Dad's mount idea, I like!

that would work if you used clamps.(i think) put a couple of tacks on the clamps or the u part of the clamp 9to the bar)

Hold on a minute,your dad's idea is ok and all, but you are talking quite a bit of welding to make that extra piece of pipe work.

My current build is exactly the same bike you have,take a look at how I mounted the front of the motor,since Im a welder by trade it was easy to fabricate it.But if you dont want to weld anything try to use a piece of flat stock. Drill two holes for the motor mounts ,then drill two more holes wide enough for a u-bolt to wrap around your frame. Then put part in a vice and bend it just right for your proper clearance.

Another issue with this bike is the rag joint,you will not have clearance for the brake arm,your easiest bet is to purchase new bolts with round heads that have an allen or Philips head to them ,this will give you clearance for the brake arm,But on my build since I have access to a tig welder I just welded my sprocket to the wheel. Which works but I dont recommend that.

Hope that's not galvanized pipe or you're looking to kill someone before their time...

I would also start with the engine mounted to the front tube with one of those adapter plates that comes with a u-bolt, so your carb starts out more level...

Eric, Take a look @ this mornings tread titled " $2 front mount Fix for Cruiser Frames " this guy made a great idea out of a Hockey Puck,,, imagine that!! Later Dirty

Too be honest Eric, my cruiser was my most difficult build,the rag joint was the worst and the rear wheel fit up was a nightmare.
Good luck with your dad and your new build

2door said:

Eric,
Tell your dad that the rear mount should be the guide and to make the front mount fit whatever angle the rear dictates.

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This is good advice

2door said:

Also stay away from ANY rubber or resilient material between the motor and frame. That's asking for trouble in the way of broken fasteners down the road. You'll want the engine mounted as solid to the frame as you can get it with no gaps or looseness. Mount it solid. This is not just my opinion but has been tried and proven by many EXPERIENCED builders.

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This is not %100 correct even my car has rubber on its motor mounts,but I can understand why you feel this way. Maybe In time I will remove it from my mount. Mainly due to appearance rather than function

2door said:

By experienced, I mean check the number of posts those people have. Listen to the voice of experience and you'll be miles ahead of the game.

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This is why I usually do not offer any advice here,you think your experienced at building simple 2 and 4 stroke modified bicycles cause you make alot of posts ? Thats non sense. But hey if it makes you feel better by saying that then no skin off my nose.

2door said:

Do not, under any circumstances weld the sprocket to the rear hub. The kit supplied rag joint will suffice IF installed properly and you have no wobble in the sprocket after installation.
Tom

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The rag joint will suffice ,yes. But there are better ways to build a mouse trap. Most people do not have the skills to tig fuse weld a sprocket to a hub. Welding it is a permanent fix for a problem area,It does work . Just cause you do not agree on it does not mean no one should do it . So i think what you said was not correct. But hey who am i ? I dont have many posts here so I am not as "experienced " as you ?

Geez 2door cut me some slack here buddy

Actually...

The soft mount idea has been experimented with relentlessly and as even the slightest attempt to research will show, it's proponents are overlooking one small detail - that "rubber" mounted applications such as automobiles include mounts specifically designed for the movement such entails - whereas the china kit engines were most definitely not. There's a world of difference between the typical factory soft mount with it's steel sleeved bushings and multiple fasteners and the china kit's two direct mount bolts, not least of which would be the soft mount's method of having separate and independent fasteners, usually involving two bolts to just the block and another one (or more) going to just the chassis - reducing or even completely eliminating the sheer load from the fasteners by relying on the mount itself to hold. In most cases if a automotive mount fails it's the "rubber" whereas if a soft-mounted china kit fails - it's the block and/or the fasteners. Soft mounting doesn't "eliminate" vibration, it isolates it - even amplifies it. Should that not be taken into consideration with specifically designed mounts, the fasteners will fail from the undue loading. Standard diagnostics really.

You jumped the gun a bit regarding Tom's post count reference - obviously post count alone means little beyond verbosity, it's the experience he referenced immediately thereafter within those posts that counts. While one doesn't always necessitate the other - you can usually make the assumption that a low post newbie with questionable advice may not be as experienced as another with not only obvious kit experience, but the years of forum contributions and the resultant observations of other's experimentation. Learning from mistakes is a valuable skill, even if they're not always your own mistakes and assumptions. Such is the value of research.

...and lastly, this "welding a sprocket to the hub" is perhaps an easy and quick fix - but it too has some drawbacks, it's very "permanence" being actually one of the biggest. Sort term ease & instant gratification is attractive, but it's often paid for in the long run, sprocket & hub wear, even normally simple gearing changes have now become potentially costly replacement instead of simple & cheap maintenance.



2door is a staff member and as such would be lax in his duties by letting such dubious advice go unchallenged as our absolute priority is the assistance, even the well-being of our memberbase. While generally speaking we subscribe to a "to each their own" philosophy regarding your own personal builds and tastes save the occasional suggestion - should someone choose to advise others with questionable "solutions" or even those proven wrong time and time again, it's the very least we can do to step in to help protect those that may not have the practical experience to question such themselves. As such, the "slack" you requested would be actually a failing on our part should we comply... save some reservation regarding tone, we try to constrain ourselves to stating simple facts instead of personal character judgments of course.

Here's anothe mount along those same lines. They added another tube that matches the contour of the original.
http://motorbicycling.com/f6/motor-mount-4047.html

BarelyAWake,

Freaking awesome reply

Thank you,I will remove my rubber from my mount today

use a piece of belt leather instead of rubber! I use the plate and U-bolt method which I fab up myself and it works great. the leather is a buffer between motor and frame to reduce vibration but still allows a solid fit.

In this thread is a example of a soft mount gone wrong.. That which rattles inevitably destroys.

http://motorbicycling.com/f6/frame-snapped-24887.html

the biggest problem i can see with welding a sprocket to the hub itself, is that you can't remove the spokes from the rim. if the rim ever get's damaged beyond something a simple truing can fix, the whole wheel's junk.

for the same reason, you'd have to weld the sprocket onto a complete wheel. it would be kinda funny if you made a perfect bead, had the sprocket perfectly aligned, were all proud of your work, thinking "i'll show them..."

then you realized you can't stick a spoke through it...