Installation Instructions?

S

speedster239

New Member
Howdy guys,
I just got my F80 kit from thatsdax.com which I ordered a few days ago. I see there is installation instructions on Dax's website, however they aren't too incredibly detailed :/. Are there any nice installation instructions here or somewhere else online, with photos perhaps, that cover one of Dax's motors or a similar two stroke?

All the best,
Vaughan
 
Thanks for the links guys!

So here's a question. How would you recommend I mount the gas tank if my rear brake and two shifter cables are routed on top of the frame where the tank should sit? I'd really prefer not to have to pull them all off and insert new cable sheeth over them, so I'm brainstorming different ways to get the tank on without disturbing their function.
 
speedster239 said:
Thanks for the links guys!

So here's a question. How would you recommend I mount the gas tank if my rear brake and two shifter cables are routed on top of the frame where the tank should sit? I'd really prefer not to have to pull them all off and insert new cable sheeth over them, so I'm brainstorming different ways to get the tank on without disturbing their function.
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I'm debating that too on my new MTB build. I am thinking the epoxy way on here. Just save your self alot of time and troubles, and order a hub adapter from jim.
 
For the top mount cables I just go to the bike shop and buy new cable housings and run them from the bars all the way back to the brakes or derailleur so they can be moved anywhere. Then I just grind off the old cable hard points on the frame and touch up with a little paint to keep them from rusting.
 
Turn your clamps over and mount them on top of the tube with small screws..It will give 1/4 inch under the tank for the cables.H.D.
 
I took some aluminum bar stock made a couple of half round grooves for the cable and a small hole for a pop rivet then these aluminum straps straddle the frame for the tank to sit on right where the tanks straps on I pop rivet the strap to the frame or to hold them in place you can use epoxy or double sided tape. the straps will space the tank just high enough for the cables to clear the tank
 
Help me here!

I've manually tried to push in the clutch arm on the engine. I push it to as far as it will go and it still seems like the bike is hooked to the drive train and not in a neutral stance.
 
Also, do you think that me turning the engine with the included sparkplug wrench with that nut inside where the small sprocket is could have caused this? I turned this engine this way to get the chain on.
 
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speedster239 said:
Also, do you think that me turning the engine with the included sparkplug wrench with that nut inside where the small sprocket is could have caused this? I turned this engine this way to get the chain on.
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Speedster,
To answer your question; No you didn't hurt anything. Sometimes the clutch friction pads are stuck from the factory and need a little encouragement to free them up. I've had good luck by removing the clutch actuator cover and striking the pin that protrudes from the engine drive sprocket with a plastic or brass headed hammer. Don't beat the heck out of it, just give that pin a good solid rap or two and usually that's enough to un-stick the stuck pads.
Tom
 
Thanks Tom,
I just pulled the clutch cover off and tapped around that flower nut with a hammer and a flathead screwdriver. I gave it one full turn to the left and then a half turn to the right. I tried to clutch and finally she loosened up :D. Thanks guys!

In the future, by the way, is there any better way to turn that flower nut other than with the hammer and screwdriver?

-Vaughan
 
I don't have much time as I'm tired right now, and tomorrow I will post some pictures and more recollections, however I would like to say thank you to all the forum members and thatsdax.com, because...

She runs! :D

Just a quick check here:

I purchased the Dax F80 kit (70 cc engine). Although it was labeled as the F80 kit on the cardboard box it shipped in, is there any way I can physically check on the engine to be sure it meets these specifications, ie a smaller size wasn't sent accidentally(just in case, you never know, ever)? Ie a stamping or something else?

And two, for my first tank of gas I mixed a 20:1 gas to oil ratio. I just poured 10 cups of gas into the tank and then a half cup of red colored synthetic two stroke engine oil. What should I move up to in terms of mix ratio after this first tank? 24:1?

Thanks guys!
 
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Also, in addition to the above, here is a quick question:
I know that on my two stroke Yamaha dirtbike I need to not only premix the oil in the gas to keep the crankcase and piston lubricated, but I ALSO need to pour oil into the transmission from time to time to keep the gears lubricated. How come on these motorized bicycle kits we don't need to do something similar to that? Is everything lubricated by the pre-mixed oil?
 
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