Breaking-in a new engine

meowy84

Member
I got my engine from PowerKing about 3 months ago but haven't had the time to install it. Over the last two weeks I've finally gotten around to getting a frame ready, stripped and painted and all that and I'll be mounting the engine this week sometime.

Anyhow, my question deals with the break-in procedure. The instructions that came with the kit call for a non-synthetic 2 stroke oil for the brean-in. Most of the oil for the gas mix sold in most stores is now synthetic or semi-synthetic and it's hard to find non-synthetic. But I found an S2 oil which the chainsaw store guy says is non-synhtetic. It is pricey though at almost $10 per quart compared to $2 or $3 for the synthetic stuff.

Anyways, so do you guys use the non-synhtetic stuff for break-in to help seat the rings and such?

In additio to the usual greasing of the chain and sprockets and clutch lever and taking it easy for the first few miles of riding, what what other preparations should I make. In another post I read to take off the side covers and check for metal shavings from the machining and casting process so that's what I'll be doing. But my concerns is also metal shavings in the crankcase itself. I would like to avoid splitting the crankcase to check for any irregularities since I want to avoid leaks or ruining the gaskets.

What about prelubing the engine before the initial start by squirting oil into the combustion chamber and crankcase to lube the cylinder walls and bearings and such?

Thanks in advance foe all the comments. Cheers.
 
And so it starts again. My opinion synthetic is fine, ive broken it my motor this way and it goes just fine and ive never seen smoke from the exhaust.
 
Putting a teaspoon of oil down the sparkplug hole could not hurt.

I recommend getting the better quality engine hardware kit from SBP and install it before you install the engine in the frame. Way too many folks have bolt failure soon after getting the bike together.
 
I agree with Gearnut, I used valvoline for air cooled 2 strokes during breakin. I have joined the Opti-2 crowd now. My next motor with be run with Opti-2 from day one. Do not split the cases. Do put a little grease on the right side gears. The main thing is not to run the motor to hard for the first tank full and not to easy after that. You need to set the rings to stop blowby. Everyone has a different opinion on this. I have over 2000 miles on my motor and it's still running very strong.
 
Run it hard but very load on the engine and engine rpm. Don't want anything to be constant (load/rpm). I'm fortunate that I live in a hilly area and I run it full throttle uphill and then full throttle on straightaway and lower throttle on downhill portion. Engine gets a great workout throughout its rpm and load range.

No better way to get this rings seated. Its combustion pressure that pushes the rings against the cylinder wall. If you pamper it for the first tank, the rings will not seal as they should.

For oil: Maxima 927 at 32:1 is all you will ever need. Once broken in, you can then go to 40-50:1 without any worries. I speak from exeperience.
 
You can get Valvoline Multi-Purpose 2-cycle engine oil
at auto parts store . I believe it is TC-W3 certified non
synthetic, if you choose to go that way. I broke in 2
engines using it before switching to synthetic.
 
I got my engine from PowerKing about 3 months ago but haven't had the time to install it. Over the last two weeks I've finally gotten around to getting a frame ready, stripped and painted and all that and I'll be mounting the engine this week sometime.

Anyhow, my question deals with the break-in procedure. The instructions that came with the kit call for a non-synthetic 2 stroke oil for the brean-in. Most of the oil for the gas mix sold in most stores is now synthetic or semi-synthetic and it's hard to find non-synthetic. But I found an S2 oil which the chainsaw store guy says is non-synhtetic. It is pricey though at almost $10 per quart compared to $2 or $3 for the synthetic stuff.

Anyways, so do you guys use the non-synhtetic stuff for break-in to help seat the rings and such?

In additio to the usual greasing of the chain and sprockets and clutch lever and taking it easy for the first few miles of riding, what what other preparations should I make. In another post I read to take off the side covers and check for metal shavings from the machining and casting process so that's what I'll be doing. But my concerns is also metal shavings in the crankcase itself. I would like to avoid splitting the crankcase to check for any irregularities since I want to avoid leaks or ruining the gaskets.

What about prelubing the engine before the initial start by squirting oil into the combustion chamber and crankcase to lube the cylinder walls and bearings and such?

Thanks in advance foe all the comments. Cheers.

I used a non-synth Pennzoil .....initial break-in of a gallon..( two tank fulls )...at a ratio of 16:1
after that backed off with the same oil at 32:1.....the first batch did indeed smoke a tad....not that much though....ran rough for a bit......but I tell ya....it's broken in now and simply * The Scream*




Laters,
Saltybrnot
 

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I used a non-synth Pennzoil .....initial break-in of a gallon..( two tank fulls )...at a ratio of 16:1
after that backed off with the same oil at 32:1.....the first batch did indeed smoke a tad....not that much though....ran rough for a bit......but I tell ya....it's broken in now and simply * The Scream*




Laters,
Saltybrnot

was it 2stroke or regular oil...the best i have found is 2 stroke marine full synthytic...????Dennis
 
was it 2stroke or regular oil...the best i have found is 2 stroke marine full synthytic...????Dennis

Be carefull of marine grade 2-stroke oils. All but a few very old marine engines I have seen are water cooled (the water you are floating in).
Air cooled engines operate at different temperatures than water cooled engines and typically require an oil matched to the task.
 
Be carefull of marine grade 2-stroke oils. All but a few very old marine engines I have seen are water cooled (the water you are floating in).
Air cooled engines operate at different temperatures than water cooled engines and typically require an oil matched to the task.

THANK YOU...Dennis
 
Run it hard but very load on the engine and engine rpm. Don't want anything to be constant (load/rpm). I'm fortunate that I live in a hilly area and I run it full throttle uphill and then full throttle on straightaway and lower throttle on downhill portion. Engine gets a great workout throughout its rpm and load range.

No better way to get this rings seated. Its combustion pressure that pushes the rings against the cylinder wall. If you pamper it for the first tank, the rings will not seal as they should.

this should be a sticky!
 
Be carefull of marine grade 2-stroke oils. All but a few very old marine engines I have seen are water cooled (the water you are floating in).
Air cooled engines operate at different temperatures than water cooled engines and typically require an oil matched to the task.

Walmart Supertech Marine oil has proven to be very reliable in my case. Used at 50:1 from the start my engines have excellent power and very long life. One engine 14k and only now starting to lose compression.
 
Long ago I used Pennzoil 2-stroke which is what all the airplane guys recommend but switched to Walmart marine because it was 1/5 the cost and just as good.

I'm about to try synthetic for the first time just to see if any of there's anything to those claims of magic performance increase. Last week rep said he's stop by with a bottle of Dominator but not yet. Might have to give him a call.
 
Xlite theres no majic involved its science bro, synthetics have better antifriction properties to increase the moving parts life from wear. Synthetics also help to cool the motor better due to better heat disapation in 4 strokes.
 
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is it just me or is castrol bean oil the only option. is it really a two stroke if it doesn't smell like bean oil?
 
Thanks for the info guys. Looks like there's a few oil brands/types that I can safely use for the initial break-in. I'll have to check which ones are sold in my local stores. Thanks again. :)
 
Speaking of bean oil , I use the stuff in my nitro model airplane glow engines...as high as 20%-25% castor content is recommended for some of my older lapped iron/steel piston and liner engines. Even thought the model fuel you buy already has castor oil in it I have to buy castor oil in little bottles from my local pharmacy and add to the nitro fuel I buy at my hobby shop since the new model engines with their aluminum pistons and brass or chromed liners typically need much less oil content. Since the castor oil itself doesn't burn boy is it ever messy coming out!

Also before the advent of 'modern science' old motorcycles and cars from the teens and twenties had to use castor as lubricant.

Nothing to do with our bikes but I thought I'd add that little tidbit anyhow. LOL
 
Run it hard but very load on the engine and engine rpm. Don't want anything to be constant (load/rpm). I'm fortunate that I live in a hilly area and I run it full throttle uphill and then full throttle on straightaway and lower throttle on downhill portion. Engine gets a great workout throughout its rpm and load range.

No better way to get this rings seated. Its combustion pressure that pushes the rings against the cylinder wall. If you pamper it for the first tank, the rings will not seal as they should.

For oil: Maxima 927 at 32:1 is all you will ever need. Once broken in, you can then go to 40-50:1 without any worries. I speak from exeperience.
i thought that you were suppose to run 28:1....im new to this so my mind is open to learn, tech me please if im wrong
 
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