It ain't in the book. I ain't sayin' it. lol It's really not in there which surprises me. Thanks for the word!
29 inch cruisers
- Thread starter donb4103
- Start date
Ya, making one direct drive is a chore so I didn't, I just jackshafted the Onyx's brother the GX-7.I made one myself. It's not an "easy" build I'll admit, but the end product if done right looks like something off a line somewhere.
If you check out my build thread you can see some of the difficulties that come with the bike. Basically nothing fits, but with about 30$ extra you can find all the things you need at your local hardware store. The hardest thing for me to modify had to be the tank.
As mentioned these do not go together easy even with a JS kit, but that at least solved the extra spokes and fat tire problems as uses the bikes drive train.
To mount the tank I put the brackets on top of the bar, drilled a small hole in each into the top bar, taped threads into the top bar and screwed um down, then used the grinder to get rid of the extra tank stud protrusions.
I really wanted to black accent the motor, JS and mounting parts but the customer wanted as much 'chrome' as possible everything got silver high temp engine paint.
A note about high temp paint, I use PlastiKote engine enamel for everything I paint on a bike, even tensioners or brackets, the stuff goes on great and stays there.
I don't ride any motorized bicycle over 45 no matter how fast it will go but for riding that fast that was a good bike to do it on, everything about it seemed 'beefy' and other than the 'thigh burner' X-chamber I liked it a lot.
This is the bike That I'm thinking of getting, wanting to add the motor to make the bike more usable, not really looking for speed as it will only be used for putting around town. Is the JS kit referring to the drive going to the front sprocket?Ya, making one direct drive is a chore so I didn't, I just jackshafted the Onyx's brother the GX-7.
As mentioned these do not go together easy even with a JS kit, but that at least solved the extra spokes and fat tire problems as uses the bikes drive train.
To mount the tank I put the brackets on top of the bar, drilled a small hole in each into the top bar, taped threads into the top bar and screwed um down, then used the grinder to get rid of the extra tank stud protrusions.
I really wanted to black accent the motor, JS and mounting parts but the customer wanted as much 'chrome' as possible everything got silver high temp engine paint.
A note about high temp paint, I use PlastiKote engine enamel for everything I paint on a bike, even tensioners or brackets, the stuff goes on great and stays there.
I don't ride any motorized bicycle over 45 no matter how fast it will go but for riding that fast that was a good bike to do it on, everything about it seemed 'beefy' and other than the 'thigh burner' X-chamber I liked it a lot.
I'm still riding the black onyx. I'm trying to sell it already so I can get on to future builds. Other than that it's running beautifully. I'm going to take off the back wheel today and rework it's trueness. I learned how to true from YouTube a couple of days ago and I'm good at it already.
I just finished my own GX-7 build but am having some issues getting it to turn over. Fuel filter was on backwards, and fixed. I actually had it going last night and rode it around town for a good 20 minutes or so. I had no issues restarting it at all, so I know everything should be good. Even pulled pretty good over a steep overpass near me.
However, I let it get cold and now I can't get it to start again. Gave up for the night and tried it again this morning. NA DA!!! Checked all my connections, spark is there, but for some odd reason can't get it started. Choked or un-choked. Primed and un-primed. Are these things so problematic when new or cold? It sure seems so. 2 cycle oil is from Wal-mart. Perhaps I need to get some that is better quality?
Pulled the plug to let the compression chamber air out in case I had it flooded. No dice. Is the plug fouled? Plug was black and oily so maybe mixture is too rich? I'm considering ditching the original plug and going with a NGK B6HS as recommended elsewhere on this forum.
I've also read that the CDI can be problematic, and am wondering if I should replace that as well. Any recommendations on a quality CDI unit and where I can get one? Engine was bought from http://venicemotorbikes.com/ a vendor and poster on this site about a month or so ago. From what I have read, he seems to stand behind his products, but I don't think this is an engine issue.
I've been doing a lot of lurking and searching here. Trying this and that, but to no avail. I'm really getting discouraged and tired of pedaling to get this thing started. I don't know much mechanically except general stuff and my spidey-senses go off when I think I am getting in over my head. I've tried all my friends with mechanical knowledge and they either seem to be too busy or can't be bothered. I really wish there was someone nearby in Modesto Central CA that I could go to for help but I guess that is asking too much.
This engine is so close to running, should fire, but it's non-result is leaving me baffled. My plans are to use this bike to get around town until I can get something motorized that is better. I.E. I have no car. Regular bicycle is going to have to do until I can get this resolved. Did I mention I hate climbing overpasses? HELP!!!
What I want ......
What I have ......
However, I let it get cold and now I can't get it to start again. Gave up for the night and tried it again this morning. NA DA!!! Checked all my connections, spark is there, but for some odd reason can't get it started. Choked or un-choked. Primed and un-primed. Are these things so problematic when new or cold? It sure seems so. 2 cycle oil is from Wal-mart. Perhaps I need to get some that is better quality?
Pulled the plug to let the compression chamber air out in case I had it flooded. No dice. Is the plug fouled? Plug was black and oily so maybe mixture is too rich? I'm considering ditching the original plug and going with a NGK B6HS as recommended elsewhere on this forum.
I've also read that the CDI can be problematic, and am wondering if I should replace that as well. Any recommendations on a quality CDI unit and where I can get one? Engine was bought from http://venicemotorbikes.com/ a vendor and poster on this site about a month or so ago. From what I have read, he seems to stand behind his products, but I don't think this is an engine issue.
I've been doing a lot of lurking and searching here. Trying this and that, but to no avail. I'm really getting discouraged and tired of pedaling to get this thing started. I don't know much mechanically except general stuff and my spidey-senses go off when I think I am getting in over my head. I've tried all my friends with mechanical knowledge and they either seem to be too busy or can't be bothered. I really wish there was someone nearby in Modesto Central CA that I could go to for help but I guess that is asking too much.
This engine is so close to running, should fire, but it's non-result is leaving me baffled. My plans are to use this bike to get around town until I can get something motorized that is better. I.E. I have no car. Regular bicycle is going to have to do until I can get this resolved. Did I mention I hate climbing overpasses? HELP!!!
What I want ......
What I have ......
I'm not sure what a GX-7 is. Is it one of the 4 stroke motors? Either way, yeah, stock up on plugs for your engine, always a good idea, even if you rarely need them. You can test for spark by buying a pair of alligator clips and connecting them to a 6" wire, then clipping the threads of the plug, to some metal surface. Pedal the bike and watch for spark when engine turns over.
Did you put too much oil in the fuel, if it's a 2 stroke? That will clog fuel filters, foul plugs, and contribute to hard starting.
If you spray some fuel in the carb throat and it starts momentarily, then you have some kind of other problem, but can tell the engine is "running".
Did you put too much oil in the fuel, if it's a 2 stroke? That will clog fuel filters, foul plugs, and contribute to hard starting.
If you spray some fuel in the carb throat and it starts momentarily, then you have some kind of other problem, but can tell the engine is "running".
This may sound like a Homer Simpson thing but when you finished your ride did you turn the gas valve off?
If so did you remember to turn it back on for the next ride?
If not and your carb tilts forward a bit you may have flooded the crankcase.
Pull the plug and pedal it around to get all the raw fuel out as chances are if it ran dandy and won't even start next try it's fuel.
I like the 29" cruisers. When I first heard of 29er mountain bikes, I wasn't really a fan. They are popular here (Northeast Texas) for single-track offroad riding. I still prefer the conventional 26" mountain bikes. The 29" cruiser seems awesome though, especially for a motor assisted bicycle. I had 700c (same size, but the 29ers take wider tires, have heavier rims usually) hybrid bike for my last Dax Friction Drive build. Traction was an issue sometimes. I'd like a 29" cruiser with the Dax Friction Drive. I think 29 street tires or beach tires ought to do great with the rollers, and dual v-brakes are good for me.
I'll have to look into those bikes (GX07). If they are under $250 I might get one, and give my wife back her bike as a pedal bike, since she's not really interested in the motor and pretty much let me take over it. haha.
I'll have to look into those bikes (GX07). If they are under $250 I might get one, and give my wife back her bike as a pedal bike, since she's not really interested in the motor and pretty much let me take over it. haha.
I looked at the Wongmart 29er. Not bad for $150. It would need the usual treatment (tear down and grease everything, properly adjust all fasteners, discard or reinforce the fenders, add front brake). The stem and handlebars look like the weak point, but should be passable for a light rider (150lb). If you run an adjustable stem, be sure it's locked in good, and with locktite! Or sell it on Fleabay and get a normal stem. Looks like a good candidate for a 25mph bike via Dax Friction Drive. 29" tires are cheap enough at Niagara Cycle.
What's with the fake oversize headset? the head tube is huge, and there is a large dust cap, but it appears to be a 1" threaded fork and stem? Is the dust cap just covering a standard cone and locknut setup?
With a v-brake compatible fork or adapter, the bike looks ok for putting around. I like it.
What's with the fake oversize headset? the head tube is huge, and there is a large dust cap, but it appears to be a 1" threaded fork and stem? Is the dust cap just covering a standard cone and locknut setup?
With a v-brake compatible fork or adapter, the bike looks ok for putting around. I like it.
I have just done 2 of the 29" Astra models (7spd silver version of yours). I actually put 4 strokes in both of them. They cruise nicely I admit. I won't do another one, way too much time needed for that monster. I returned the 3rd 29er sitting in my garage. Just out of curiosity, I see you only have a coaster brake. How do you stop that thing?
can you tell me how you mounted the rear sprocket ? I'm building my first kit and I can only get three bolts to go through the sprocket and clear. how did you do it ?
thanks
thanks
Since its your first kit, the first thing I will mention is to make sure the sprocket is centered. You can do so by cutting some thin metal (I used metal from spare vent tubing) and place it circular between sprocket and hub. As far as the bolts are concerned, I skipped every third bolt. After bolts were semi tight I went back and muscled the ones I skipped.
thanks for the reply. I cant get but two bolts to go in and they aren't even straight. All of the other holes hit the spokes. The sprocket fits perfect with the hub - perfect match. SO, what I'm going to do is to mark the sprocket while it is on the bike - to where the opening in the spokes are, then take it off the bike, bolt ALL pieces together and then match drill new holes with a drill press. then it outta fit like a glove. the new holes will be as close to the hub as I can get them but just a tiny little bit further away from the hub as the original holes. whatta ya think ?
I think you'll find you can get 3-6 bolts through if you rotate the sprocket but don't use stock bolts with less than 9, get so case hardened ones with matching good nylon lock nuts.