As I imagined there are problems with the design of the pullstarter. I've been making alot of custom stuff lately so maybe a pull start will be the next project.
If you come up with one, we will all be interested. Please post all info with pictures. The problem that you described(aluminum problem) is the firsrt I've heard of that. Did the center screw come out or did the spring assembly come apart. Could you post a few pictures. Yes I realize how cheap these starters are. When my first one failed(was able to repair it) I ordered a three pack for spare parts. I have had good luck but I do tend to baby it as I know how cheap they are.Ordered a pullstart fer my china girl, i was super careful with it and made sure to get over compression before I would pull.... within in an hour of tuning my cns carb I pulled the starter and the center pulled right out of the almost 1/8 inch cheap aluminum, and then chewed all the teeth off the starter pawl. This got me looking at commerical pullstarters on chainsaws, weed-whackers etc. If someone could adapt one of those to a china girl they would be legendary. The BGF one was a waste of $20!!!!
I use a brass rod in the gears, brass is softer so no damage can be causedOne way to lock up the engine so you can remove the crank screw or in your case the magnet nut is remove the clutch side cover and put a shop rug into the gears teeth so as you turn the nut to remove it the rag will jam in the gears teeth so you can remove the nut this will work on all the nuts on the engines shafts. you can also take off the sprocket cover and hold the sprockets shaft with and end wrench. the rag trick works the best in my opinion. One of the guys said to pull out the sparkplug and put cotton clothsline in the hole this will also work but try to get the piston to almost the top of its stroke so some of the rope will not fall into one of the ports. I don't know if you could get that unlucky but I'd not want to find out that the rope became shorter after being in the cylinder.
Norman
It sounds like there's just enough pressure on that from that lock nut. If you remove the screws, holding it on, just enough to loosen it and give it more freedom, and it works OK, then there is too much pressure on that pawl. Put something thinner in there instead or remove the lock nut altogether and see if that makes a difference.I just received a pull start kit from Pirate Cycles and when I went to install it I noticed that I had a lock washer and then a nut on the shaft. I removed these leaving the lock washer on then putting the metal part as it should go securing with the original nut. The Pawl as it looks like it's called moves freely and does not hit the magnet screws as it is far enough off thanks to the original lock washer. However; when I complete the install and pull the cord out, it refuses to go back in. Any ideas? When I take the main cover back off the cord retracts as it should.
am I understanding the lock washer is under the sheetmetal piece or under the nut?It sounds like there's just enough pressure on that from that lock nut. If you remove the screws, holding it on, just enough to loosen it and give it more freedom, and it works OK, then there is too much pressure on that pawl. Put something thinner in there instead or remove the lock nut altogether and see if that makes a difference.
If it does stick out just far enough and you don't want to remove the lock nut, you could always grind a little metal off the spinner thing.
In between the engine body and the spinner thing. I had a washer there I couldn't leave in there and my shaft was too short to keep the lock nut too, so I had to improvise with a thinner nut. At least it was like this on mine.am I understanding the lock washer is under the sheetmetal piece or under the nut?