Just an update. I did not post the name of the vendor before because I wanted to give them a chance to do right about a damaged product. Well boygoesfast on ebay BLOWS!! I emailed those A holes four times. The email started off very tactful and lost that angle as I realized they would do nothing! I read past feedback for them and I guess if you are unlucky enough to receive a bad product they will do nothing to resolve it. They have done this with many customers from what I read in the feedback section. Oh well buyer beware with them. Anyway, I ended up picking up some jb weld due to the fact I am pretty tapped financially. I applied this yesterday and will take it out tomorrow for a test run (giving it a 24 hour plus cure time) . I do have a cnc alum muffler exhaust header which I am hoping will help with the heat of the muffler. The jb weld is rated to withstand heat of up to 500 degrees. I am wondering if I am in for a fail on this approach. Anyone know if a muffler heats up past 500 degrees a couple inches from engine with a header? Thanks for any info on this and watch out for the A holes at boygoesfast!!!
Not sure if JB weld is the best stuff for these but my expansion chamber stays cool to the touch after the first bend on the pipe. Mine is made from a KTM 50 pipe that was cut up and rearranged to fit on the bike and surprisingly the heat is only from the exhaust flange to about 7 or 8 inches up the pipe, but it also starts to taper out right at the flange so it really doesn't get that hot until it's been run really hard.
You can try the JB weld but be sure teh surface is really clean before applying it and give it plenty of time to set up, over night is best. It should hold as long as there's not a lot of vibration in the pipe and as long as the heat is elsewhere, apply it in thin layers also to prevent cracking.
The muffler putty might be a better idea depending on how much heat is in the area, but if it cracks from vibration you may need to resort to some Permatex Ultra Copper and let it cure overnight as well, this stuff can withstand at least 500 degrees and staye flexible. Either way, and no matter what you use, be sure the surface is Clean and free of all oils and grease, a can of carb and choke spray or brake cleaner is great at degreasing.
Another method for repairing holes in a pipe is to wrap the effected area with a single layer of thin steel wire like safety wire and then solder the wire to the pipe with silver solder, you'll need a propane torch to get it hot enough tho. This also works with brazing, but you'll need a hotter flame like mapp gas to make it work.
Just bring it on over, it's only a six hour drive 
