Honda GXH 50 Engine
- Thread starter Big Joe
- Start date
Really like the Honda. Very stout and lights off like a candle.
Honda/PB video by dan3xd - Photobucket
Can we have a moment of silence for Ol' Red? Pot holes got her. (Cracked frame)
Honda/PB video by dan3xd - Photobucket
Can we have a moment of silence for Ol' Red? Pot holes got her. (Cracked frame)
I'll revive this old thread for a question...
Are parts compatible between the Honda and its clones (HS and Titan 50)? I've noticed that it's getting harder to find HS engines with the tapered shaft and integrated clutch and I've never seen a Honda with it.
Is it possible swap a tapered crank shaft and side cover for a HS on to a Honda?
Erich
Are parts compatible between the Honda and its clones (HS and Titan 50)? I've noticed that it's getting harder to find HS engines with the tapered shaft and integrated clutch and I've never seen a Honda with it.
Is it possible swap a tapered crank shaft and side cover for a HS on to a Honda?
Erich
I can't speak to wether or not the parts are interchangeable between Honda and HS motors, but bicycle-engines has the HS parts you mentioned and shown on their web site. Which usually means that the parts are available from them? 49cc Engine Parts (crankshaft), 49cc Engine Parts (side cover)
ocscully
ocscully
The side cover is definitely compatible, but I can't say for sure if the crankshaft is. I'd imagine they can be interchanged.
Be careful, as the HS motor is patterned from an earlier version of the Honda motor. Some parts are compatible, however many look the same but aren't. As an example the dipstick isn't interchangeable, and the carburetor is a different version, looks different, but does swap out [the HS has a larger main jet]. The compression ratios are listed as different; therefore I suspect the piston may not be the same. The flywheel, rope starter, flywheel cover, and ignition are interchangeable.
Have fun,
Have fun,
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Thanks for the replys guys. I was wondering if some things were different. Keep the info coming.
Erich
You're right. I have an email into Bicycle-engines to see if that crank shaft is the tapered one. It doesn't look like it when you click on the larger pic.
Erich
Hi Erich,
The HS motor, depending on final use, has many different configurations. Some have a 15.8 MM shaft [called the 5/8" shaft motor], some have a tapered shaft, and some have a 15 MM shaft.
Most of the early motors with the "Hoot" gear box have 15 MM [.5905"] shaft and is slightly shorter. The motors with the Grubee drives normally had the 15.8 MM [.6220"] shaft and is slightly longer. The later Hoot [single & dual chain drive], Titan, and 4G Grubee motors had the short tapered shaft [no key way] and had the famous "weed eater" clutch on board. I have been told some of the importers have abandoned the short tapered shaft motor and will only be stocking the 15.8 MM shaft version in the future.
Bicycle-engines most likely will have both styles of crankshafts in stock if needed as they sold both styles of HS motors. Also note the Bicycle-Engine motors normally used 1/4" X 28 threads in the side cover as opposed to the 6 MM used by many other companies [we used both versions in the EZM motor kits].
The tapered shaft motor can be modified to match the 15.8 MM long shaft by changing the crankshaft and the drive side motor plate [tapered shaft motor has a much wider side cover].
Have fun,
The HS motor, depending on final use, has many different configurations. Some have a 15.8 MM shaft [called the 5/8" shaft motor], some have a tapered shaft, and some have a 15 MM shaft.
Most of the early motors with the "Hoot" gear box have 15 MM [.5905"] shaft and is slightly shorter. The motors with the Grubee drives normally had the 15.8 MM [.6220"] shaft and is slightly longer. The later Hoot [single & dual chain drive], Titan, and 4G Grubee motors had the short tapered shaft [no key way] and had the famous "weed eater" clutch on board. I have been told some of the importers have abandoned the short tapered shaft motor and will only be stocking the 15.8 MM shaft version in the future.
Bicycle-engines most likely will have both styles of crankshafts in stock if needed as they sold both styles of HS motors. Also note the Bicycle-Engine motors normally used 1/4" X 28 threads in the side cover as opposed to the 6 MM used by many other companies [we used both versions in the EZM motor kits].
The tapered shaft motor can be modified to match the 15.8 MM long shaft by changing the crankshaft and the drive side motor plate [tapered shaft motor has a much wider side cover].
Have fun,
Can I convert a standard Honda 5/8" shaft engine into a tapered shaft using the bicycle-engine.com crank and side cover?
Hi Erich,
I know for sure the crankshaft can be exchanged on the HS motors. I don't know if the Honda crankshaft can be replaced with the tapered HS version.
Not sure why you would want the tapered shaft version as it wasn't known to be the best solution for motorbike use. The on-board clutch wasn't designed for Motorbike use and I understand it locks quickly [not a good idea for a smooth take-off on a motorbike].
Through research we found a clutch that works much smoother on motorbikes. If the clutch goes through the "ticking" cycle prior to total lock it makes the transfer of power from the motor to the wheel 100% better [less "jerk" on the drive system].
Have fun,
I know for sure the crankshaft can be exchanged on the HS motors. I don't know if the Honda crankshaft can be replaced with the tapered HS version.
Not sure why you would want the tapered shaft version as it wasn't known to be the best solution for motorbike use. The on-board clutch wasn't designed for Motorbike use and I understand it locks quickly [not a good idea for a smooth take-off on a motorbike].
Through research we found a clutch that works much smoother on motorbikes. If the clutch goes through the "ticking" cycle prior to total lock it makes the transfer of power from the motor to the wheel 100% better [less "jerk" on the drive system].
Have fun,
I wasn't aware that the stock clutch was inferior. I wanted to use the integrated clutch because the conversion parts for the 5/8" shaft engines, such as the one available from Staton, are so much more expensive (although very well built) Honda GXH50 QXA Clutch Adaptor kit.
Erich
Erich
Hi Erich,
You get what you pay for! I assure you the Stanton system is 100 times better than the typical on-board clutch. It has alot to do with design & usuage, remember the stock on-board clutch isn't designed for motorbike use, but for less demanding duty.
The weak part of the 4 stroke kit is getting the power from the motor to the wheel, which is why Stanton, ourselves [EZM], and other American companies start with an upgraded clutch in our drive systems.
Have fun,
You get what you pay for! I assure you the Stanton system is 100 times better than the typical on-board clutch. It has alot to do with design & usuage, remember the stock on-board clutch isn't designed for motorbike use, but for less demanding duty.
The weak part of the 4 stroke kit is getting the power from the motor to the wheel, which is why Stanton, ourselves [EZM], and other American companies start with an upgraded clutch in our drive systems.
Have fun,
That makes sense. I'm not discounting any of the manufacturers you've mentioned (including yourself). The problem with Honda 5/8" is that you have to significantly increase the width when adding a clutch because of the spacer and then clutch drum. I don't think there is any way to get around it though.
Erich
Erich
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Hi Erich,
Please don't take this as a sales pitch, however the EZM Q-Matic drive is approx. 2" wide, and might be the thinnest of other options. We locate the American made Max Torque clutch at the rear of the drive, and therefore maintain a very thin profile. Another reason we locate the clutch in the rear is to avoid spinning the clutch weight at full motor speed. Bad news is price; as it is made in America [with expensive American parts & labor].
Good luck in your quest.
Have fun,
Please don't take this as a sales pitch, however the EZM Q-Matic drive is approx. 2" wide, and might be the thinnest of other options. We locate the American made Max Torque clutch at the rear of the drive, and therefore maintain a very thin profile. Another reason we locate the clutch in the rear is to avoid spinning the clutch weight at full motor speed. Bad news is price; as it is made in America [with expensive American parts & labor].
Good luck in your quest.
Have fun,
Hi uheruser, I would love to see the photos of your build. I think that this is kind of the way I wish to go. david h
if you take the tank and the tank mount off the top of the engine put 4 small washers the same size as the thickness of the tank mount under the valve cover bolts, you dont want to crank those bolts down without those new washers, Dave Staton told me that, good luck!