Clutch actuator upgrade

ChuckyT

New Member
Does anybody have for sell or know where I might find an after-market (reduced effort) clutch actuator that will fit a Raw Motors 80cc engine. Manic Mechanic did at one time but discontinued for some reason.drn2drn2
 
Does anybody have for sell or know where I might find an after-market (reduced effort) clutch actuator that will fit a Raw Motors 80cc engine. Manic Mechanic did at one time but discontinued for some reason.drn2drn2
Chucky,
There is a modification that you can easily do with your stock actuator that will reduce the effort needed to activate, (disengage) your clutch. You'll need access to a Dremel Tool, bench grinder with a buffing wheel and a few minutes of your time. I should really do a photo tutorial on this but I haven't had the time. Nevertheless here is a brief look at the project.
The parts that need attention are the clutch actuator cam, the part the clutch lever attaches to, and the pin which the cam presses against. From the factory these parts are very rough and there is considerable friction between them. Even when well lubricated the rough surfaces increase the effort of clutch actuation.
Remove the clutch actuator cover and then remove the cam from it by rotating it about 90 degrees and pulling it out of the housing. Remove the pin from the center of the engine drive sprocket. Using a Dremel, or other high speed grinding tool that will accept a sanding disc, carefully smooth the surfaces of the cam and the end of the pin. There's no need to get too aggressive and don't remove a lot of material. Just smooth the contacting surfaces and round off any sharp edges. This much will help but if you have a buffing wheel and some compound, polish the surfaces you smoothed with the sanding disc until they look like chrome. Clean and lubricate the cam and pin and reassemble. I think you'll be pleased with the results of your labor. In addition to this work you might want to lubricate the clutch cable and make sure there are no sharp bends or kinks in its length. Let us know how this works for you.
Tom
 
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I added a short piece of copper on to my stock arm, and swiveled it inward on the splines. It makes the pull much easier.
 

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And this is the very reason why I won't be making any more. The product I manufactured, (clutch actuator kit), made the clutch "sweet" to operate...

No offense Tom...none at all!!! Your input is always respected.

The forums are full of advice on how to make the clutch easier to pull. The truth is...the design is bad. No matter what you do...your clutch lever pull effort/clutch feel...will never equal the effect that my clutch kit offered.

Those that have it...love it!

Jim
 
get one from jim!!! forget about hack tricks bolt on some billet keep jim in buisness
In some cases, "hack tricks" are all a person can afford. For others doing it themselves and finding solutions to problems is more satisfying than writing a check. Jim makes a good product but its not the only route available.
Tom
 
Tom is right!

Motorizing a bike is for most builders a hobby...a hobby that is very rewarding during the build.

I've been working on a U-finish-it line of products...The work that requires heavy, or specialized equipment would be done. The builder would finish it using home tools to make the item custom for their bike.

Jim
 
My clutch operates as good as any of the clutches I've had in the past of several motobikes. Unknown what makes my cheapo ebay noname kit so special.
 
My clutch operates as good as any of the clutches I've had in the past of several motobikes. Unknown what makes my cheapo ebay noname kit so special.

The first MB I put together had a VERY stiff clutch lever. I called the supplier and was told that it was normal for these engines. I called several other suppliers and they confirmed the same thing...saying that about 1/2 of the engine kits they recieved had extremely tight clutches. Several suppliers said that a fix would sell. So without doing any further homework I made 250 units. It took a year to sell them.

The following month I signed on to the forum, and read the threads that referred to this problem. It was obvious that several fixes had already been discussed extensively.

The clutch kits were very time consuming to make...the time is better spent making parts that solve a difficult problem.

I should have worded my previous post on this thread differently, as it was unfair to 2-door who was simply trying to help.

I decided not to make any more clutch kits for several reasons.

1) The percieved value vs. cost is the number one make or break criteria for any product. Given that there are low, or no, cost ways to fix the problem; sales of this product will never justify another 250 unit run.

2) There have been comments as to whether or not these particular engines will be available in the near future. At this point, the last thing I need is obsolete inventory.

The fact that forum members help others by suggesting fixes had nothing to do with whether or not another run of the product would be made.

Jim
 
I have 2 resolutions if you haven't tried might help:
1. Chunk that stupid return spring on the actuator side of the standoff as far as the East is from the West it ain't needed plenty of return spring in the inards of the clutch assembly.
2. Get your sister to squeeze it for ya LOL
 
I shoulda said operating the clutch seems of good quality however the clutch itself is pitiful compared to a normal motorcycle clutch.
 
I tried a slightly different approach. Instead of messing with the clutch and the law of unintended consequences. I got rid of the spring that they had you put between the cable stop and the actuator arm then added an extra long lever clutch handle that gives me a mechanical advantage over the beast. You can't lock it but it is much stronger than the pot metal lever that comes with the kit anyway.
 

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great idea I rotated my actuator arm on the splines too works great some arms are very hard to remove from splines the extension is also great idea . All kits shouls come this way
 
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