I'm Buying my First Motor
- Thread starter Spoogle
- Start date
It would help us if we knew what motor you're going to run, what kit you're buying (if it's a kit) and what bike you're putting it on.
Assuming you're buying a 66cc/80cc two-stroke engine, everything but the bike is included in the kit and you shouldn't need (in theory) to buy anything. Although, you might want to buy some things to replace them that comes with the kit :
-Spark plugs (NGK BP5HS or NGK BP6HS is good), the ones that come with the kit are really cheap.
-New gas lines, the ones that come with the kits tend to become hard and thus fragile.
-New fuel filter, why not?
-New #415 chain, just in case you happen to break it (these damn 415 chains are hard to come by in stores, you're probably going to buy online)
-While you're at it, a chain breaker (good tool that allows you to had master-link-less chains)
-Different rear sproket, your kit will come with a 40 tooth or 44 tooth in most cases. Going down on tooth will give you more top speed at the expense of acceleration, the other way around is true too.
-Metric bolts 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, just in case your engine would break it's mounts loose or something, just buy them, you'll end up using those.
-Head gaskets, they're cheap and it would be sad having to wait for the mail.
I can't really think of anything else really. All those are not necessary but eventually, if you learn to love these engines you'll get them. Also, maybe it's time to change your brakes on the bike.
-Spark plugs (NGK BP5HS or NGK BP6HS is good), the ones that come with the kit are really cheap.
-New gas lines, the ones that come with the kits tend to become hard and thus fragile.
-New fuel filter, why not?
-New #415 chain, just in case you happen to break it (these damn 415 chains are hard to come by in stores, you're probably going to buy online)
-While you're at it, a chain breaker (good tool that allows you to had master-link-less chains)
-Different rear sproket, your kit will come with a 40 tooth or 44 tooth in most cases. Going down on tooth will give you more top speed at the expense of acceleration, the other way around is true too.
-Metric bolts 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, just in case your engine would break it's mounts loose or something, just buy them, you'll end up using those.
-Head gaskets, they're cheap and it would be sad having to wait for the mail.
I can't really think of anything else really. All those are not necessary but eventually, if you learn to love these engines you'll get them. Also, maybe it's time to change your brakes on the bike.
If you have a coaster brake bike you are going to have to machine the center hole bigger on your drive sprocket. Also I found an inch/pound torque wrench invaluable.
If you get stuck on your assembly . Ask for help here . But please be ready to post good clear pictures of your progress that we may not have to scratch our poor little heads trying to figure out what it is your talking about . Most important use terms in your question we are familiar with . Not thingy or gizmo .
I would add a comment to the head gasket thing- although it might seems like a big deal to someone new- I recommend taking a head off a new motor, and because there iISN'T a lot of care taken to their finishing at the factory- then taking a good flat metal file and lightly filing both surfaces on the head and on the motor piston jug- to a smooth shiney surface-
That helps the gasket do it's job by eliminating rough and diverse areas on the mating surfaces. It sounds like a lot but it's really just taking off the four bolts and then tightening them again with reasonable but not extreme tension.
It may keep you from having to do it later after blowing a head gasket trying to fill the not-very-smoothly-finished surfaces.
I like boygofast for price and no frills. He could have better descriptions on parts- most of them could. http://stores.ebay.com/BoyGoFast
That helps the gasket do it's job by eliminating rough and diverse areas on the mating surfaces. It sounds like a lot but it's really just taking off the four bolts and then tightening them again with reasonable but not extreme tension.
It may keep you from having to do it later after blowing a head gasket trying to fill the not-very-smoothly-finished surfaces.
I like boygofast for price and no frills. He could have better descriptions on parts- most of them could. http://stores.ebay.com/BoyGoFast
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Warning : Removing too much metal can make your engine have more compression, it can also lead to piston knock. Also, make sure no metal shavings are left on both head and jug before reinstalling. For a clean job, you should use a flat surface (most often glass) and glue to it sanding paper (what grit?) and use circular motion on the head and jug surfaces (better than using a file).
You have not mentioned which type of engine or the frame you plan to mount it. So I'm addressing the most common kit...the Chinese 49cc/66cc.
Generally NO. But depending on the frame you mount your engine on, you might need a different front mount then what is supplied on the engine. For example if using a cruiser, not many out there will mount without a custom mount. Here are some ideas about both the engine itself and mounting.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1GcesQihc7-mm3hJGf7UPiqOaRXZ8ekUT99QUZq2qXXE/edit
Engine Mounting pictures by Ron-Becker - Photobucket
