Recently I put a 80cc chinese engine on my bike, does anyone know what the proper plug gap is? It ran great the first day I tried it but now it runs but doesn't have any power. I was going to put a new plug in it thinking I might have fouled the one that came with it out trying to get it to run.
spark plug gap
- Thread starter nmason
- Start date
I just installed my 80cc and my spark plug gap was set to .045 and I adjusted it to where this forum recommended (some said .018-.023 & some said .020-.028). I set it to .025 & it wouldn't start. I tried everything and finally re-set the original gap & it started right up!
I'm sure it has something to do with the fuel/oil ratio used for break-in. It would probably have to be a bigger spark to fire through all that oil (16:1). It could also be due to the quality of components used. I'm using the stock plug/plug wire and will be changing that pretty soon. I'm learning a lot on the forum, but I haven't been able to find anything about upgrading my plug wire. Just recommendations to upgrade to a 7mm or 8mm wire. Not to change the direction of the thread, but can you point my in the right direction?
Ya know alot of automobile engines are running gaps in the .040 neighborhood too. I think it's more to do with the CDI ignition they are set up for. As far as the plug wire I don't know just what the ohms resistance (per foot) of the wire
should be, but if you take the wire off and check it with someone who knows and understands this stuff then you could make that calculation.
I've seen guys put solid metal spark wires on High Energy Ignitions and burn the
system out. They generally rely on some resistance. The resistance helps to prevent the premature burn off of the electrodes (both center and ground) of the plug and maintain the longevety of the ignition system. Generally the wider gap gave better bottom end and starting characteristics where as the narrower gap gave the best top speed running. Bear in mind motor's aren't designed to run at 100% for long and 75% is a more sane cruising speed.
should be, but if you take the wire off and check it with someone who knows and understands this stuff then you could make that calculation.
I've seen guys put solid metal spark wires on High Energy Ignitions and burn the
system out. They generally rely on some resistance. The resistance helps to prevent the premature burn off of the electrodes (both center and ground) of the plug and maintain the longevety of the ignition system. Generally the wider gap gave better bottom end and starting characteristics where as the narrower gap gave the best top speed running. Bear in mind motor's aren't designed to run at 100% for long and 75% is a more sane cruising speed.
With the weak mag the china in-frame kits have, the general consensus is to gap @ .018-.024
If you can get a consistant spark at .034, go for it.
If you can get a consistant spark at .034, go for it.
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To answer your question, a larger gap will give better low end and starting and a smaller gap misfires less at high rpm.
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It sounds like a lot of people are having this same problem. I have posted this response on several threads where I think the same problem exists.
Ok, here goes, I had a sputter and power problem with one of my kits as well. It ran great for the first week and then all of a sudden no power and sputter. I finally figured it out after 2 carb's, new wire and end, new CDI, new rings and all. Here is what caused my problem and once done I am riding SMOOTH once again.
The problem was restricted Air/Fuel flow to the cylinder by the factory intake gasket. It seems the gasket is cut to the size of the intake and not the cylinder. Once the gasket was saturated with fuel and oil it expanded and interfered with the flow.
The fix: Remove the carb and intake. Cut the intake gasket center hole out using the engine side as a guide (I used an exacto knife). Be careful not to get pieces in the engine. Add blue sealer (small amount) to both sides of gasket and re-install. Mine runs GREAT now.
I hope this helps. Let me know if anyone needs further info on this such as symptoms,or fix procedures. I love it when a plan comes together!
Ok, here goes, I had a sputter and power problem with one of my kits as well. It ran great for the first week and then all of a sudden no power and sputter. I finally figured it out after 2 carb's, new wire and end, new CDI, new rings and all. Here is what caused my problem and once done I am riding SMOOTH once again.
The problem was restricted Air/Fuel flow to the cylinder by the factory intake gasket. It seems the gasket is cut to the size of the intake and not the cylinder. Once the gasket was saturated with fuel and oil it expanded and interfered with the flow.
The fix: Remove the carb and intake. Cut the intake gasket center hole out using the engine side as a guide (I used an exacto knife). Be careful not to get pieces in the engine. Add blue sealer (small amount) to both sides of gasket and re-install. Mine runs GREAT now.
I hope this helps. Let me know if anyone needs further info on this such as symptoms,or fix procedures. I love it when a plan comes together!
or you could just use RTV only
I put it on the manifold and bolt it up
I do the same with my exhaust
neither leak and the engine has 1700+ miles since late March
I put it on the manifold and bolt it up
I do the same with my exhaust
neither leak and the engine has 1700+ miles since late March
What gap for you plug are you using
Greetings,
Bought and built my bike (Chinese "80cc" 2 stroke purchased off E-bay) about a month ago and have had no problems at all. Ride to work and back everyday - about 4 miles round trip. I live in Gallup, NM at about 7000ft above sea level and pulled the plug last night to see if it was running too rich. I have not changed the stock plug. When I pulled the plug I noticed that the gap was HUGE!
What should the spark plug gap on these plugs be?
TIA
G
Greetings,
Bought and built my bike (Chinese "80cc" 2 stroke purchased off E-bay) about a month ago and have had no problems at all. Ride to work and back everyday - about 4 miles round trip. I live in Gallup, NM at about 7000ft above sea level and pulled the plug last night to see if it was running too rich. I have not changed the stock plug. When I pulled the plug I noticed that the gap was HUGE!
What should the spark plug gap on these plugs be?
TIA
G
.20 to.25 should be the gap.Throw away the stock plug and replace with a NGK B6HS plug, If you continue to use the stock plug the electrode may break off and cause damage inside the cylinder.
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