on with 3 bolts and it looks like the top rear part of that side may be broken off... we may need to switch to plan B.... let me know if you have all 3 bolt holes intact to bolt the clutch cover to...
I'm seeing something that may be a potential problem with your front sprocket area...nit looks like part of the back of the case is broken off where the clutch cover assembly would bolt on... the cover bolts on with 3 bolts and it looks like the top rear part of that side may be broken off... we may need to switch to plan B.... let me know if you have all 3 bolt holes intact to bolt the clutch cover to...
No you are correct. The two bolts closes to motor are their the one top right towards the back sprocket is broken off... Plan b?
The fuel linenyou need is 1/4", and pep boys or advance auto parts should have the fuel filters that fit that line for just a few bucks too... I thought I had an extra fuel valve at the shop but my spare tank didn't have the valve on it.... these are cheap on ebay...
Do me a favor and take a good pic of the back of your engine with a good left side view...
Do me a favor and take a good pic of the back of your engine with a good left side view...
Plan B is let me see if that junk 49cc engine I got has a good bottom end... if the bottom end is still good I can package it up and you will need to put your cylinder and piston on it... this would be a LOT easier than trying to swap out one case half... like I said before, that engine will just collect dust in my shop anyway...
Dave when I get paid I will send you a couple bucks man you have been nothing but on my side cents the beginning of this adventure. Were this good or do you need another angle?
Yup... I saw what I thought I saw... if you want that bottom end I'll make sure the rod and crank aren't messed up and its yours... you can just shoot me a paypal to cover the shipping whenever you can... lets get this thing built first tho...
If you install a clutch cover on that one with only 2 bolts it'll most likely crack the cover after a few uses... but I got that engine for free from a customer because we went with a new 66cc engine on his bike so I was just using it for spare parts but the cases and crank only fit the 49cc engines so I would never rebuild it... and its just what you need to fix yours the right way...
If you install a clutch cover on that one with only 2 bolts it'll most likely crack the cover after a few uses... but I got that engine for free from a customer because we went with a new 66cc engine on his bike so I was just using it for spare parts but the cases and crank only fit the 49cc engines so I would never rebuild it... and its just what you need to fix yours the right way...
Life has a way of putting people an things in your life to make it a little easier. I will most der cover the shipping I know it will be heavy now an cost more.