Throttle issues?

J

Jesse_James

New Member
When I first run my bike I get good performance for the first 10 seconds at full throttle but then I start to lose power afterwards sometimes even stalling out (while still on full throttle) why is this?
 
Sounds like maybe your float level is too low in your carb.

Good luck in sorting it out!!
 
Jesse- Is your engine broken in? Is your throttle linkage operating freely? Is your fuel clean? Filter? Check for air/fuel leaks at carb, fuel lines etc. Take the float bowl off your carb, and check your float for adjustment and leaks. Reset your fuel screw as you did the first time you started your bike, and tune accordingly.

The more info you give these folks the quicker, better answer you'll get :)
This is a pretty common question from what I see, and there's plenty of info here about how to handle it- good luck!
 
Its a 2 stroke 66cc Stinger engine. Fuel screw is that the screw that drains the carb? That screw was replaced by another screw reason being that it was leaking gas. I messed around with the idle screw a bit too much could that be a reason? What about the kind of gas I am using? I am using regular gasoline should I use a higher octane?
 
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okay 87 octane is only needed. Use regular 2stroke oil for air cooled. Don't use any marine oil at all. Mix the oil and gas at 20 to 1 or 24 to 1 what ever you want to use for 2 or 3 tanks until break in then go to 32to1 and stay there. I think the problems is here loosen the gas cap and try running it if it gets better drill a small hole in the top of cap. These gas cap are suppose to be vented but there's and lot of them that don't work .Try that for now.
 
I also notice when coming to a stop (red light stop sign)and pulling the clutch in is when the engine goes into a high rpm I mean really high rpm so I always have to use the kill switch to stop.

If I did use a high octane gas would it hurt the engine?
 
no high octane won't hurt but why when 87 is all it needs. Well check for air leaks is the high Idle problem. Start engine get a can of carb cleaner and spray around carb intake if idle raises there's you leak fix them and she will run better. The carb intake is the biggest spot for leaks and both ends check them.
 
Jesse_James said:
I also notice when coming to a stop (red light stop sign)and pulling the clutch in is when the engine goes into a high rpm I mean really high rpm so I always have to use the kill switch to stop.
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while the clutch is pulled in is the time that the idle screw should be adjusted
 
Jesse- type in the search bar above "carb pictures how to" and you will find everything you need to know, by a fella named Norm.

Thanks Norm!
 
I would think the kit you got has the right airfilter for the carb.

I'll mention this anyway.

I just know I mixed different model and brand airfilter on a carb. The engine did stall out with throttle up. Trying to save and reusing parts I had this happen.

With the belt drive removed I did this. Just to see in non-windy dust free location, I ran short test without filter and ran fine.

I eventually got some used filter holder from Ebay that matched the carb for cheap. I got new prefilter and paper airfilter and it runs fine now.

The foam airfilter seems it has less flow rate and was good on the carb it was made for, but choked at high speed throttle the new carb I got that I needed for a gravity feed fuel system.

MT
 
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wan37 said:
no high octane won't hurt but why when 87 is all it needs. Well check for air leaks is the high Idle problem. Start engine get a can of carb cleaner and spray around carb intake if idle raises there's you leak fix them and she will run better. The carb intake is the biggest spot for leaks and both ends check them.
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I tried starting the bike today and I couldn't get it started at all. The engine turned over and I had spark. I sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb and it worked for about 10 seconds then stalled. Then I used the cleaner again and after multiple times of doing that process it worked. I also pushed the choke lever upwards and it worked fine which confuses me because I thought the choke lever was supposed to be down for normal operation.
 
Toadmund said:
Before you look for air leaks, make sure your throttle cable isn't too tight.
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I am still new to this stuff. I am clueless on how to adjust the throttle cable from the top of the carb and I don't even know if I fit the needle, the spring, and the big round plastic piece into the carb the correct way when I screwed it back together after spraying carb cleaner into the carb.
 
It's better to have your throttle cable a bit slack than too tight, it's best to have it just right, not tight, not slack.
At your hand lever, there is a screw that your cable goes in and a nut, screw the nut towards the head of the screw, then screw the screw all the way in, do the same at the carburetor.
That will give your cable total slack and you can adjust it from there.

Watch this

Jesse_James said:
I sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb and it worked for about 10 seconds then stalled. Then I used the cleaner again and after multiple times of doing that process it worked. I also pushed the choke lever upwards and it worked fine which confuses me because I thought the choke lever was supposed to be down for normal operation.
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Your not getting enough fuel, you may have to adjust your float, or you have some dirt in there, possibly partially clogging your jet. When your choke lever is up you are partially blocking air intake which makes the engine suck in more fuel than air.
 
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Jesse_James said:
I am still new to this stuff. I am clueless on how to adjust the throttle cable from the top of the carb and I don't even know if I fit the needle, the spring, and the big round plastic piece into the carb the correct way when I screwed it back together after spraying carb cleaner into the carb.
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Jesse, the answers to your questions have been laid out in an easy to follow step by step process by a senior member who KNOWS HIS STUFF. I gave you the info six days ago, and you could have literally learned to rebuild this carb by now. Was it the wrong info for you somehow? Don't mean to give you a hard time, I just don't see why you haven't taught yourself. This guy feeds his family with the knowledge that he has freely given to us to take advantage of. Let me say again, I'm not giving you a hard time. Man some of the things I do are just silly- didn't know what that search bar WAS for my first month or so on this site!
I wish you the best of luck with your bike.
 
Airleak or other causes causing mixture to be too lean. Tons of help already posted here for you to reference. Good luck.
 
Thanks guys I got the bike running today but not 100%. The problem was an airleak from the manifold that was going from the carb to the engine the nuts were lose. Now another problem dealing with the idle is that it revs up REALLY high rpms when at idle either that or the engine stalls when pulling the clutch in. I gotta try to figure this out because I don't want the engine to shut down or rev up really high everytime I come to a stop.
 
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