New Flying Horse 80 kit

GoldenMotor.com

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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This is the Atomic BB with it's new Flying Horse 80 motor. Kind of reminds me of woody woodpecker for some reason.

 
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biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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Dallas
Did you paint the jug and head yourself or did it come that way?
Yeah, I removed all the covers, and the cylinder, for inspection. I decided to paint the head red, just for a change. I painted the cylinder, and the covers black, and left the block silver..
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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anything other than that ? are the mega motors the same quality as the flying horse motors. or are some of the parts used cheaper?
This is just my personal opinion. I think the flying horse are a little better quality, but the skill of the assembly workers is about the same, and that's not very good. Every factory just seems to throw these engines together. It's hard to guess which part they'll screw up, so no matter what motor you get it's important to check it over pretty throughly.
Oh yeah, I forgot probably the most important difference from most kit's.

The piston clears the intake port completely. No trimming needed. The Piston assembly is lighter than most too. Japanese crank bearings.

It could be argued from this, that Flying Horse engines are better engineered than other motors. Unfortunately they're not better assembled though.
 

maurtis

New Member
Dec 14, 2011
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Kyle, TX
Oh yeah, I forgot probably the most important difference from most kit's.

The piston clears the intake port completely. No trimming needed. The Piston assembly is lighter than most too. Japanese crank bearings.

It could be argued from this, that Flying Horse engines are better engineered than other motors. Unfortunately they're not better assembled though.
Sounds like a winner to me!

And gotta watch out for those redheads, I hear they can be feisty!
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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Dallas
This was the first compression test with zero miles.

I struggled to get 68 psi. First try was 62 psi. I whipped the hamster to get 68. The motor wasn't hot, just a little warm to the touch. It'll be interesting now, to see how much the compression changes, if any, over time.
Now it has 51 miles.

After 2 tries with the compression tester I saw 76 psi with a cold 102 degree motor. First try was about 73 psi

New motor..68 psi
51 miles.....76 psi
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
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Dallas
how many times are you spinning the engine over on the comp test ? how much doese it pump on the first hit ?
I'm peddling it as fast as I can, down the street to test the compression. I think I'm getting up to at least 8 mph. I calculate that's slightly less than 2000 rpm.

Wide open throttle, and don't forget to hold the kill button in. Peddle harder. No matter how fast you go, once it gets as high as it's going to go, it doesn't change after that. It doesn't take very far to max out the pressure.

I use a couple of wire ties to hold the guage up.
 
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biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
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Dallas
This evenings ride in the 95 degree outside temperature, I was seeing cylinder head temperatures between 265 and 300 degrees cruising on mostly level streets, and keeping the speeds below 28 mph.

The motor now has 70 miles on it.

After it warms up, it runs and sounds great. Not much piston slap. I'm running it most of the time about 25 mph which is 5400 rpm. I've had up to 6000 once, for a second or two. That was by accident riding in the dark. 6000 would be 28 mph.

This motor has good bottom power. When you give it full throttle from about 3000 rpm the intake growls like a moped. The air cleaner, and bigger carb makes the intake louder. It helps that my exhaust is pretty quiet. 3000 rpm is about 14 mph.

 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
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Dallas
I went on about a 30 mile ride today. It was running good the whole time. Seems like I got about 80-90 mpg cruising about 22-25 mph. Running 22:1 mix. It 102 outside today. After I got home I let it cool off, and went for a ride later when it was a little cooler outside.

It was running really good in the cooler air. It has 110 miles on it now. Tomorrow I'll check the compression again. I bet it will be a little higher than last time.
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
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Dallas
I'm up to 197 miles now.

A problem started happening. Twice yesterday. The first time was I was riding to the hardware store, 2 miles away. I was about 1 1/2 miles into the ride, when it lost power. I was going about 32 mph at the time. Only around 6000 rpm. It sorta lost a little power for a 1/2 second, and then all the fire went completely out. I tried to restart peddling but no fire at all. I started peddling in the 105 degree heat. That got old in about 1/2 a block. I tried to restart it again, and after a few revolutions it popped a couple times and started. I made it the rest of the way to the hardware store seeming running ok. I was only inside a couple of minutes. When I tried to restart and head home, it doesn't want to start. I had to peddle about 40 yards before it started. I almost gave up. By now I was pretty paronoid so I headed straight home, but keeping the speed down. I didn't have any more problems on the way home.

Later I rode around the block a couple times, and it ran fine. Then I did it again, and it ran fine.

So now it's about 10 pm. I want to ride. My tanks are full. I take off in the dark. It's running fine. I'm heading due east. A few minutes later I'm about 6 miles from the house. I'm cruising about 33 mph downhill on a big street, in light traffic. Bam, the fire goes out. I peddle onto a side street. I'm thinking maybe by now I've somehow used 1/4 gallon in about 12 miles, but no there still plenty of gas in the tank to run the motor.
I start peddling up and down on the side street. No fire, No fire, No fire. I guess I better start peddling toward home. Evey so often I try a restart, but no fire. I'm now 6 miles from home. The hill I just ride down is too steep to peddle up, so I'm walking. At least the Atomic BB is a lot easier to push then my Sportster. When I got to the top I started peddling again. I got about a mile from where it died, and this time it started. I made a bee line for home at reduced speed, and made it the rest of the 5 miles with no problem.

The spark plug looks pretty good considering 22:1 ratio.

I'm thinking the CDI is going poop dog.
 

dracothered

New Member
Jul 25, 2012
973
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0
Howell, MI.
I had an issue with a Kawasaki 500 like this before it would be going along fine and the the fire would just die. Never did chase down what was causing it, but I always suspected it was a heat related issue with the wiring. It would always restart after a few minute on the side of the road with the seat up to let air at the main wire harness.

So to me it sounds as if your CDI is having a heat stroke on you or some other wiring issue. Check ever connection and if you even think it might be back fix it. If you can soldier then soldier all your connection together as they will work better and be less prone to fail.
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,653
475
83
Dallas
I forgot to mention the cdi on my bike is about a year old. I didn't replace it when I put the new motor on.

So I took it off and installed a different one. This one is used too, but known good. After installing it I went for a ride. It started up fast, and seemed to run a little better than before, especially when cold. After 3 cold starts my impression is it seems to run better than before during warm up. Full hot operation seems the same as before. I've put about 10 miles on it since I changed the cdi, and it hasn't had a problem yet.

The problem is, I changed the spark plug at the same time. When I looked at the stock chinese spark plug, it already showed signs of wear in only 200 miles. I installed a new BP6HS, so that could account for running differently during warm up.

There's not much to the wiring. The ends of all the wires are soldered, but not together. They're connected with 2 wire nuts, and a wire tie. I like it that way because it's easy to work on, but normally I never have to.

I checked the kill switch. There's no continuity to ground, and when you push the button, the switch goes to zero ohm. I don't think the switch has a problem.

I ohmed the magneto coil cold @ 36 ohm. I guess a coil could have a intermittent short that only shows up when it's hot. If the cdi doesn't fix it, that's the next part I'll replace. This magneto is the new one that came with the motor.

There's no white wire.

I'm optimistic it's fixed now, but a little paranoid to get very far from home. That won't last long if keeps running though, because I like to ride the range.

I'm going through the third gallon now @ 22:1. So far I've been breaking it in on Torco synthetic 2 stroke oil. I know you're not supposed to, but it's been over 100 degrees everyday. I'm going to bump it up to 34:1 on the next gallon or two, and after that I'll probably go back to 40:1 red line synthetic. These are both premium synthetics, so I expect breakin to take a long time.
 

dracothered

New Member
Jul 25, 2012
973
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Howell, MI.
Is your CDI below the engine, if it is you may want to move its location or put a heat shield between it and the engine. I don't know how much heat can come off the bottom end of these little engines, but it will shorten the life of electronics.