Spokes destroyed

D

Diver

New Member
What happened here? The tire started going out of true, started warping. I took it off, removed the rear drive assembly and BAM! It looks chewed up, like 6-8 spokes brokes off (about an inch up-right where the everything mounts). This wheel is finished and I've since mounted a "double-wall" wheel to my MB to help.

I didn't especially tighten the rear sprocket that often - is that it? What can I do to prevent this in the future?

DSCN3593.jpg
 
We need photos of the sprocket installed.
Did you install it correctly? From outside in, is it a sandwich? Sprocket, rubber, spokes, rubber, metal plates.
The photo suggets that the rag joint (sprocket attachment) was not installed correctly.
You should not be breaking spokes.
Tom
 
Diver said:
What happened here? The tire started going out of true, started warping. I took it off, removed the rear drive assembly and BAM! It looks chewed up, like 6-8 spokes brokes off (about an inch up-right where the everything mounts). This wheel is finished and I've since mounted a "double-wall" wheel to my MB to help.

I didn't especially tighten the rear sprocket that often - is that it? What can I do to prevent this in the future?
Click to expand...
It really isn't a good idea to clamp to the spokes. Yes, it
works pretty good if you have a heavy duty wheel and spokes.

Much better to drive off the hub.
Manic Mechanic has good info with FAQ's here ADAPTER FAQ'S

Check out the animated Manic Mechanic hub adapter set up.
WHEEL.gif
 
Last edited:
2door said:
You should not be breaking spokes.
Click to expand...

I installed it correctly. My question now is should I tighten down the bolts on the spoke assembly after every ride? I didn't really tighten it ever before this latest discovery (on this wheel). I imagine it could got a little *loose* and destroy the spokes that way) or could over-tightening break spokes too.. should I visually or physically examine my spokes for wear-and-tear instead (I do have a spoke adjustment tool-I could use that).

Thanks for lead, BiMoPed. And thanks for the input as well, 2Door.
 
BiMoPed said:
It really isn't a good idea to clamp to the spokes. Yes, it
works pretty good if you have a heavy duty wheel and spokes.

Much better to drive off the hub.
Manic Mechanic has good info with FAQ's here ADAPTER FAQ'S

Check out the animated hub adapter set up.
WHEEL.gif
Click to expand...

Is this the rear wheel assembly that you get with the EZ kit?
 
Do you have stock type spokes or heavy duty? I have the Manic Mechanic adapter with heavy spokes. I don't think I will EVER have to worry about it.

Terry
 
I have a few questions.
What rear wheel adapter comes with the EZ kit?
What is the deal with Manic Mechanic. I have been to their site but It seems like they only sell thru dealers and not direct, Is that true? What is the price of their rear wheel adapter?
Would appreciate any info.
T
 
BiMoPed said:
No it is not.
There are no kits that I know of that come with a Manic Mechanic hub adapter.

It is an end user upgrade.
Click to expand...
Thanks.... It seems like the only real way to go. I see people here talking about going fast and the Rag to the spokes seems like a weak link in the system.
 
I had the same problem as OP, twice.
Just found this thread through a search and it answered my questions.
Thank you all.
Also, I am going to experiment with JB weld and other commercial epoxy to help distribute stress better. I will post results when I have them.
 
Just curious but how do you plan to use an epoxy to "distribute stress"?

If your plan is to build up the hub or glue the rag joint to the spokes, don't.

If you're talking about a hub adapter, do not try to mount it with anything but the bolts that come with it. As was stated above by Venice Motor Bikes, the hub must be a consistant diameter across its width. Do not try to make a hub adapter fit by increasing its diameter with epoxy. The adapter MUST be the correct inside diameter to work properly. This means you must measure the hub carefully and supply those measurements to whoever you plan to buy your adapter from.

Tom
 
The sketch is as crude as the idea but basically...

257hyte.jpg


If the cured epoxy has any flexibility then some of the pressure from the sprocket being pulled by the chain will be put on the joint between the hub and the sprocket. some of it will still be on the rubber connecting the sprocket to the spokes.

Of course I realize I will lose a few hubs learning how to do this right and that the whole thing could be avoided by simply buying an off-the-shelf hub adapter but if I wanted someone else to do it for me then I would just buy an assembled gas bike.
 
Did you get aftermarket fasteners for the rag joint and torque them to 10-15ft/lbs torque? I used a torque wrench and was amazed at how much torque 10-15ft/lbs really is.
 
i thought i was going to have a ton of problems with the rag joint.
mine only shifted once AFTER my axle bent.
got new bearings & a chrome molly axle. no more problems with it.
i have heavy duty spokes. they are a 'lil twisted underneath the joint but my spokes are tight & my rim is still true so no problems.
 
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