hello new guy on the seen i'm hooked and lovin it. i'm ah car mechanic by trade and i got in to bikes one day now i'm ah partner in a bike shop. one day a customer walk in with this bike all pimped out with this motor. at first i though i was a joke in till he had ask me to ride it to trouble shoot a problem. by the time i had came back i had a smile on my face.that only a child should have. so enough with the chit chat lets get to some trouble shooting
Can anyone diagnose this?
- Thread starter MasonMcD
- Start date
Got the new CDI (ignition). Wasn't that. So now I'm on to the magneto. It may have gotten water in the housing. Called the gasbike.net guys, and they are of the opinion that it's almost always the magneto.
Here's the magneto: Bike Motor Sparker Wire Loop Set Parts - Motorized Bike Sparker Wire Loop Set Parts - Bike Motor Sparker Wire Loop Set Parts - Motorized Bike Parts
It goes in the housing in front of the clutch arm.
I notice that it's nearly always the magento too. However too many to count the times people replace the CDI first here on this forum and wonder why it still ain't fixed. I guess that's because the CDI is out in the open but the magneto is under that cover.
You think they might learn reading all these posts, but Ooohhhhhh... Noooooooo....
Thanks for giving me a picture Mason. That helps me a lot. So all I have to do it take off the front cover (not the clutch cover) and that's where the magneto is? I don't see how it could have ever got water on it. I suppose it could have happened before I received it. Am I hurting this motor if I ride it this way just a little to show some friends?
Thanks for the help fellas.
Thanks for the help fellas.
Yup. There are four screws holding it in (one has the ground attached), and it's magnetic, so you kind of have to jiggle it off.
I don't know that it does any damage to the engine. Doesn't seem like it would.
A few seconds with a multimeter. If windings are not dead short or open it's good to go.
Check your gas mix first before tearing your bike apart, Make sure your gas/oil ratio is correct and that you have NO WATER in your your fuel system.Drain your tank and flush it with a bit of Methyl hydrate or fuel conditioner and take off the carb, undo the float bowl and clean it out too. I have never run into any electrical issues with mine other than the coil wire kept coming loose so I replaced the connector. Any other loss of power or sputterin has been from water/condensation in my fuel system and its easier to change than to try and run through the system.
Thanks. I appreciate that.
But I Just put gas in my tank last night for the first time. Before that I had sprayed air inside of it and washed it out with gas 3 weeks ago. I had the cap on it the whole time. Could I still get water in there that way?
When you say your coil kept coming loose.. what do you mean? What coil? I'm a little new to engines.
I put in a mixture of 30:1 for my fuel. Is that ok? From all the threads it seemed like everyone kind of does theirs a little different and are ok.
thanks again.
But I Just put gas in my tank last night for the first time. Before that I had sprayed air inside of it and washed it out with gas 3 weeks ago. I had the cap on it the whole time. Could I still get water in there that way?
When you say your coil kept coming loose.. what do you mean? What coil? I'm a little new to engines.
I put in a mixture of 30:1 for my fuel. Is that ok? From all the threads it seemed like everyone kind of does theirs a little different and are ok.
thanks again.
"But I Just put gas in my tank last night for the first time."
Do you mean the first time or the second time--if its the first time................
Do you mean the first time or the second time--if its the first time................
I replaced the magneto and that did the trick. This is the very first motorbike I've had running so I'm not sure if it sounds like it's supposed to. When I have the clutch in it sounds like I'd think it should. But when I'm driving it it sounds quite a bit squeeky. I'm not sure how to describe the sound really. Does everyone elses bikes sound different when riding as opposed to when you're stopped and lightly reving the engine?
thanks
thanks
Hi rfriesen -
Good for you, you got it running!
Noises.... I had the same concern. It seems like each engine can be indentified by the unique squeeks, scrapes, and pings that it makes. I have heard a lot of them. Learn them. If a noise changes or a new one developes, become creative to determine what the new noise might me. Something coming undone? There are many noises to describe.
A few simple suggestions while learning your bike: Keep an eye on the chain; make sure sprocket are aligned and the tensioner bolts are checked before each ride for a while, then every other ride or so after a while. Chain or tensioner failure will cause catastrophic failure and wheel damage.
Also: every few rides or so, pull off the right-side engine cover and make sure the small gear screw is tight. A couple of us have found that screw can (but rarely) work itself loose. It starts scraping against the inside of the gear cover.
Check all bolts, nuts, and screws for tightness every ride for a while, then every few rides thereafter. I am convinced that these engines will vibrate themselves apart if given enough time.
Have fun riding!
MikeJ
760 highway miles and counting.
Good for you, you got it running!
Noises.... I had the same concern. It seems like each engine can be indentified by the unique squeeks, scrapes, and pings that it makes. I have heard a lot of them. Learn them. If a noise changes or a new one developes, become creative to determine what the new noise might me. Something coming undone? There are many noises to describe.
A few simple suggestions while learning your bike: Keep an eye on the chain; make sure sprocket are aligned and the tensioner bolts are checked before each ride for a while, then every other ride or so after a while. Chain or tensioner failure will cause catastrophic failure and wheel damage.
Also: every few rides or so, pull off the right-side engine cover and make sure the small gear screw is tight. A couple of us have found that screw can (but rarely) work itself loose. It starts scraping against the inside of the gear cover.
Check all bolts, nuts, and screws for tightness every ride for a while, then every few rides thereafter. I am convinced that these engines will vibrate themselves apart if given enough time.
Have fun riding!
MikeJ
760 highway miles and counting.
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Thanks. I'll keep an eye on that stuff.
I actually did have an issue I'm a little concerned about. I mixed my gas/oil at 40/1. I was getting an oil substance dripping out of my muffler. While I was looking at that I noticed some air bubbles around my spark plug. I put more gas in the tank to increase it to probably 55/1 mixture. I took the plug off and it was covered in a black oil. I cleaned it off with a rag and tightened it back on. Started the bike back up. after running for a while no smoke or oil was coming out the exhause and no air leaks on the spark plug. Was it just the spark plug air leak causing this or was it my gas/oil mix?
I actually did have an issue I'm a little concerned about. I mixed my gas/oil at 40/1. I was getting an oil substance dripping out of my muffler. While I was looking at that I noticed some air bubbles around my spark plug. I put more gas in the tank to increase it to probably 55/1 mixture. I took the plug off and it was covered in a black oil. I cleaned it off with a rag and tightened it back on. Started the bike back up. after running for a while no smoke or oil was coming out the exhause and no air leaks on the spark plug. Was it just the spark plug air leak causing this or was it my gas/oil mix?
Hi rfriesen -
If you are running el cheapo 2-cycle oil for AIR cooled engines (not the more expensive synthetic oil), I recommend you increase the oil concentration to around 24:1 if your engine is still in the break-in phase. It is normal for that black oily goo to drip out of the exhaust pipe. The oil does not burn; it condenses in the muffler. Its only purpose to to provide lubrication to moving parts, such as needle roller bearings, lay down a thin film for between the cylinder and cast iron piston rings, and a few more places. A new engine need extra lubrication in life until the moving parts "seat" against non-moving parts. Without extra lubrication, you risk early, permanent engine damage, such as scored cylinder walls. Some riders recommend 16:1 oil ratios. That will not hurt the engine, either. They are just spraying for mosquitoes.
On one bike I have, I remain at 24:1, even though it has only 125 miles on it. Goo still drips out of it. I consider that normal.
On my bike, I switched to full synthetic Amsoil Saber (only because I could easily find it) about 220 miles ago, but after break-in. I have been running my bike pretty hard at times at 50:1. There is no goo.
Sparkplug air leakage... In your case, maybe oil in the threads and a little bit more torque on the plug provided a better seal. Air leakage should not occur, but it did on my bike as well. I used a light coating of thread sealer (NOT thread locker; it is very different) to seal the base of the plug against the cylinder head. I think I got a little tube of sealer from Auto Zone. If you want to try it: Place a light bead on the upper two or three threads farthest from the firing tip. If the sealer oozes a bit from the plug seat upon tighting, that is good.
Black plug tip... That results from the factory-provided main jet in the carburator. Its orifice size is two or three sizes too big. I recommend you research a few threads for additional information before doing anything to the main jet. The too-big main jet is allowing excessive fuel into the cylinder. Not all the fuel burns completely, and little amounts of carbon result. It either goes out the pipe and mixes with unburned oil to produce that black goo, or the carbon deposits itself on surfaces, such as your cylinder head, piston head, spark plug, etc. I have the same thing; it does not bother me. I clean the spark plug once in a while with a wire brush, but there is no noticeable increase in performance. Lately, I have been ignoring it. I will pull the plug for inspection if my bike engine will not start.
I strongly encourage wearing good head gear! I wear a full motorcycle helmet on every ride. Have fun riding!
Mike J
If you are running el cheapo 2-cycle oil for AIR cooled engines (not the more expensive synthetic oil), I recommend you increase the oil concentration to around 24:1 if your engine is still in the break-in phase. It is normal for that black oily goo to drip out of the exhaust pipe. The oil does not burn; it condenses in the muffler. Its only purpose to to provide lubrication to moving parts, such as needle roller bearings, lay down a thin film for between the cylinder and cast iron piston rings, and a few more places. A new engine need extra lubrication in life until the moving parts "seat" against non-moving parts. Without extra lubrication, you risk early, permanent engine damage, such as scored cylinder walls. Some riders recommend 16:1 oil ratios. That will not hurt the engine, either. They are just spraying for mosquitoes.
On one bike I have, I remain at 24:1, even though it has only 125 miles on it. Goo still drips out of it. I consider that normal.
On my bike, I switched to full synthetic Amsoil Saber (only because I could easily find it) about 220 miles ago, but after break-in. I have been running my bike pretty hard at times at 50:1. There is no goo.
Sparkplug air leakage... In your case, maybe oil in the threads and a little bit more torque on the plug provided a better seal. Air leakage should not occur, but it did on my bike as well. I used a light coating of thread sealer (NOT thread locker; it is very different) to seal the base of the plug against the cylinder head. I think I got a little tube of sealer from Auto Zone. If you want to try it: Place a light bead on the upper two or three threads farthest from the firing tip. If the sealer oozes a bit from the plug seat upon tighting, that is good.
Black plug tip... That results from the factory-provided main jet in the carburator. Its orifice size is two or three sizes too big. I recommend you research a few threads for additional information before doing anything to the main jet. The too-big main jet is allowing excessive fuel into the cylinder. Not all the fuel burns completely, and little amounts of carbon result. It either goes out the pipe and mixes with unburned oil to produce that black goo, or the carbon deposits itself on surfaces, such as your cylinder head, piston head, spark plug, etc. I have the same thing; it does not bother me. I clean the spark plug once in a while with a wire brush, but there is no noticeable increase in performance. Lately, I have been ignoring it. I will pull the plug for inspection if my bike engine will not start.
I strongly encourage wearing good head gear! I wear a full motorcycle helmet on every ride. Have fun riding!
Mike J
Note that more oil causes engines to run HOTTER not cooler. And more oil also means fuel mixture is LEAN not rich. Pretty much the opposite of what everybody thinks.
I've been using Walmart Supertech at 50:1 for several years on many bikes with no seizure or other problems. And no black trail behind to let everyone know where I've been.
I've been using Walmart Supertech at 50:1 for several years on many bikes with no seizure or other problems. And no black trail behind to let everyone know where I've been.
Thanks Mike and xlite. I don't recal the brand but it comes in a little yellow bottle from Advance Auto. It's a blue-ish green oil. Maybe they all are.
I did have thread seal on my plug but you're right, I just needed to tighten it a little more.
Now, you guys will probably scold me for this but.. I added unmixed gas to the tank (unmeasured) until the smoke in the exhaust was barely there. I thought better of it and added more oil (to the tank and unmeasured) until a little more smoke came back. I swished the tank around quite a bit after adding the oil. So I'm not sure what ratio I have in there right now. It just seemed like the easiest way to fine tune my "break in" tank of gas and oil.
After swishing the tank around. I went for a ride and about 1/4 mile away the bike reved up (on it's own) and died. I started it back up rode for 20 feet and it did the same thing again. I looked at the fuel line and noticed it was half empty. I opened up the tank cap and fuel flowed into the line. So, my tank cap wasn't letting air and creating a vacuum. I think this may have been cause by swishing gas around in the tank and getting too much gas into the tank cap. I think.
I did have thread seal on my plug but you're right, I just needed to tighten it a little more.
Now, you guys will probably scold me for this but.. I added unmixed gas to the tank (unmeasured) until the smoke in the exhaust was barely there. I thought better of it and added more oil (to the tank and unmeasured) until a little more smoke came back. I swished the tank around quite a bit after adding the oil. So I'm not sure what ratio I have in there right now. It just seemed like the easiest way to fine tune my "break in" tank of gas and oil.
After swishing the tank around. I went for a ride and about 1/4 mile away the bike reved up (on it's own) and died. I started it back up rode for 20 feet and it did the same thing again. I looked at the fuel line and noticed it was half empty. I opened up the tank cap and fuel flowed into the line. So, my tank cap wasn't letting air and creating a vacuum. I think this may have been cause by swishing gas around in the tank and getting too much gas into the tank cap. I think.