I am kinda new at this and this may seem like a stupid question, but the screw on the side of the card is that for the setting the idle? Looking at the pictures my plug looks good?? I will try to float trick with killing the gas. I am wondering while it will rev with help and then stay there after the hill?
You're doing fine, we all have to start somewhere....
Before I go deeper into how the carb operates I should mention that it is possible your problem with bog at WOT may be caused by slow flow of fuel from your tank. Sometimes the gas cap doesn't vent properly and restricts flow, so loosen your gas cap a bit and ride WOT and see of the bog goes away. (thats the easiest possible situation) Also, the fuel tanks usually have lots of crap in them that can clog the fuel filters (I always clean mine out before I use them). So make sure the fuel filter in the end of the fuel valve (that goes into the tank) isn't clogged. I didn't like that fuel valve and filter setup so I bought a better fuel valve (from SickBikeParts.com) and use an inline fuel filter instead. This gives me great fuel flow and I can see it in the filter so I don't have to guess...
The carbs generally have two screws, one for setting the idle and the other for setting the air mix. The idle screw simply holds the slide in the carb open a bit to rev the motor and set the idle, the further you screw in the idle screw the more the slide is opened the faster the motor idles (its just like twisting the throttle a tiny bit). Once the idle is set the air mix screw should be adjusted to where the motor idles the fastest. The idle and mix screws only really effect the way the motor runs at idle and at very low RPM, once you are at mid throttle or higher these adjustments have no effect on how the motor runs.
If you're new to carbs it takes a bit to wrap your head around what is going on, at least these carbs are about as simple as they get. Basically, when the piston goes down it causes a suction that draws air through the carb and fuel up through the jet to mix with the air. There are a multitude of factors that determine how much air and fuel get drawn into the motor, which makes up your "mix". The main factors being the jet size, the float setting (how high the fuel level is in the carb bowl) and how much resistance the air filter and exhaust are posing to the flow of air through the motor.
Tuning a carb is not done in one step, the carb has essentially three ranges of operation and there are ways to tune each range for optimal performance. The three ranges and parts that tune them are:
WOT: At WOT the main jet size and float setting have the most effect on the mix, as well as how air is flowing through the motor due to the air filter and exhaust. To tune at WOT you adjust the float setting, adjust the size of the main jet, and/or adjust the amount of resistance the air filter or exhaust is posing to air flow. It's a balance of these factors that set your mix at WOT. WOT tuning should always be done first since any changes to this balance will effect how the motor runs in all throttle ranges.
Mid throttle: Once the WOT tuning is set you set the mid throttle mix by adjusting the e-clip setting on the needle. If you move the clip up (away from the pointed end that goes in the jet) the needle sits further in the jet and restricts the amount of fuel drawn from the jet more, thus leaning out the mix. If you move the clip down the needle comes further out of the jet allowing more fuel to flow making the mid throttle range more rich.
Idle/Low RPM range: At idle the slide is nearly closed, the needle is deep in the jet and so air and fuel flow are greatly restricted. The idle screw props open the slide a little allowing a bit of air and fuel to flow. The air/mix screw allows air to flow through a separate passage to let your motor breath a little. The idle and air mix screws only effect the tuning at idle and in the very lowest throttle range.
Understanding this it is easy to see that your motor may be running in a couple different conditions depending on the throttle range. For instance, if you're lean at WOT you could set the e-clip low to richen the mid throttle mix, your motor might be running fine mid throttle but running lean and hot at WOT. This is the reason you do a "plug chop", it's like getting a snap shot of whats going on in the motor at the very moment, 'cause if you ride home at mid throttle and kill the motor then inspect the plug it might look fine (in the above example), but if you do a plug chop after running WOT it might look hot and lean.
Hope I didn't confuse you, just trying to get you caught up with the basics so you can understand this better...
If you have the CNS carb then you have an extra enrichment jet (referred to as the choke). With this carb you can simply run into the throttle range you are concerned with and open up the enrichment jet for a bit. If the condition worsens you are probably already running too rich, if the condition improves then you are probably too lean since the extra fuel from the enrichment jet improved the situation. Ultimately it's always a good idea to keep an eye on your plug to make sure your not running too lean and hot, 'cause that can cause you to burn up your motor prematurely.
