All My Motors Stalled!!

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nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
1,180
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USA
OK, so this mystery finally got my attention!

Do you have 2-stroke or 4-stroke motors???

If you have 2-stroke where exactly in the MOTOR are you pouring the oil?

To be clear, with a 2-stroke motor you MIX the oil into the GAS, with a 4-stroke motor you pour the oil into the block. It's one or the other...

Reading this thread it seems to indicate you have a 2-stroke kit, but then you clearly say you poured oil into the block?

IMHO the best thing for you to do is give the most honest and accurate information to the good folks in the forum and they will help you figure things out. If you dance around the details we are at a loss to help you, and people will soon tire of it. If you don't know exactly what type of motor you have then the best thing to do is post a few pictures...

Good luck to you with your bikes....
 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
16,302
175
63
Littleton, Colorado
The OP stated that his instructions indicated a 16:1 mix. That alone tells me he has a 2 stroke and by now we all know why his engines failed.

2 stroke engines require that the oil be mixed with the gasoline, not poured into the engine case. Maybe engine number five will have a better life. We can only hope.

Tom
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
he said his tires locked up each time, so most likely they are all seized. it could be the clutch sticking, or he could have opened them up too quickly, overheating and seizing the pistons.
 

tarmack09

New Member
Jul 9, 2012
8
0
0
Madera CA
OK, so this mystery finally got my attention!

Do you have 2-stroke or 4-stroke motors???

If you have 2-stroke where exactly in the MOTOR are you pouring the oil?

To be clear, with a 2-stroke motor you MIX the oil into the GAS, with a 4-stroke motor you pour the oil into the block. It's one or the other...

Reading this thread it seems to indicate you have a 2-stroke kit, but then you clearly say you poured oil into the block?

IMHO the best thing for you to do is give the most honest and accurate information to the good folks in the forum and they will help you figure things out. If you dance around the details we are at a loss to help you, and people will soon tire of it. If you don't know exactly what type of motor you have then the best thing to do is post a few pictures...

Good luck to you with your bikes....

I have 4 engines total, all are 2 stroke 80CC motors. One is a china gas engine I got from an Ebay user in Canada. The parts are kinda different in size on that one compared to the other ones. That was the first one to stall. That one I used the proper oil mixture until it stalled. However it did stall after filling up at the gas station about 2 miles down the road. Still that shouldn't be a reason for it to stall right away. The other 3 are 2 stroke 80CC Raw Motors.

When I said I poured the oil into the engine block on one of the engines I'm talking about the part behind the piston head. Not on top of the engine. I should say basically into the engine compartment itself. This should still be considerd untested and the engine did die on me later...I did this to keep the engine cool and lubed. I believe I still went back to using the proper oil mixture with this one aswell.. So still no reason for it to die on me.

So.. yes very hard for me to deal with all of these engines going out right now. Plus someone stole some of my parts off the bike... not to mention other problems with having to bend the tail pipe that came up later.

I swear purchasing power in America is god awful right now! This country is going to ****! I originally wanted to buy the beach Cruisers and engines to fit all from one site..but they didn't ship to California. Anyway..

Please give me your input on what you think might fix this stalling problem.
 

dragray

New Member
Mar 10, 2012
278
2
0
Indiana
I poured the oil directly into the engine block behind the piston head. I did this in a very liberal fashion. It lasted longer then all the other engines only stalling when I adjusted the idle screw on the carb. It was kinda bottoming out when I was comming to a stop so I wanted to adjust it.. then It hasn't started ever since. totally died on me. I might drain this one out and try to start it up again.. but I don't know if I should because I don't know why all the other engines stopped working in the first place. Again this was the last engine that stopped working all the other ones I was using proper oil mixtures.
if you dumped 1/2 cup of oil directly into the engine, the crank case is now full of oil, and this will hudrolock the motor and it can bend the connecting rod.
 

Ilikeabikea

Active Member
Jan 27, 2008
2,322
0
36
69
Ptown, Texas
I have 4 engines total, all are 2 stroke 80CC motors. One is a china gas engine I got from an Ebay user in Canada. The parts are kinda different in size on that one compared to the other ones. That was the first one to stall. That one I used the proper oil mixture until it stalled. However it did stall after filling up at the gas station about 2 miles down the road. Still that shouldn't be a reason for it to stall right away. The other 3 are 2 stroke 80CC Raw Motors.

When I said I poured the oil into the engine block on one of the engines I'm talking about the part behind the piston head. Not on top of the engine. I should say basically into the engine compartment itself. This should still be considerd untested and the engine did die on me later...I did this to keep the engine cool and lubed. I believe I still went back to using the proper oil mixture with this one aswell.. So still no reason for it to die on me.

So.. yes very hard for me to deal with all of these engines going out right now. Plus someone stole some of my parts off the bike... not to mention other problems with having to bend the tail pipe that came up later.

I swear purchasing power in America is god awful right now! This country is going to ****! I originally wanted to buy the beach Cruisers and engines to fit all from one site..but they didn't ship to California. Anyway..

Please give me your input on what you think might fix this stalling problem.
If they are all two strokes, how did you pour oil into the engine. There is no oil plug or anything to pour oil into behind the "piston head"? How did you get oil into the engine? Inquiring minds want to know. Pictures would help immensely....
 

dragray

New Member
Mar 10, 2012
278
2
0
Indiana
ok, are you sure, absolutly positive that you even have fuel flowing into the carb float bowl?
are you running a fuel filter?
do you have anything hooked to the white wire coming from the magneto?
are your wire connections solderd and covered with heat shrink?
do you have spark?
do you have the fuel petcock open?
have you pulled the spark plug and looked at it (any of them)?
get some starting fluid and spray a LITTLE into the carb with the air filter removed and try to start it.
if it runs, or attempts to run, you have a fuel delivery problem.
I kind of find it to be very ironic that you got 4 engines, and all 4 of them stopped running.
it seriously sounds like you did something wrong during assembly on these 4 engines, because they are all doing the same thing.

do the engines even turn over at this point?
remove the spark plug and spin the rear wheel with the clutch engaged (clutch handle released).
if the piston goes up & down they are not locked up (or the clutch is slipping REALLY bad).
at 16:1, these engines should still run, but they will not run very well.
the optimum is to run 20:1 for break in, and then drop to 32:1 on the next tank.
you can even go to 40:1 which will make it run a little better.

if any of your wires are touching anything metal (like the frame of the bike) the engine will not run.
if you have anything hooked to the white wire (like a headlight) the engine will run for a little while and then die. the magneto will become too weak because it gets over worked trying to fire the spark plug and run a headlight.
hooking a light to the white wire steals power from the magneto and it will make the magneto weak enough to not give enough spark to fire the fuel.

i think you need to start over, check EVERYTHING on each bike, possibly re-wire all of them and check all of your wire connections. if you used the push together connectors for the wires that came with the kits....cut them off and throw them away. solder all the wire connections and cover them with heat shrink.
cut the end of the white wire off and cap it with heat shrink so bare wire from it can't touch anything.

remove the float bowl on the carb and make sure that it's getting gas. with the bowl off, and the float hanging down, open the fuel valve on the gas tank and make sure that fuel is actually flowing. (have a can under the carb to catch the fuel) raise the float with your fingers to verify that fuel stops flowing when the needle & seat are closed. you need a good steady flow of fuel and if it trickles or just drips when you have the float hanging down, the fuel petcock could be the cause, & it could be plugged up with debris from the inside of the gas tank or it could even be no good (but 4 bad fuel petcocks? highly unlikely). if you're not running a fuel filter, it is quite possible (but kind of unlikely to happen on all four engines) that debris from the inside of the gas tank has gotten into the main jets, clogging them.
but i think that would be a long shot because you're saying that all 4 engines died at around the same interval. it would be total coincedence for this to happen to all 4 engines.

I still think that this is an assembly error on your part.
it's too coincedental that you assembled these bikes and all 4 of the engines are doing the exact same thing.
now, if you didn't put oil in the fuel (even tho you are saying that you did) then it's no fault but yours.
if you dumped the oil into the gas tank and then added gas on top of it, the oil could be clogging up the fuel lines.
you have to mix the oil and gas in a can, shake it up and then put it in the gas tank.
you never mentioned what brand of oil you're using, and hopefully you used 2 stroke oil and not regular engine oil (like 10w-40)

dumping oil directly into the engine like you say that you did, is a very bad thing with a 2 stroke.
by the way, you would have to remove the carb to do this based on the way you described where you dumped it.
did you remove the carb or did you just dump the oil into the back of the carb (but you would still have to take the air filter off to do that, which you never mentioned).
if you did dump oil into the back of the carb, then it is quite possible that the oil has gotten into the float bowl....and an engine will never run with a float bowl full of oil.

you need to verify that the engines turn over at this point (make sure that the pistons are going up & down).
if the pistons are going up & down, then you have a good chance at getting them running again.
if the pistons don't go up & down, then you've managed to lock up 4 engines.
the only way the same person could manage to lock up 4 new two stroke engines is to run straight gas with no oil mixed in it.
 
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maurtis

New Member
Dec 14, 2011
707
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0
Kyle, TX
If they are all two strokes, how did you pour oil into the engine. There is no oil plug or anything to pour oil into behind the "piston head"? How did you get oil into the engine? Inquiring minds want to know. Pictures would help immensely....
I am thinking he used the hole under the clutch cable stay, where you access the internal clutch spring. If so, that would thankfully mean that the oil did not actually get into the crankcase since this is a separate compartment.
 

steampunk

Member
Mar 10, 2011
440
0
16
lakewood co
I poured the oil directly into the engine block behind the piston head. I did this in a very liberal fashion. It lasted longer then all the other engines only stalling when I adjusted the idle screw on the carb. It was kinda bottoming out when I was comming to a stop so I wanted to adjust it.. then It hasn't started ever since. totally died on me. I might drain this one out and try to start it up again.. but I don't know if I should because I don't know why all the other engines stopped working in the first place. Again this was the last engine that stopped working all the other ones I was using proper oil mixtures.

so their should be no oil in the case...period...the oil gets into the motor mixed in with the gas....are you using motor oil as the gas additive? having all 4 motor die out is really abnormal...a screech and a clang typically means a ring dislodged...dont be afraid to mention who you got the engines from etc....we would all rather help solve the problem....as well let it be known if their is a vendor selling absolute junk so the community can avoid them
 

dragray

New Member
Mar 10, 2012
278
2
0
Indiana
I am thinking he used the hole under the clutch cable stay, where you access the internal clutch spring. If so, that would thankfully mean that the oil did not actually get into the crankcase since this is a separate compartment.
he said behind the piston head (to me, this means the back of the cylinder) possibly into the carb or intake manifold.
but he would have had to remove the carb or the air filter to do this.
I doubt that he went through the cable stay for the clutch just by the way he is describing things.
I don't think he would have actually removed the cable stay to dump oil in it.....but you never know because he said "directly into the block".

if this guy is serious......he has no business building motorized bikes to sell.
 

steampunk

Member
Mar 10, 2011
440
0
16
lakewood co
my rule of thumb has always been....dont try and build to sell unless you build the best one in town....that goes for anything.... i dunno just me i guess
 

dragray

New Member
Mar 10, 2012
278
2
0
Indiana
my rule of thumb has always been....dont try and build to sell unless you build the best one in town....that goes for anything.... i dunno just me i guess


nope, that's 100% true, wheather your building and selling bicycles or bird houses.
 

bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
if you have anything hooked to the white wire (like a headlight) the engine will run for a little while and then die. the magneto will become too weak because it gets over worked trying to fire the spark plug and run a headlight.
hooking a light to the white wire steals power from the magneto and it will make the magneto weak enough to not give enough spark to fire the fuel.
.

Sorry, but this simply is not 100% true. While it is true that some lights will draw too much power and rob spark, it is simply a matter of using a light that will not overdraw power. LED lights tend to draw way less energy than incandescent lights, so if you use a 6v 3w LED light, you can run it off the white wire. I have been using a 150 lumen flashlight off the white wire, but I dont know how to install a voltage regulator. I am ordering a 6v 3w, 270 lumen headlight with a built-in regulator, custom made by wonderful creations on ebay, designed for use on motorized bicycles. And I am not the only person using a lighting system that involves the white wire.
 

nightcruiser

New Member
Mar 25, 2011
1,180
2
0
USA
Yes it is correct that a proper load on the white wire will NOT stall the engine, I ran 3 multi-LED flashlights off the white wire for a year with no starting or stalling problems at all. That said, if you put too big a draw on the white wire it WILL look like a short to the ignition and essentially function as a kill switch that is stuck on.

On the real deal here, which I think revolves around OIL....
On a 2-stroke you NEVER need to POUR oil into the motor anywhere. The only oil that goes in the engine is a tiny bit of lube on the parts when they are ASSEMBLED, thats it. If your engine is complete you need only add a proper mix of 2-STROKE OIL into the gas. Not motor oil, or any other kind of oil, in any other place. Just 2-STROKE OIL in the GASOLINE

If you don't run gas that is properly mixed with 2-stroke oil you WILL burn up your motor. No amount of oil poured into the intake or under the clutch stay will substitute.

If you do not take care BREAKING IN your motor you may seize it up even if you are running properly mixed gas. You need run the motor at least 100 miles with break in fuel mix without red lining the motor or beating it to allow the rings to seat etc. If you assemble and just jump on and beat the motor you are asking for failure. If you do anything other than run 2-stroke mix gas you will experience failure.

Bottom line, you need to READ A LOT so you can learn all this stuff for yourself before you have success. This stuff is all covered over and over here in the forum, people have even made check lists and guides to help you avoid these sort of experiences. I suggest you seek them out and read....
 

dragray

New Member
Mar 10, 2012
278
2
0
Indiana
Sorry, but this simply is not 100% true. While it is true that some lights will draw too much power and rob spark, it is simply a matter of using a light that will not overdraw power. LED lights tend to draw way less energy than incandescent lights, so if you use a 6v 3w LED light, you can run it off the white wire. I have been using a 150 lumen flashlight off the white wire, but I dont know how to install a voltage regulator. I am ordering a 6v 3w, 270 lumen headlight with a built-in regulator, custom made by wonderful creations on ebay, designed for use on motorized bicycles. And I am not the only person using a lighting system that involves the white wire.
ok, i tend to agree with you about using an led.
but most people don't buy a custom made light with leds in them off e-bay or anywhere else just because they are expensive (more expensive than a cheap chrome headlight with an incadesent bulb in it). most people don't think of using a flashlight either.
the majority of people will buy the cheap chrome light with a 6 volt incadesent bulb in it off e-bay.
they'll hook it to the white wire and expect it to work for a long time.

altho, a 6 volt incadesent bulb may work for a little while, but eventually the magneto will get weak enough to make the engine not run with the light hooked up.
I know, because this is what happened to me when i built my first bike.
my engine ran fine for a few days with the light hooked up and working and then out of the blue, it wouldn't run.
it wasn't getting enough power from the magneto or the light was acting as a kill switch.
as soon as i disconnected the light, the engine started and it has ran fine for the past 4 years.
I'm just saying that MOST people will opt for the cheap incandesent light on e-bay because all they hear is that you can run a headlight off of the white wire.
No one nails down the specifics that it has to be an xxx watt, xxx volt led light and possibly with a voltage regulator.
the majority of people look for the easiest, cheapest way to hook up a headlight, and 9 times out of 10, they go for the incadesent version.
then, they start having problems, the engine won't run, and they can't figure out why.
this has actually happened to a lot of people that go with an incadesent light.
 
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bigbutterbean

Active Member
Jan 31, 2011
2,417
3
38
Lebanon, PA
ok, i tend to agree with you about using an led.
but most people don't buy a custom made light with leds in them off e-bay or anywhere else just because they are expensive (more expensive than a cheap chrome headlight with an incadesent bulb in it). most people don't think of using a flashlight either.
the majority of people will buy the cheap chrome light with a 6 volt incadesent bulb in it off e-bay.
they'll hook it to the white wire and expect it to work for a long time.

altho, a 6 volt incadesent bulb may work for a little while, but eventually the magneto will get weak enough to make the engine not run with the light hooked up.
I know, because this is what happened to me when i built my first bike.
my engine ran fine for a few days with the light hooked up and working and then out of the blue, it wouldn't run.
it wasn't getting enough power from the magneto or the light was acting as a kill switch.
as soon as i disconnected the light, the engine started and it has ran fine for the past 4 years.
I'm just saying that MOST people will opt for the cheap incandesent light on e-bay because all they hear is that you can run a headlight off of the white wire.
No one nails down the specifics that it has to be an xxx watt, xxx volt led light and possibly with a voltage regulator.
the majority of people look for the easiest, cheapest way to hook up a headlight, and 9 times out of 10, they go for the incadesent version.
then, they start having problems, the engine won't run, and they can't figure out why.
this has actually happened to a lot of people that go with an incadesent light.
which is exactly why i would never even consider running incandescent lights off the white wire. the custom made light I am ordering is not that expensive, and it looks to be very high quality. $17 plus 5 for shipping, its 2 super bright led's, 270 lumens, built-in regulator, and its a sealed unit for weather resistance. $17 is not bad for the quality and the fact its custom made. better than anything I have seen for ht bikes so far, other than what people have built for themselves.