clutch arm not normal

FileStyle

FileStyle

New Member
the clutch arm on a friends bike is pointing torward the rear hub when engaged and when disengaged it points to the other side of the bike beyond the seat stay! and then every time he rolls to a stop the engine dies. I adjusted the flower nut , but didnt seem to help! so my question is: Is there another way to adjust that arm other than the flower nut? it also seems that if it had a longer pin to actuate the clutch it would bring the arm to where it should be, pointing torward rear, slightly inward.:-||
 
Is there excessive free play in the cable? Have you guys checked the ramp, shaft & bearing?

While a longer arm would be able to give you more movement, the kit arm should do it - it makes me wonder if there's a piece malformed, missing, or just too short *shrug*

Got a pic of the clutch arm engaged/disengaged? Sounds like he's gettin' a heck of a lot of hand lever travel too - mine would never be able to pull that much cable lol
 
Does the arm come off the shaft? The way these work adding a longer pin won't help. Is it possible the shaft twisted?

Adjusting the flower nut will not do anything to help.
 
his clutch handle is very hard to squeeze in, the clutch does work, just seems to not be in the right position! and Iam thinking thats why the motor keeps dying. the clutch may still be engaged. in a top view the arm is pointing in the 2 o'clock position (engaged) and disengaged in the 1 o'clock position. I will try to get pics for you all so you can see. and maybe have a solution. the arm should be in a 3 'o clock position right? maybe in the
2:50-2:55 position.
 
As viewed from the bike sitting on the bike the cable end of the lever should start about the 5:45 position, and end (disengaged) at the 4:30 position.
 
gavmiester said:
theres a ball bearing in there some times falls out messing up the correct position of the arm.
Click to expand...
If the ball bearing is missing the clutch will not work at all.
Has anyone loosened the acorn nut that holds the clutch arm to the actuator?
Is it a stock (kit supplied) clutch actuator?
Get us a couple of photos. They'll help diagnose this problem.
Tom
 
The clock position, and the fact that the clutch lever is hard to pull would indicate that the pin is too short!

When I used to make the clutch actuator kits, this was a source of real aggravation. The pin lengths differ.

With the stock actuator a short pin will cause this problem. Remove the pin and measure the length.

Buy a 5/16" diameter, hardened, dowel pin from the hardware store that is slightly longer than the pin you have...1/8" longer.

The dowel pin will have one end that is slightly radiused and one end that is chamfered, (beveled). Grind the chamfered end until you get the correct clock position. Insert the pin ground end first, so that the radiused end is outbound. You want the actuator cam to rub on the radiused end for the best clutch lever action.

Jim
 
The arm is splined to the cam. The arm may have slipped on the splines which would also explain the problem. If the splines are stripped, there is going to be an underlying problem that has caused it.

Jim
 
Jim's advice is as usual, right on. The only things I'll add is if you can't locate a dowel pin you can use the shank of a 5/16" drill bit. I like to polish the contact surfaces of both the pin and the cam actuator. Also be sure to lubricate these parts before assembly. That includes the ball bearing, pin and cam. A little lube on the clutch cable inside the housing will also reduce friction and help make the clutch lever easier to pull.
Tom
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top