Electrical Guru's Needed , Thoughts Wanted

R

r00t4rd3d

New Member
Electrical Guru's Needed , Thoughts Wanted - AC To DC

I just want to check and make sure I am doing this right cause Ive never done it to a MB only a dirt bike.

This is my plan.

White wire from engine to a regulator/rectifier combo to a battery to power lights. 6volts from white wire will charge the 6v battery.

Here is my setup :

Wiring Pigtail
76694875.jpg


6v Regulator/Rectifier Combo
83706560.jpg


6v Battery
73141544.jpg


The yellow wire coming off the reg/rec combo has me confused. The instructions in the pigtail picture say to run the yellow wire to lights or a light switch right ? But then it also says this :

NOTE!! the yellow wire coming out of the reg/rec never has it's own power it just "T's" into the yellow wire that comes from the engine's stator wire, that then goes to the headlight dimmer switch it takes excess voltage and delivers it back to ground. thus the regulator part of the regulator/rectifier...
Click to expand...

These instructions are for a lifan/honda engine and obviously I dont have a yellow wire coming from the engine.

Where do I run the yellow wire coming from the reg/rec ? Back to the white wire ? To my now DC headlight ? Tape it off ? Where do I send the excess voltage so it can be delivered back to ground ?
 
Last edited:
Highly unlikely your white wire delivers enough current. Probably the engine just won't start.

AFAIK - the yellow wire would be for your lights.....
 
But there will be no draw on the white wire cause my lights will be hooked directly to the battery ?

And it says the yellow wire from the reg/rec never has its own power ?

And the yellow wire is 6v AC current and my whole point of doing this is to convert to 6v dc.

:)

All the parts will be here today and I guess I will just start playing with them ....
 
Last edited:
Just get a $1 diode from Radio Shack. Hook the striped end of the diode to the 6v battery (+) and hook the other end of the diode to the white wire. Ground the 6v battery negative (-).

Even if you could get that regulator/rectifier to work, it is overkill. Why make it so complicated?

Run one end of your lights to the battery (+) through a switch and ground the other end.
 
A rectifier will charge the battery alot quicker then a diode.

If you are only using one diode you are only using half of the AC wave. You could be getting twice the charge (time, not voltage) with a full wave bridge rectifier
Click to expand...
 
r00t4rd3d said:
But there will be no draw on the white wire cause my lights will be hooked directly to the battery ?

And it says the yellow wire from the reg/rec never has its own power ?

And the yellow wire is 6v AC current and my whole point of doing this is to convert to 6v dc.

:)

All the parts will be here today and I guess I will just start playing with them ....
Click to expand...

I have no idea of the circuitry in your voltage regulator, but heck it's worth a shot. I'm just guessing if the load is too much or the impedance to ground is too low, it won't allow enough juice to spark. I actually hope I'm wrong!!
 
To charge a battery, the voltage needs to be slightly higher out of the charger than that of the battery. When I was working to make a D.C. light work from the white wire, I had problems with the diodes dropping the voltage by .7VDC and not having enough voltage to get good illumination.

You may get 7.5V out of the white wire, but only if you're running full throttle and only if your magneto is wound enough...

For decent illumination at any engine speed, I ended up just wiring my LED flashlight direct to the frame and the white wire. The LEDs rectify the voltage on their own and, when the engine is idling, the light flashes just like the safety lights they currently sell for bicycling. It flashes faster with speed and one quickly can't see the flashing with the eye.
 
r00t4rd3d said:
A rectifier will charge the battery alot quicker then a diode.
Click to expand...

True, but:
A full wave rectifier negatively affects the half cycle needed to fire the CDI. Try this experiment. Short the output of the rectifier to ground and it will kill the HT motor. Short the output of the single diode to ground and it still runs fine.
 
I wired straight to the battery just to test. I need to get some bullet connectors and wire tomorrow to hook everything up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top