Im installing my 4G T-belt transmission on my 142f motor, but the belt pulley wheel keeps scraping the side of the clutch bell causing it to not turn properly. Is my clutch not installed correctly? Its the keyed shaft motor and maybe i didnt put the key in the right way? I need help pronto!!!
I need 4G trans help!!!
- Thread starter jliveit
- Start date
How about a few pics of your problem?
Is the belt tight?
What is the belt size? Should be a 5M570 if you have the 100 tooth pulley.
Did you remove the the 100 tooth pulley? It has a wider flange on the inside.
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Loosen the 4 screw/bolts behing the large pulley then get a screwdriver and rotate the cam.
Doesnt that just move the pulley up and down? I have already tried that with the special tool thing that it comes with
Alright. How exactly do you get the pulley off because it came put together from bicycle-engines.com, and when i take off the nut and washers on the front it looks as if there is some sort of pin or something?
I would contact bicycle-engines.com and advise them of the situation. See what they want to do before you start tearing things apart.
Here's a link to Grubee's website for the 4G:
http://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/4G/4G V frame Instructions.htm
Good Luck,
Chris
AKA: BigBlue
Here's a link to Grubee's website for the 4G:
http://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/4G/4G V frame Instructions.htm
Good Luck,
Chris
AKA: BigBlue
Okay i will call them tomorrow. What is the major difference between the 100T solid pulley and the 80T freewheel? Is one better than the other?
Remove 4 bolts behind pulley take your tool rotate cam and put screw back in.Freewheel will have to be welded to work properly. You probly have a 11 th freewheel sprocket.You will need some type of freewheel to be able to pedal normal.
I have the new 12t freewheel sprocket, and I thought that was supposed to eliminate the whole one way bearing problem?
Any freewheel bearing should be welded to a solid non freewheel.They all will fail..some sooner then others.The 12t is probly the best they have made so far.The 80t oneway bearing is the worst.
I'm having the same issue you had with the bell housing scraping the pulley on a new kit. Did you ever find a solution or does anyone else have a solution? Thanks
It is common for the scraping with the bell rotor and the 100t pulley on this kit. I have found you have to use the cam tool to tighten the belt just right to get the scraping to a minimum. Then after some miles it will get quieter as the metal on metal contact wears a little bit. Also change the half key for the clutch immediately. It helps with the chatter when clutch engages on take off. The key shipped with this kit is weak and wears quick. allowing the clutch to have movement on the shaft. It will still chatter with the new key, but not as bad. I did not change the key and within 100 miles it was unbearable. I also found adjusting the valves to .006/.008 from .004/.006 smoothes out the chatter from take off as well. Must be something with the torque curve, I am guessing less power at 2100 rpm where this clutch engages, allowing for smoother engagement. Good luck, you have a good kit, just have to tinker a little.
Thanks for the advice. I ground down the lip on the 110 t pulley and put a washer behind it to move it out a bit which stopped the rubbing. I put my first 10 miles in today on my first build...fun ride and nothing fell off!!
