The On Going Build Of My Dyno Roadster

[Fulltimer]

The beginning: On Labor Day weekend I went to New Orleans. I made a little side trip in Alabama and picked up a Dyno Roadster. All 7.5' of it was in my Jeep Liberty! Its a good thing I don't have a back seat!

I got it home and started the tare down. I replaced the Ape hanger bars, rims and springer fork. During inspection of the bearings I decided I might as well get new ones. That is something I won't have to worry about now.

So now I have a naked frame! I took it to a friend of mine and he will weld on an engine mount. He is also making a gas tank that will fill in the space between the 2 upper bars going to the front end. He is also welding on the 2 legged kick stand.

Today I picked up a set of skate board wheels with bearings. These will be used for a chain tensioner. Another friend has a lathe at home and will turn down a section in the middle of the wheels for a chain guide.

When everything is done of the frame and fenders everything is off to be powder coated a bright red with very fine metal flake.

As soon as I get the frame back (before painting) I'll post some pictures of everything. So if anyone is interested they can follow along. Below is the bike before anything was done to it.

Terry

 

[Tad Bit Tipsy]

What engine are you slapping on that puppy? I replaced my ape hangers too, I could never get them tightened enough, so every time I slammed on the brakes they shifted forward. Its because they teeter up top, so they're bound to flip forward with any push. i find my moon handlebars much more comfortable during rides. Can't wait to see the build, L8R!

 

[Fulltimer]

The engine is the typical 2 stroker that we all use. I went with the 1/2 moon bars. I'm too old to be driving around with my arms up in the air on Ape Hangers! Today I'll take some picture and post them on here.

Terry

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

You should also weld in some small gusset plates on the new engine mount! Many frames crack from the vibrations right where the engine mount meets the down tube!

 

[Fulltimer]

You should also weld in some small gusset plates on the new engine mount! Many frames crack from the vibrations right where the engine mount meets the down tube!

Do you have any pictures of that? That way I could show my friend exactly what you mean.

Terry

 

[Fulltimer]

Here is a pic of the new springer and the skate board wheels.

Terry

 

[Fulltimer]

Okay, it appears the pic didn't upload. I'll try again.

Terry

Twice it said upload failed........CRAP!

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

It's kinda hard to see in this pic, but there's a small triangle plate thats welded from the front engine mount going down to the frame tube.
The first bike I built like this (without the gusset) cracked right where the two tubes meet. The chrome Dyno I built also cracked right there!

Here's a better pic of the frame...

 

[Fulltimer]

Great pics, thanks a lot!

Terry

 

[Fulltimer]

I picked up a pair of LED lights for headlights today.

Advance Auto Parts: Round Thinline White LED Racing Light Kit by Night Blaster - Part LS-116

Terry

 

[Fulltimer]

Yesterday a friend of mine gave me a Huffy bike that he was throwing away. Hmm, parts! He had "V" brakes front and back so now I have a set of them. He also had the quick disconnects for the seat and front tire, keeping them also. The rest I'll pitch.

If anyone wants anything off the bike you can have it for the shipping cost:

Huffy Triathlon Pro Iron Man
Titanium Boron Steel Frame
24" Aluminum Rims

All chrome parts are very rusted.

Terry

 

[RedB66]

"Quick disconnects for the seat" means that your seat can be stolen "Quickly"
Parts and Accessories

 

[Fulltimer]

I hadn't thought about that but your right. Thanks for the heads up.

Terry

 

[WildAlaskan]

saaaaweeeet bike im more of a mountain bike but when i have another build maybe something more low like this

 

[Fulltimer]

I made the brackets for the turn signals, headlight and tail light yesterday. There was a holdup on the build. The rims were back ordered but they are in now. The in frame gas tank is being built. Pretty soon, 2 to 3 weeks, it will go to the paint shop for a good powder coat of bright red with metal flakes.

Terry

 

[Fulltimer]

Here is an idea I'm playing with for the lights.

Terry

 

[WildAlaskan]

lookin good i personaly would have the rear spaced a little farther apart but should do fine

and i thought turn signals were a different color yellow rather than red well i guess it all depends ive seen both

whats the power source battery or somesort of generater the best would be a bateery with a generater to charge but i havent seen any 12 volt mags for sale

 

[Fulltimer]

After I took the picture I thought the same thing about the rear lights. I might just do that. The power source will be a 12v ATV/motorcycle battery. It will be charged with a regular battery charger every few days. The lights won't drain the battery very much being LED's.

Terry

 

[WildAlaskan]

well thats gonna be cool i know leds dont take much draw but when i build mine im thinking maybe i wont be home every couple of days i might be in the middle of now where

so heres a few thoughts i had a small portable charger a solor panel but they dont seem to have the umph for me a 12 volt tire generater and maybe a 12 volt generater somehow powered off the motor if i can figure it out

i wish i could find a 12 volt mag and cdi cause i would have stronger spark and ability to charge a lighing system

if someone were to market such mags and cdi combos they would be doing well and add options for high quality lighting kits

 

[RedB66]

Here's a 12V system that has worked good for me. Tucks up under seat and long lasting.
http://motorbicycling.com/f4/rechargeable-12v-power-supply-15870.html