What speed do u cruize at on open road?

GoldenMotor.com

Junster

New Member
Jun 2, 2009
445
0
0
Washington St.
Zoom 80 HT Slanthead, Shift kit running 10 tooth, Expansion Chamber, Custom Intake, K&N, Stock carb. Shimano DT Deore rear hub. Servas Survivors City Drifters, inverse tread, 26" 60psi rear. 50 psi front. Good brakes, Duel pull lever. I run the road up to 40mph at the speed limit right in the traffic. Can do over 40 only with a strong tail wind but I weigh about 220 and I'm 6'4". Helmet & Eye protection always.
 

Earthman

New Member
Mar 24, 2009
82
0
0
Pittsburgh, PA
Wow,you guys are starting to make me wonder about my sanity(if I have any)....I ride my bike on roads posted 55 mph or higher all day long,I drive on city streets with no curb(I just expect the drivers to move over a few inches when they go by....I have never had a problem....I use my rearview mirror continuously to see whats coming up behind me....My cruising speed is around 25 to30mph(44 tooth srocket),sometimes I will take it up to 35 or so....
John.shft.
What worries me is most drivers drive too close to the car in front. This restricts their view. If they would back off to a safe distance, they’d be able to see what’s happening ahead of them. Since they don’t, you can’t count on being seen. In fact, if such a driver drifts over to the right a foot or two, that’s where you will be on your bike. See attached illustration.
 

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Nashville Kat

Well-Known Member
Apr 20, 2009
1,501
55
48
Jacksonville, Florida
I gotta get a speedo soon or have somebody follow in a car-

with a 36t (I've got a 32 coming to try) and now also a 27 X 1/14 wheel on the front, and a 1.75 smooth tread cruiser wheel still on the back, my 66 must be getting up to about 40 if I push- But I'm just guessing.

But that's really faster than I want to go! I raced USCF for a number of years and know too well what going down on pavement is like- now at 55 years, I don't want to find out again-

So for me- the goal is to get a good decent cruise of 25- 30 mph without opening up the motor much- those last whining revs never seem to make that much difference.

I'm going to be almost entirely on the flat, on short trips of several miles (I still don't trust the reliability). Every time I've gone to a thinner tire, it's made a big difference (from 2.25 down to 1.75, and now a front of 1 1/4" width, and i may still change the back one too (But spending too much time fiddling with this- I got to play some guitar too!)

The vibration really came down once the beach cruiser knobbys were gone.

the 1 1/4 tires are as thin as I'll go- I think one inch too narrow- you need SOME rubber on the rim in case of blowout- (and I raced always on sew-ups)- and for traction- cause with the motor and the fuel- the bikes more top heavy and NOT as responsive-

The bigger wheel runs smoother over small ruts, but a big rock can be trouble, and I'm DEFINITELY not going to fly through any corners at any speed. The thinner tires make for a much easier and more natural pedal approaching the road bike standard I'm used to.

And I'm goning to be staying on the road- most people may want to stay with 26" wheels- unless they want to get real efficiency, and be careful otherwise.

I ALWAYS wear a helmet with the motor- one has literally saved my life in racing.

And when I put the big wheel on the front- I also put on a Campy road brake- What a difference over the cruiser cantilever- it really adds some safety.
 
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cyclepro101

New Member
May 13, 2009
129
0
0
NEWCASTLE
I gotta get a speedo soon or have somebody follow in a car-

with a 36t (I've got a 32 coming to try) and now also a 27 X 1/14 wheel on the front, and a 1.75 smooth tread cruiser wheel still on the back, my 66 must be getting up to about 40 if I push- But I'm just guessing.

But that's really faster than I want to go! I raced USCF for a number of years and know too well what going down on pavement is like- now at 55 years, I don't want to find out again-

So for me- the goal is to get a good decent cruise of 25- 30 mph without opening up the motor much- those last whining revs never seem to make that much difference.

I'm going to be almost entirely on the flat, on short trips of several miles (I still don't trust the reliability). Every time I've gone to a thinner tire, it's made a big difference (from 2.25 down to 1.75, and now a front of 1 1/4" width, and i may still change the back one too (But spending too much time fiddling with this- I got to play some guitar too!)

The vibration really came down once the beach cruiser knobbys were gone.

the 1 1/4 tires are as thin as I'll go- I think one inch too narrow- you need SOME rubber on the rim in case of blowout- (and I raced always on sew-ups)- and for traction- cause with the motor and the fuel- the bikes more top heavy and NOT as responsive-

The bigger wheel runs smoother over small ruts, but a big rock can be trouble, and I'm DEFINITELY not going to fly through any corners at any speed. The thinner tires make for a much easier and more natural pedal approaching the road bike standard I'm used to.

And I'm goning to be staying on the road- most people may want to stay with 26" wheels- unless they want to get real efficiency, and be careful otherwise.

I ALWAYS wear a helmet with the motor- one has literally saved my life in racing.

And when I put the big wheel on the front- I also put on a Campy road brake- What a difference over the cruiser cantilever- it really adds some safety.
I used to race USCF too. I am the same, I just like running the 36t and not flogging the motor too much. 40km/h is fast enough. I can squirt mine to 60km/h but there is no need IMO.
 

Earthman

New Member
Mar 24, 2009
82
0
0
Pittsburgh, PA
I wouldn't trust the strength of a bicycle frame at the speeds some folks mention here and elsewhere. A bicycle's joints and frame members weren't designed to carry the loads or absorb the impact forces that such loads and speeds create going over even small bumps. The longer and faster you ride, and the more bumps you go over, the faster the frame will fail from fatigue if nothing else. The frame only has so many loading cycles in it, and I doubt anyone can tell you how long a frame will last under your particular riding conditions. My MB tops out at 24 MPH (about 40 KPH) on the flat with a tailwind, and that speed is quite thrilling knowing the above. I suggest that if you need speed, move onto something that was designed for it. No disrespect intended, but everyone will be better off if you do.
 
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cyclepro101

New Member
May 13, 2009
129
0
0
NEWCASTLE
Agree. I think there comes a point where these things stop being motorized PUSH bikes and become full on motorbikes. I find 35 to 40 km/s more than fast enough., and I have a high quality mountain bike too, with hydro disk brakes and oversize Alu frame and I still get very nervous over these speeds, and I have raced bikes on the road for years too.

Steve
 
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Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
11,837
252
63
up north now
I wouldn't trust the strength of a bicycle frame at the speeds some folks mention here and elsewhere. A bicycle's joints and frame members weren't designed to carry the loads or absorb the impact forces that such loads and speeds create going over even small bumps. The longer and faster you ride, and the more bumps you go over, the faster the frame will fail from fatigue if nothing else. The frame only has so many loading cycles in it, and I doubt anyone can tell you how long a frame will last under your particular riding conditions. My MB tops out at 24 MPH (about 40 KPH) on the flat with a tailwind, and that speed is quite thrilling knowing the above. I suggest that if you need speed, move onto something that was designed for it. No disrespect meant, but everyone will be better off if you do.
Well said fo'sho'!
 

5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
2,661
240
63
I have a friction setup and with a 1" 1/8th roller I cruise at about 20 to 25 mph on the side streets. On the major streets Im on the side walk going 10 to 15 mph. Unless theres a dedicated white line defined bike path on a major street I dont ride on them, I value my life too much. This bike will max out at 40 mph though if you want it too.
Did you know that your engine's rpm at 40mph will be over 13,500rpm? Which engine are you using?

I also have friction drive, 1.375" roller and a 5hp GP460 engine. The bike has enough spunk to shoot past 50mph. 45mph(72kph)at over 12,400rpm is the fastest I've gone, with more throttle left.

That's on flat ground with no tailwind. xct2

On a crowded highway 35mph is very comfortable. That's with taking the whole lane.

I trust the integrity of my nearly new Giant mountain bike. It's not going to fold up like an accordion on the streets. If the bike was made to handle mountain trails, it'll easily handle paved roads.
 
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bandito

New Member
May 22, 2009
783
0
0
colorado
5-7 I dont have a speedo but by judging other cars and with the speed limit at 40 a few times that I tried WOT I was able to keep up with them, the motor is a honda gx50 with 26 in wheels.
 
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5-7HEAVEN

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2008
2,661
240
63
Honda GX50? That's a GREAT engine!

Methinks your engine would come alive with a 1.375" roller.dance1

Get yourself a $20 Cateye speedometer. You'll feel proud of your bike's performance.
 
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