Couple of small issues to be addressed

badpenny

badpenny

New Member
Has anyone had issues with the chain rubbing? Either I don't have adequate clearance or my frame is bent. I have a 90's Roland (looks like a trek) And I mainly got it to see how simple putting one of these kits together would be. Secondly, I couldn't adjust the chain length by 1 link, so I had to leave 2 links in it. Now its droopy, and I couldn't adjust the wheel back far enough.
I think I might need to look @ a different frame.
A different question. How do you guys split your chain?
 
hi; i use a dremel, a chain breaker can be used. go to search, has been covered. throw away chain and buy #41or415 get extra master and 1/2 links are available. good luck. mitch
 
replace the chain, or move the engine, or adjust the rear sprocket, or do all three.

The chain that comes with the kit is so bad. The chain tensioner is a joke.

Search this site for a shim for the back motor mount called an aluminum tee shirt. It spaces the motor just enough forward so the chain links are even with the rear wheel geometry.
Use a BMX chain (this requires a thats dax .81 ten tooth drive sprocket)
You wont need the adjuster , and your ride will be smoother.

The sprocket can be installed with a dish or offset towards the wheel or away from it.

Sight down the chain-line for answers.
 
fairracing31 said:
Where is it rubbing on the frame?
Click to expand...

Midway, of the lower arm that holds the wheel. (this of course is with the bike still upsidedown) Should I attempt reversing the sprocket to get different allignment? I thought of placing washers on the outside of the hub to push the frame away from the sprocket.

Also, in my instructions, its not clear on where the 2nd rubber bushing goes, so does it go on the inside? or are the spokes supposed to be sandwiched by these 2 rubber rings?
 
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Are you having alignment issue's? Is your rear sprocket "True" with your front sprocket? You should have 1/2-3/4inch slack in the chain.

Yes the rubber should sandwhich the spokes

Picture009-1.jpg


Picture005-2.jpg
 
Wow! Those are good pics of the hub, Fairracing, answers a couple questions a buddy asked about this subject. Seems I talked a diehard anti-motorized bike friend into getting a Spooky Tooth kit. All I did was let him ride the Whizzer. He doesn't like the Whizzer belt drive so much, but he did return from his ride with a kid's grin. Asked me about this very topic.(^)
 
fairracing31 said:
Are you having alignment issue's? Is your rear sprocket "True" with your front sprocket? You should have 1/2-3/4inch slack in the chain.
Click to expand...
I have closer to 2 inches. Odd, seeing that if I took out the next link, it would put the axle outside the housing. And with the chain cut where I have it, I can't move the axle back far enough.
fairracing31 said:
Yes the rubber should sandwhich the spokes
Click to expand...
Thanks, most illustrations I have seen were taken @ odd angles and I couldn't tell the reflection from the real item. Plus the instructions I recieved were quite vauge.
fairracing31 said:
Picture005-2.jpg
Click to expand...
Well, now that I see I can swap around my teeth to face inward, I might try that, seeing that my chain wants to travel the inside of the sprocket anyways.

This wasn't a standard sprocket, did you reduce the number of your rear gears to be single?
 
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Got to keep the chain from knocking the frame before I choose where to set the tensioner. 1 step @ a time. Secondly. I am still attempting to find a good pic of how that is set up.
 
From your description, the chain is rubbing on the frame because it has two inches of play and no tensioner....
 
Thanks guys, I have been @ work tonight, and on my break, I reset the sprocket on the rim. Just out of curiosity, did any of you guys use a torque wrench on the bolts that hold the sprocket? I am trying to get equal distribution to each bolt as to keep from offsetting the alignment of the sprocket. I got it pretty close, actually, really close. But, anyways, I was just askin. Thanks for the pics.
 
I used to use a torque wrench but I've pulled my sprocket on and off so many times that I don't bother any more.
 
Hold the head of the ratchet, and crank 'em down, you'll feel it when they are "tight".

Use a cross pattern like lug nuts.
 
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