Older trek (first) build

takeitez

takeitez

New Member
Ok so I ended up taking all of the advise that I got and have managed to put together my first build. (semi complete) I have replaced everything in the kit besides the tank and the actual engine. Right now I am having trouble with the rear wheel. The first one I had on the bike got torn apart. I bought a 80s huffy good vibrations which I planed on motorizing but decided not too. (Looks so good and I think it will fall apart with the vibrations.) I borrowed the back wheel and while it worked great when it was on the huffy It doesn't want to work with the sprocket adapter on my motorized bike. It makes all kinds of clicking noises and some harsh squealing sounds. (The tire isn't rubbing on the frame) :-||

Basically what I am wondering is if any one else has had this problem or knows what I am talking about. New wheel or is there a fix? Any help would be appreciated.

Other then that here are the mods on the bike xct2

sbp expansion chamber
new cdi
dax hp carb
36 tooth rear sprocket with manic adapter
new twist throttle
port match
and uhh Im sure I am forgetting some thing.
 

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That's a great looking budget build. if your wheel bearings are well greased and adjusted properly, it should run silent unless your clamshell is slipping or there is something wrong structuraly
 
its very important when you set up your rear wheel not to over-tighten the cone nuts you want it just tight enough where there is no play but the wheel spins freely if you over tighten.. your bearings will be crushed and have to be replaced.. take it from me i have destroyed my share of back rims when i was new at this!!
glenn
 
wheelbender6 said:
That's a great looking budget build.
Click to expand...

Haha yes definitely a budget build. Being 15 and all ;). This is probable a stupid question but will this wheel (from the early 80s I think) be able to run the same hardware that I will be able to easily get? I am guessing I messed it up because when I first got it it was very wobbly so I tightened it all the way up like a idiot and went to push it and it didn't move. Guessing I crushed the bearings because I am new at this.

On my old wheel it was running great. Rode it every day all over town. Never had problems with cops. Never had problems with the engine. Some thing I have also noticed is that I have no idea how to work the choke on the dax hp carb. Any one have one that can explain it to me? Maybe Duane himself? ;)
 
Thanks glennbo and wheelbender6. Took apart the coaster brake and just looked at it until I understood how it works. Got it all fixed up and now the only thing that is bugging me is that I still don't know how to work the choke on the dax hp carp. Anyone have some advice?
 
That looks like the RT carb from Thats Dax. If it is there is a silver colored lever on the right side of the carb that to choke you push it down, and it will stay on until you twist the throttle. Hope that is some help to you!
 
Thanks Tim. Got it all sorted out and was riding around going way to fast and seems like I snapped the axle on the rear wheel. Dont ask my now but trust me I am soooooo happy I decided to where the full face helmet today.

Think I am going to buy a rear wheel from pirate cycles. I don't think I am going to get a workman because I would like to keep it under 60 bucks. Are the wheel master wheels any good? If so is the nexus internal shifter any good? If I can not use a derailleur and keep shifting then I would pay the 110 bucks for it and another 200 eventually for a shift kit.
 
Where did you get your hub adapter? My Trek 850/Shimano hub measures 1.115" o.d. and appears to be an uncommon size.
 
I had a wheel with a coaster break that I used on the bike. The shifter has 2 little screws on the back of it and you can adjust those to the min and max distance for the shifter to travel. Adjust that to where the sprocket is and you got perfect alignment. (well for the tensioner and wheel sprocket anyway.) There is prob a better way to do this but Im just cheap.
 
Ok so I have a new wheel in the mail and am kinda woried I will break it like I did the one I currently have. By looking at the photos can anybody see something that I did wrong that caused it to fail or was it just a cheap wheel?
 

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I'm not really sure how it works when buying a rear wheel because of the freewheel or cassette piece. Your pictures look like it didn't actually break but came apart at some bearing part. Couldn't say what that means but may just be the design of the wheel and a different one would work fine.

If your new wheel doesn't work out then I know pirate cycles sells high quality stuff with heavy duty axles and the like

http://search.store.yahoo.net/yhst-...12064&.autodone=http://www.piratecycles1.com/

I really like the flyer handle bars though, real nice! :D
 
Hehe yea it was defiantly a budget build but I learned a lot. My new wheel is from pirate cycles. You might not be able to see in the picture but the axle is defiantly in two pieces. Ohh well hope I don't manage to destroy the forth wheel. :D
 
Looks to me like you overtightened the axle and ground the bearings up. Your local shop can sell you a good cro-moly axle set fairly cheap. It's good insurance. If you don't know how to adjust an axle, ask the shop guy or a friend to show you, It's too long for me to type out.
 
Ok thanks. I had it tightened up way too tight at first. Kinda new at the whole bike thing. I think i might have damaged it and then it just broke at speed to piss me off :D
 
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