wheel wont spin

[2door]

First make sure your clutch cable is routed from the handlebar to the engine with no sharp bends or kinks. Make big radius bends to reduce friction. We also suggest to lubricate the cable inside the housing.

If you used the small spring that comes with the kit that is supposed to go on the cable between the guide and the clutch actuator arm, remove it, It doesn't do anything but make the clutch harder to pull. Use the larger spring. It is a heat shield.

Make sure the moving parts behind the cover are well lubricated as suggested above. The cam in the cover as well as the bucking bar that protrudes from the center of the sprocket and the ball bearing that is behind the bucking bar.

There is a modification you can do but try these suggestions first before we get into the mod.

Tom

 

[captain zeldacoon]

i do have the skinny spring installed because i thought i was supposed to i'll take it off and see if anything more needs to be done.

 

[captain zeldacoon]

its noticibly easier but still pretty tough

 

[captain zeldacoon]

ok its still tough to pull but after its pulled it doesnt take as much force to keep it pulled. im going to try to repair and improve the crappy little pin that is supposed to keep the lever pulled and i think that if i can do that it will be tolerable. i was just able to ride it around the block

 

[captain zeldacoon]

well the pin is fixed and even improved upon and i just pedalled around the neighborhood. all i need to do now is get some bigger drillbits so i can make the mounts in the exhaust pipe a little more lenient so i can put it on without blocking the pedals and get a fuel filter cause the kit didnt come with one. thanks a whole bunch for walking me through this everybody

 

[fatdaddy]

Lube everything. If possible, pull the cable out of the housing and apply a thin layer of grease to the cable. BUT if the cable is already freyed on the end you'll never get it back through the housing. Some say doing this will hold onto dirt, I've never had a problem. Oil will work, But wont slide as well as grease. A new rear brake cable and housing is only a couple bucks and works very well for a clutch cable. Also like everyone said, Grease the clutch arm. You can remove the cover AGAIN, Turn the arm untill it comes out, grease the arm, including the flat spot, then drop some oil on the lever,wherever it rubs, even a little. Put it all back together and I think you'll find things are easier.
And OH YEAH, a fuel filter is THE FIRST thing you should have done. About $3.00 at kragens small engine dept. The see through one, NOT the red one.
fatdaddy.

 

[2door]

The modification I spoke of requires some specialty tools but it is one that needs to be done to every 2 stroke, China Girl engine.

If you closely inspect the contacting surfaces of the cam inside the cover and the end of the bucking bar you'll see they are usually very rough and have sharp edges. That needs to be addressed. There is a lot of force applied to those surfaces when you disengage the clutch and the roughness increases the friction (clutch pull).

I use a Dremel with a sanding disc to smooth the ramp on the cam removing any sharp edge and the contacting surface. Same with the bucking bar. I don't remove much material or shorten the bar but I want that end where it touches the cam to be as smooth as I can get it. I also round off the end of the bar giving it a slightly hemisperical shape instead of flat. After sanding those areas with the Dremel I use my bench buffer and polishing compound to buff the areas where I sanded to a chrome-like finish.
I prefer grease as opposed to oil when reassembling the clutch actuating parts.
If you have the tools this mod will dramitacly decrease the clutch pull force required to disengage the clutch. All of mine can be operated with one finger, honestly.

Good luck.

Tom

 

[captain zeldacoon]

well i dont have the necessary tools, but should i ever come across them i'll remember to get that done. i just got a fuel filter today and finally got the muffler out of the way of the pedals. everything seems to be in order. im going to go buy a gallon of gas in a bit and see if i can fire it up

 

[2door]

well i dont have the necessary tools, but should i ever come across them i'll remember to get that done. i just got a fuel filter today and finally got the muffler out of the way of the pedals. everything seems to be in order. im going to go buy a gallon of gas in a bit and see if i can fire it up

Don't forget the oil!

Tom

 

[captain zeldacoon]

theres a little leak at the joint right between the gas tank and the petcock. is this normal and how do i fix it?

 

[fatdaddy]

theres a little leak at the joint right between the gas tank and the petcock. is this normal and how do i fix it?

there should be a small red ring gasket to seal that connection, if its still there just try screwing it a little tighter. carefull not to strip threads.
fatdaddy.

 

[2door]

there should be a small red ring gasket to seal that connection, if its still there just try screwing it a little tighter. carefull not to strip threads.
fatdaddy.

Good advice and if that doesn't stop the leak there is a product called SealAll that is made for gasoline leaks. It's available at most auto parts stores. Coat the threads and gasket wth it and tighten it up but as Fatdaddy said, don't overtighten it.

Tom

 

[captain zeldacoon]

thanks guys. i just tried starting it for the first time and the chain skipped a tooth on the sprocket and i came to a screeching halt. any reason why this would happen?

 

[2door]

Sprocket and chain alignment and chain tension. Something isn't lined up right or the chain is too tight or too loose. You'll want 1/2" to 3/4" of slack in the chain. The drive and driven sprockets MUST be aligned with each other too. The rear sprocket MUST be centered on the rear hub and installed with no wobbles.
Here's a diagram that might help.

Tom

 

[fatdaddy]

Sprocket/chain alighnment is the most critical part of the build. It has to be VERY, VERY close. Or your chain will continue to pop off. Tom is right AGAIN. He would have to be way off his meds to give bad advice.LOL
fatdaddy.

 

[captain zeldacoon]

ok. i'll see how that all lines up tomorrow. i think im done for the night

 

[captain zeldacoon]

i tightened the chain and pedalled around a bit this morning. i think im going to try starting the motor again after school today. i took some pics in case you guys see anything that looks blatantly wrong that i lack the expertise to notice

 

[fatdaddy]

i tightened the chain and pedalled around a bit this morning. i think im going to try starting the motor again after school today. i took some pics in case you guys see anything that looks blatantly wrong that i lack the expertise to notice

LOOKS GOOD BRO, The only thing I might do is lower the carb some. After all, it IS gravity feed. BUT if it works, Dont fix it is my motto.
fatdaddy.
After taking another look, It looks like the front mount isnt sitting flat and square on the front down tube, Is there a little gap on the bottom side of the front mount? Letting it ride on the edge of the mount will cut the frame. IT HAS TO BE TOTALLY FLAT on the frame. It will also put undo stress on the mount bolts and they will snap. I also noticed that the rear mount dont seem to come together flat. Loosen the mounts, bring the front of the motor up a little and the rear down a little, this should get both mounts perfectly flat on the frame and may reduce vibration.

 

[captain zeldacoon]

theres a little bump where a water bottle holder was mounted in the way. i didnt have a file to get rid of it with when i put the motor on but since then ive gotten one. i didnt bother removing it since i didnt know it was going to be a problem. i'll fix that and lower the carb when i get home

 

[fatdaddy]

Yeah, that dang water bottle mount, I set up a grinding wheel on my drill just for that. But really bro, The engine mounts GOTTA be flat and firm on the frame, front and rear. If you can get yer fingernail beyween it and the frame at all, It aint right yet.
fatdaddy.