Takes longer and longer to start up.

B

b3anz129

New Member
Comrades,

What does it mean if the motor takes longer and longer to startup each time? I've tightened up the flower nut and now I'm thinking about cleaning and spraying the clutch pads with brake fluid spray. Anything else I should be watching out for? For reference, the motor essentially new.

Cheers!
 
b3anz129 said:
Comrades,

What does it mean if the motor takes longer and longer to startup each time? I've tightened up the flower nut and now I'm thinking about cleaning and spraying the clutch pads with brake fluid spray. Anything else I should be watching out for? For reference, the motor essentially new.

Cheers!
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Longer and longer to start up, are you sure it's in the clutch, and if so why? Is the clutch slipping?
 
Al.Fisherman said:
Longer and longer to start up, are you sure it's in the clutch, and if so why? Is the clutch slipping?
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Hmm good point. Well it seems to be slipping and when I tightened up the flower nut things got a bit better. The cdi is really the only other thing I can think of that might be giving me trouble as it is older than the rest of the motor but thats really the only other thing I can think of.
 
b3anz129 said:
Hmm good point. Well it seems to be slipping and when I tightened up the flower nut things got a bit better. The cdi is really the only other thing I can think of that might be giving me trouble as it is older than the rest of the motor but thats really the only other thing I can think of.
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I'm sure the CDI is fine, it's electronic, and usually they don't wear down, they just quit. Could you have too much compression, and need to add another head gasket? On my son's bike I had to add another head gasket as he weighs only about 125#
 
Al.Fisherman said:
I'm sure the CDI is fine, it's electronic, and usually they don't wear down, they just quit. Could you have too much compression, and need to add another head gasket? On my son's bike I had to add another head gasket as he weighs only about 125#
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Now this I'm just not sure about. I wouldn't know how to check for this. I had a bike before which ran pretty well. This new one has a slanted sparker which is supposed to give it "better comprehension." I weigh 150 if it means anything.
 
b3anz129 said:
Dang, I don't. Well, I hope I didn't damage the carb. Should I clean it out somehow?
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I would do a general checkup, inspect the spark plug, clean/replace as necessary, clean the carb and air filter etc. Then just make sure you turn off the fuel valve when you park from now on and hope she starts up easily. If not, post back with more info and the kind people here in the forum will do their best to help you....
PS Your not gonna damage the carb by leaving the fuel valve on. What can happen is fuel seeps down into the cylinder, if enough goes down there you might not be able to get the motor to turn over since the liquid fuel can not be compressed. A less serious effect could be a flooded condition, which kinda sounds like what you are dealing with....
 
Possibly an air leak- usually around the carb and intake juncture- Does it respond to the choke? I suddenly had to start using the choke and it didn't want to idle right- I asked here- the consensus was air leak- I simply used electrical tape- it worked.

The clutch pads could be worn or the cable need tightening if it isn't "popping" the clutch when you release the lever- you should be able to feel the compression, especially with a 66- wears me out quickly!
I think brake fluid cleaner may cause the clutch pads to slip all by itself- so will oilk or lubricant. I grease the gears and it quiets the motor down, but you have to be careful of it getting on the clutch.
 
b3anz129 said:
Now this I'm just not sure about. I wouldn't know how to check for this. I had a bike before which ran pretty well. This new one has a slanted sparker which is supposed to give it "better comprehension." I weigh 150 if it means anything.
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lol "a slanted sparker to give better comprehension".
does that mean that it understands how to run better than one without a slanted "sparker"?
 
Nashville Kat said:
Possibly an air leak- usually around the carb and intake juncture- Does it respond to the choke? I suddenly had to start using the choke and it didn't want to idle right- I asked here- the consensus was air leak- I simply used electrical tape- it worked.

The clutch pads could be worn or the cable need tightening if it isn't "popping" the clutch when you release the lever- you should be able to feel the compression, especially with a 66- wears me out quickly!
I think brake fluid cleaner may cause the clutch pads to slip all by itself- so will oilk or lubricant. I grease the gears and it quiets the motor down, but you have to be careful of it getting on the clutch.
Click to expand...

So finish the connection between the carb and the motor with some tape? Something I can try out.
 
They can definitely develop an air leak over time. That combined with OP not shutting off the petcock can make for inconsistent starting.

Seal that intake! Once it's sealed, you'll get to know exactly how much choke you need to start almost every time.
 
the case of slant vers flat head. imo flat head gives higher compression. and thats coming for a guy weighing 320. Make sure the intake is air tight and that your petcock works. take the gas line of of the carb and open then close the petcock with a cup or something easily trashed under the open hose. If the gas keeps coming. you have a petcock problem which is easily fixed. GL
 
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