Hard pedal to start up!

mercurius04

mercurius04

New Member
Hello guys! As you see I am new here and I need help. I just bought the Engine Bicycle Kit GAS Motor Motorized Bike EPA FS 80CC 2 stroke. I put it on bike but I can't start it up because the pedal is too hard. When I take off the spark plug I can here the engine when I move the bike. Why is that? One more question. I still didn't connect the kill switch because I dont know where the cables go... I read in other threds but I could'nt understant.
My kill switch has a yello and a white the engine has a blue a white and a black. Thanks and sorry if I make some mistakes with my English.
 
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Maybe this diagram will help with wiring:


NEW ignition Diagram.jpg
 
I try to keep pedaling but is too hard and nothing happened... Do you thing that maybe the cylinder of engine is stuck because of a long time in box?
I thing that is too hard even if it start up... I saw many videos that some guys make once pedaling without even seat on bike and the engine starts...
Is it need oil in engine? Just asking... :D
 
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If you lock your clutch lever in, is pedaling easy?
If no difference with clutch lever in or out, then clutch pucks have stuck to the plate.

Remove the cover for the chain sprocket and tap the inner shaft end with soft wood or plastic hammer to unstick the pucks, and yes, this is caused by being unused, a long time in the box.

hit here.jpg
 
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Yes if lock the clutch lever is pedaling easy... That's why I am wondering...
I will try it tommorow but I would like to ask you if it's stuck and do what you said and don't have any luck is the engine dead???
Sorry for my questions but as a woman is my first time in motorized engines... hehe :D
 
It's pretty unlikely that your motor is completely dead.

The reason you can hear the engine with the spark plug out is that there is no compression when the spark plug is out, so it flows relatively smoothly - this is how I know that your piston isn't stuck in the cylinder.


Now, when you try tomorrow to unstick the pucks (if that's what's wrong), you want to be sure that your clutch is adjusted properly.

In the picture above, you can see the drive sprocket and a pin in the center of it where the green arrow is pointing. If you look at the cover you take off, there is a camshaft in there - it's basically a rod with a flat spot. You want that flattened spot to be perfectly flat against the pin. This will maximize the amount that you are able to move the clutch when you pull the lever. How you do that is pretty simple - with the cover off, take a look at the camshaft (the one with the flat spot) and using the lever on top, line it up to where it would be flat against that pin. Now, you just basically have to remember where the lever is positioned, and tighten your clutch cable to where the lever is in the same spot.

After that, you really don't want to adjust that cable anymore - cause like I said a bit ago, that's the spot where you'll get the most clutch movement with your lever.

I gotta head out in a couple minutes, but I'll post again and mention how to adjust the clutch plate a little bit later.

ADDITION:

Looks like things are delayed for me here, so I can tell you how to adjust the clutch plate.


To start - push the clutch lever in and lock it. On the right side of the motor is a cover with 5 bolts, so you'll need to remove that. Underneath it, you'll see two geared wheels - the largest one is the one we're going to working on. At the center of it is a flower nut, with what looks like metal petals on the outside of it. There is going to be a locking screw between two of the "petals", so you'll want to remove that first. Now you can freely move the flower nut - when you tighten it, it brings the clutch plate closer to the clutch pads/pucks, and when you loosen it it brings the clutch plate away from the pads/pucks. Your goal is to have the clutch plate off of the pucks enough so that the bike rolls freely when the clutch is locked, but when the clutch is not being held in you don't want to be able to roll it freely at all. Generally, I say that when you're adjusting it, you want to be able to test it by firing up the bike, and holding the back wheel off the ground with the clutch locked. If the wheel moves, you know the clutch plate is too tight. But in your situation, you haven't fired up the bike yet, so you're just wanting to make sure that when the clutch is locked, the bike rolls freely, and when the clutch lever isn't being pulled you can't roll it.
 
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If you lock the lever and pedaling is easy, and then unlock the lever and pedaling is hard, then the clutch is working, because now you are pedaling against the resistance of the engine.

You need oil mixed with the fuel, it is not a separate thing to add.

First you have to pedal with the clutch in, so it is easy, you get up to speed and then let out the clutch and the engine will turn and it should start.
 
Im having the same issue, yet even when I engage the clutch, pedaling is soo hard, to the point I cant even move the bike. What's happening? I would love some help^_^.
 
DuctTapedGoat said:
How to adjust the clutch.

To start - push the clutch lever in and lock it. On the right side of the motor is a cover with 5 bolts, so you'll need to remove that. Underneath it, you'll see two geared wheels - the largest one is the one we're going to working on. At the center of it is a flower nut, with what looks like metal petals on the outside of it. There is going to be a locking screw between two of the "petals", so you'll want to remove that first. Now you can freely move the flower nut - when you tighten it, it brings the clutch plate closer to the clutch pads/pucks, and when you loosen it it brings the clutch plate away from the pads/pucks. Your goal is to have the clutch plate off of the pucks enough so that the bike rolls freely when the clutch is locked, but when the clutch is not being held in you don't want to be able to roll it freely at all. Generally, I say that when you're adjusting it, you want to be able to test it by firing up the bike, and holding the back wheel off the ground with the clutch locked. If the wheel moves, you know the clutch plate is too tight. You're just wanting to make sure that when the clutch is locked, the bike rolls freely, and when the clutch lever isn't being pulled you can't roll it.
Click to expand...



I would say try this first acme. Welcome to the forum as well!
 
Hey there,
I Did what you said and that totally helped! but I now I found a new problem.
I cant seem to get my bike to start! I pedal, it up (which is a breeze now thanks to you) and then when I let up the clutch, I hear the engine trying to start, but I just cant get any power going! Whats up with that? The chain attaching the rear sprocket to the engine very slightly grazes the bike frame- could that be an issue? The spark plug us working fine and I seem to be getting fuel to the engine- I am totally lost here. Any suggestions? I really appreciate it.
 
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The chain rubbing if it is slight is only a danger to the paint. If it more than slight, it could cause alignment issues.

First, I would say try to start it with the choke on, then if it fires up take the choke off.

It could be wiring issues. Many people recommend not wiring in the kill switch when you're trying to diagnose the problem, which I will recommend to you as well.

:::::WIRING GUIDE :::::

Okay, first we will take note of our wires.

NOTE: Different brands tend to use different colors for some wires, so use the process of elimination to determine what color a wire is if it is not stated here.

*Kill Switch Wires : Green Wire & Red/Yellow Wire.
*Engine Wires : Blue Wire & Black Wire & White Wire.
*CDI Wires: Blue Wire & Black Wire.
*Other Stuff: Wire Cap

Now that you know what wires you have, it's time to connect them.

1. Engine's Blue Wire to CDI's Blue Wire.
2. Engine's Black Wire to CDI's Black Wire.
3. Kill Switch's Green Wire to Engine's & CDI's Black Wire.
4. Kill Switch's Red/Yellow Wire to Engine's & CDI's Blue Wire.
5. Engine's White Wire to Wire Cap.
 
Hey, thanks for the reply, again.
Im pretty sure I have the wiring alright. Im gonna try to start it without the kill switch tonight when I get home from work. Could you tell me more about what exactly the screw does on the side of the carburetor? uhh...geez, I remember reading a thread about it, gosh what is it called? but there was something about it being completely screwed in for max air flow. I am so scatter brained right now, had light five cups of coffee to wake up bc I stayed up so late working on the damn thing. Whats happening is that I pedal up to start and then release the clutch and it seems to be sorta starting the engine but the it'll put put and I eventually come to an epic halt. Am I not pedaling fast enough? I mean Im KILLING myself pedaling, soooo Im completely clueless! anyway, Ill check the wiring and your response in about 10 hours. Thanks again!
 
It does depend on what carb you have - if you have the one with a single screw on the side and a single cable coming out the top and the air filter slightly resembles a skull, you have an NT carb. In that case, the screw would handle the idle. If it's too low, when you hold in the clutch it will just stall out and die. You want it set to just where you can hold in the clutch and idle without it dying on ya.


Actually - that it's put putting on you is good! That narrows down a lot of bad things.

Is this a brand new motor?
 
Are you sure the petcock on the gas tank is open and that gas it actually getting to the carburetor? When you pedal, get up to speed and then let out the clutch are you twisting the throttle some to give it gas? On a new engine I like to have a bit of hill to go down to make the pedaling easier and get up a bit more speed. Try it with no choke. Then try it with the choke on for just a few seconds while trying to start with the throttle handle twisted open. Then try it with the choke left on. They aren't all the same. Some like a little choke, some a lot and I've had one that did not want to be choked at all unless it was very cold weather.

By the way, what is going on here? Two pretty girls posting in one thread on our forum? It's nice, but not usual. Welcome to both of you and best of luck. It will be worth it and you will get them going.
SB
 
Haha! I needed that compliment^_~
Anyway, yes the motor is new and yes, I do have an NT carb as you described, great to learn all this jargon. I guess Ill run outside and try all the stuff you guys suggested. After talking it over with one of the regulars at my job, I have a feeling it's either an electrical problem or a gas problem. I do have a rear mount- could that be affecting it? i mean, I can watch the gas go into the carb, but there are little bubbles, but isnt that normal? I could take a picture if it helps.
 
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Okay, went around the block, again, it's like the engine wont take over but its trying, however this time, i noticed gas dripping from the carb, out of the black, jet tube looking part, That cant be good! What did I do? wahhh!!
 
I stand corrected, it does lean a little. Im gonna fix it now and see it that helps....am I gonna have to clean all this gas inside the carb? I hope thats not a stupid question. Im gonna clean up the gas bc well...I dont wanna torch myself, but is there anything else i need to be doing?
 
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