I'm not sure weather I have installed the cluch arm properly or not. I'm trying to pedal the bike to a speed of 10km but its very rough? dosn't feel right. The engine is turning? Can someone please give me advice on how to properly install the cluch. Bought this kit on ebay and comes with bad manual.
I cant pedal freely? Even with the cluch lever in.
- Thread starter saolom
- Start date
Welcome to the Forum saolom! Your clutch must be fully dis-engauged for the bike to "free wheel" . With your clutch lever out and the ajuster on it all the way in can you feel a lot of free play? If you can take a phillips screw driver and 2 pair pliers. Loosen the brass holder on the arm and bring the cable as tight as you can and re tighten the brass stop. If thats not enough take the carb off and ajust the other ajuster on the motor till you feel a little slack, not much. It should be fine. Don't get it too tight you will burn your clutch out!
I had this same problem earlier.
Roll your bike until it 'sticks', then without moving the bike at all, open the clutch area. You may find that your chain is bunching up slightly inside. To fix that, shorten your chain and use the pully like thing to tension it even further. Be careful not to shorten the chain too much!
Roll your bike until it 'sticks', then without moving the bike at all, open the clutch area. You may find that your chain is bunching up slightly inside. To fix that, shorten your chain and use the pully like thing to tension it even further. Be careful not to shorten the chain too much!
once i had that problem to with a kit from ebay try to remove clutch cover and adjust that star shaped screw jus enough so that u peddle freely but enough to turn the engine when it is engaged.
saddletramp is right. start with the easiest (and most probable) solution. especially for a new build/builder.
Turn the adjusters at both ends of the cable in about half to three quarters of the way to loosen the cable housing.
Pull the cable up, pushing the arm up tight and tighten the end as tramp stated. Sometimes it's easier if you have a helper.
Tighten the cable by "loosening" the adjuster at the engine end of the cable until there is just a tiny bit of freeplay at the clutch handle end.
If, after that, the clutch doesn't disengage all the way, turn the adjuster at the bar end until there is no freeplay at all in the lever.
Pull the cable up, pushing the arm up tight and tighten the end as tramp stated. Sometimes it's easier if you have a helper.
Tighten the cable by "loosening" the adjuster at the engine end of the cable until there is just a tiny bit of freeplay at the clutch handle end.
If, after that, the clutch doesn't disengage all the way, turn the adjuster at the bar end until there is no freeplay at all in the lever.
Thank you! all for the replys. Hoping to get this kit workn with the help of you guys on the forum.
Tried tightening the cable but still hard to pedal. Sorry what do you mean by taking the carb off and adjust the other adjuster. I'm very new to this and very interested in getn this kit to work! Looks FuN!
Thanx.
The right side cluch cover is off now which way do I turn the flower looking thing?
There is a small plunger that can fall out,when you installed the chain(that happen to me)it is located in the center of the drive sprocket,If this happened the clutch lever on the motor would be very loose and would not disingage the clutch. But if that is not the problem then the star adjustment that is located under the right side egg shaped cover on engine, may need backed out just a bit. There is a screw that keeps it in place that must be removed first. Do not grease the gears! Did that and had to take it all apart to clean it off after the clutch slipped so bad it would not start. I love this form. The people here have helped me fix so many problems. Im sure you will fix the problem, so please post the fix when you do.
Ok, we never give up! There is a chance the rod that is on the counter sprocket is not long enough. If the bearing is there the plates may have frozen sitting from the motor not being used. We don't know how long these motors have been sitting in a box. Take the right side cover off and if you see any abnormalitys in the clutch and plate contact whom ever you got it from and tell them the problem. They may replace the motor. NBD.
No big deal. I would! Sounds like a defect in that unit, and engineers would love to have it back to make sure it dosen't happen again. That's the best I can do for you.
No big deal. I would! Sounds like a defect in that unit, and engineers would love to have it back to make sure it dosen't happen again. That's the best I can do for you.
What you have to realize that the bike is going to be somewhat harder to pedal as you are now are driving both chains, the sprocket and some of the gears inside the engine. The engine does add some drag and is NEVER completely disengaged. I would take the plug out and pedal it with the clutch pulled in, and see if the piston is going up and down, that should tell you whether the engine is disengaging as it should.
Thanx for the reply.
Lucky I still have the pplunger and ball b in place. I now have the egg cover off and can see the cluch. Which way do I turn, anti clockwise? I have problems when trying to get the cluch arm turning. The pressure is hard for my hand to push in. So how can the cluch lever move the arm?
Thank you all for the input so far.
Yes thats true. The bike is harder to pedal with two chains. When I push the cluch arm in by hand it WORKS. The back wheel is spinning freely but when I try to use the cluch lever it is impossible to move the arm? Should I turn the flower screw on the right hand side anti clockwise untill the pressure is easy for the cluch lever to move the arm in? This forum is so far Very Halpful.
My kit had a frayed clutch cable right out of the box. I replaced the cable with one from Wallyworld and also replaced the cheap russian style lever with a brake lever that matched all the rest of the levers on my bike. Unhook the cable from the clutch arm and make sure it moves freely inside the outer jacket.
If you can disengage the clutch by pushing the arm, do not "adjust" the flower nut!
Check the cable as misteright has stated.
Use a regular brake lever for a clutch lever if your kit came with the crappy lever. (stamped sheet metal)
Check the cable as misteright has stated.
Use a regular brake lever for a clutch lever if your kit came with the crappy lever. (stamped sheet metal)
You say the plunger and ball are in place. This question is for my knowlege. I droped the plunger out of my engine and did not know it fell out while i was working on it. I replaced the plunger, but I did not replace a ball. I might have lost it. Is there a ball that goes in first before the plunger?
Oh s**t! What happens if I already did. I turn the flower nut to get the cluch arm easier to push in on the other side. Please tell me I can re adjust it?
BTW to all that have guidede through this problem THANK YOU x10
PROBLEM fix!! Now I have a FREELY wheel! woho. I had to shorten my cluch lever and used the brake lever instead to get the cluch arm moving a little bit.
Now just hope I didn't do to much damage on the flower nut.
Thank you or your help with this TexasDave!
Got the FREEWILLY now! Problem was the cluch cable to long. It was cable tied along the top tube, then down wrap aroung the engine, then slips under the carb. This is Too long so I cut the cable so now it runs from the handle bar then on the down tube then straight to the cluch arm. Finally! I thought it was impossible to move the bloody cluch arm.
Again thanx
You are right. thank you for the input with this problem. FINALLY I can start seeing some fun out of thhis 1 week build.