When i let my clutch out the back tire locks up and skidds
- Thread starter i like to bike
- Start date
I was wondering that too.... It sounds like you (depending on how hard you hit it) you either broke something, or the rings were caught on something, either way, I would check the cylinder wall for any cuts. Congrats on solving the problem, but if you rode it out running, sounds like your good to go, but if you have way less power, it could be the rings.
it run pretty good but with just a little less power but its barely noticeable and i just hit it hard enough to move in down a half inch
hey sorry for hijacking...where can we get parts locally? like clutch pads and stuff...new to the motorbicycle world...did my first ride to day 25 miles...way too much fun...im building up a occ chopper motorbicycle (it has been sitting around for awhile....anyways is their a better place to try and find denver metro motorbicyclers?....meaning thread or something?
Sounds like a chain lock up happened to me the first few times I rode my bike, had to adjust the tension.
my back tire is frozen up. i just bought the bike.. rode it, rode fine, before i got it home was going up a incline an it seemed to be hesitant a bit .. but still was running no stalling or anything but now its frozen like locked when i stopped to carry it up to my apartment idk wa i wrong with it not that great of a repair person.
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Pulling the clutch lever pulls the actuator (the arm on top of the motor where the chain comes out) but wheel doesnt move = chain issue. Could be jammed up inside the motor (you'll have to remove the cover where the chain goes into the motor), or it could simply have slipped off the rear sprocket and bound up somewhere.
Pulling the clutch lever doesn't move the actuator, wheel doesnt move = cable issue. Cable is too lose, or came out of the actuator, if you pedal hard, you should still be able to crank the motor
Cannot pull the clutch lever = cable could be jammed inside the handle, or the clutch plate could be jammed up. check the cable, its the cheaper, easier alternative to fix.
Pulling the clutch lever doesn't move the actuator, wheel doesnt move = cable issue. Cable is too lose, or came out of the actuator, if you pedal hard, you should still be able to crank the motor
Cannot pull the clutch lever = cable could be jammed inside the handle, or the clutch plate could be jammed up. check the cable, its the cheaper, easier alternative to fix.
I like to bike: My 1st guess is a ring snagged in a port. If tapping the piston with a hammer freed it, beware that a sliver of metal may now be rattling around in the crankcase. That's a bad thing, it can cause all sorts of damage to bearings, rings, piston skirt/cylinder walls, etc... If it were me, I'd remove the motor, the head, jug & piston, then rinse the crankcase out with 2stroke mixed gas several times to wash out any shavings. While its apart, check the cylinder lining, port edges, piston sides & rings. If any of the ring lands are damaged, its junk. It may still run, but not for long, 2 tanks and you'll have excessive blowby & poor ring seal. A new piston may be needed if the ring lands are damaged.
If everything checks out okay, order you some new gaskets, buy a Dremil & grinding attachments, & research porting, something you can do while you wait for parts to arrive. The google search bar at the top is an awesome tool for this, try to learn as much as you can before you go to reworking your ports for more power & speed. If you remove too much material you cannot put it back, and aluminum is very soft so be careful! And good luck.
Nikkinunyuh: Your problem sounds like dry rear wheel bearings. Brand new bike? Did you get it from Wally World? Lots of those are assembled by minimum wage laborers who haven't been trained properly or don't care enough to use any grease. Your best bet would be to buy a complete wheel from a reputible bike shop & swap out your ragjoint & sprocket. Just as a reminder to all reading this, YOU NEED TO REGREASE YOUR AXLES & BEARINGS EVERY THOUSAND MILES (8-10 tankfuls of fuel). Traditional bicycle wheels aren't designed to spin as fast or as long as a motorized bike, and therefore require additional maintenance if we want them to survive. High sustained RPMs will cook the grease out till the bearings are metal-to-metal, destroying the bearings, hub, and axle cones. In 3 years of motorbicycling, I have gone thru 2 wheels, 3 sets of bearings, & snapped an axle in half! Now, every 3 months I tear down my back wheel & repack my bearings so I don't end up with this again:
If everything checks out okay, order you some new gaskets, buy a Dremil & grinding attachments, & research porting, something you can do while you wait for parts to arrive. The google search bar at the top is an awesome tool for this, try to learn as much as you can before you go to reworking your ports for more power & speed. If you remove too much material you cannot put it back, and aluminum is very soft so be careful! And good luck.
Nikkinunyuh: Your problem sounds like dry rear wheel bearings. Brand new bike? Did you get it from Wally World? Lots of those are assembled by minimum wage laborers who haven't been trained properly or don't care enough to use any grease. Your best bet would be to buy a complete wheel from a reputible bike shop & swap out your ragjoint & sprocket. Just as a reminder to all reading this, YOU NEED TO REGREASE YOUR AXLES & BEARINGS EVERY THOUSAND MILES (8-10 tankfuls of fuel). Traditional bicycle wheels aren't designed to spin as fast or as long as a motorized bike, and therefore require additional maintenance if we want them to survive. High sustained RPMs will cook the grease out till the bearings are metal-to-metal, destroying the bearings, hub, and axle cones. In 3 years of motorbicycling, I have gone thru 2 wheels, 3 sets of bearings, & snapped an axle in half! Now, every 3 months I tear down my back wheel & repack my bearings so I don't end up with this again:
Attachments
My area I'm lucky enough that Wal-Mart actually has the guy from the local bike shop come up and build the bikes... or at least they used to. Same with Sport Chek, but Sport Chek wont even let you ride the bike out of the store, you pay for it, then wait a couple days till the LBS guy has time to come set it up.
I have my bike locked up and its in the crankcase. any ideas of what it might be? She locked up on my a couple weeks ago. removing the jug reveled badly scratched wall and piston. Ordered new jug, piston, head, gaskets and a NGK. First I was sent to heads. bastards. finally got all the parts. wrist pin was lower on new pistion but head was a lil deeper so thought it would work. soon as I tried it locked up. found the upper ring cought on top of the jug. worked the old piston and installed it with the old head. still locks up. removed pistion and moving the crank up and down it freezes in random places as its rotating around. not just one place all the time. Anyone have an idea on what is it that's freezing up inside the crankcase ?
are you sure in the crankcase? Sounds to me like it's the small sprocket locking up, or the clutch gears. If it's sticking in one spot on the clutch wheel, it'll stick in 4 *nearly* symmetrical spots on the crank (it's ratio is 4.1, so it'll be a tiny bit more than 1/4 turn per lock). If it truly is random, I'd check your crank bearings, and see if the magneto isn't grabbing something. And finally if all that is good, check your gears on the other side, or even the wheel itself (if it's connected when it's locking up). These motors are simple enough that finding the issue should be easy. Splitting the crank case to find it shouldn't be a necessity.
This is my guess. Something in the crankcase, maybe needle bearings from the con rod.
Whatever, have you tried turning the engine upside down and seeing if anything falls out? Flushing it with fuel or solvent might flush whetever is in there out.
Tom