Whizzer build, help

TheSignGuy

TheSignGuy

Member
So I found reason to build a whizzed

Cheap, cost effective, and time saving,


Wondering is it bad to have the bike with no idler pulley but have engine stop by via kill switch only?

This will cost me 80 to build... the motors tension would be controlled by a sliding motor mount bracket til winter then I'll pull a old car tensioner.
 
The first MB I built as a teenager had no pedals and used direct belt drive. When warmed up I just pushed with one leg while seated on the bike and it ran. To stop it was just a little jerky stopping for the compression of the 3hp Briggs. Starting up cold I had no center stand so I would run next to the bike, find a hill, or some one would push for a little bit.
 
MEASURE TWICE said:
The first MB I built as a teenager had no pedals and used direct belt drive. When warmed up I just pushed with one leg while seated on the bike and it ran. To stop it was just a little jerky stopping for the compression of the 3hp Briggs. Starting up cold I had no center stand so I would run next to the bike, find a hill, or some one would push for a little bit.
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Lol "Flintstoned"



Well it will be independent from the pedals invade I may want to cruise to work. Debating using a go kart clutch but a direct belt throw would be better...


How do I install a kill switch on a non kill switch model I heard ones only a hot wire the others just grounded out.
 
There is a low tension side of the magneto at the primary. It goes to the points or if pointless to the integral module on the magneto. The magnetron pointless magneto on one of my Briggs has the low tension wire that goes to the kill switch, so I suspect it should have this wire. Also internally it must be connected to the module, so if no wire the engine will run, but stopping the engine with shorting the high tension, ie the spark plug, you would do with like thick boots that are not wet, or else!

Be careful, usually the wire is solid magnet wire and is covered with insulation black tube. The magnet wire gets brittle with age and I had it break off right where it enters the epoxy on the magneto. I carefully melted the epoxy with an old solder tip and then got a tiny piece of the wire free. Then I soldered extra stranded flexible high temp insulation wire and heat shrinked over the solder and then potted with high temp RTV for a stain relief. It was touch and go for a while there.
 
MEASURE TWICE said:
There is a low tension side of the magneto at the primary. It goes to the points or if pointless to the integral module on the magneto. The magnetron pointless magneto on one of my Briggs has the low tension wire that goes to the kill switch, so I suspect it should have this wire. Be careful, usually the wire is solid magnet wire and is covered with insulation black tube. The magnet wire gets brittle with age and I had it break off right where it enters the epoxy on the magneto. I carefully melted the epoxy with an old solder tip and then got a tiny piece of the wire free. Then I soldered extra stranded flexible high temp insulation wire and heat shrinked over the solder and then potted with high temp RTV for a stain relief. It was touch and go for a while there.
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Magnatron model, but it didn't have the clip for the wire Should add in a connection behind the bolt screw to the magneto and then wire to the ground frame to kill switch it?


BTW cleaned her up when I got off work she's cleaner then a stain...


Any suggestions for clear coat deep scuffs/scratches?
IMAG0114.jpg
 
If no wire maybe it is broke off or never had one? Not sure they made them with out.

When you say bolt, I would think that is the bare wire that goes to the magneto laminations which is ground. The primary has this bare wire and has to have the other that goes to the points or module, if it is accessible is the question.
 
MEASURE TWICE said:
If no wire maybe it is broke off or never had one? Not sure they made them with out.

When you say bolt, I would think that is the bare wire that goes to the magneto laminations which is ground. The primary has this bare wire and has to have the other that goes to the points or module, if it is accessible is the question.
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This model came


Unequipped and came with no switch on mine I usually pull the plug wire,

Some how I know the magneto has to be grounded out to kill it.



Have no intentions of installing the motor until I get a whizzed sheave wheel kit and have the go-kart bracket mounted on the rack my motor won't work for center mount so going to purchase a tensioner spring actuator kit in which I can install which will simulate a clutch.
 
He said Whizzed, is that a Whizzer? Anyway two stroke or four stroke igniton kill switch should be similar so was trying figure what he needed to make kill switch.
 
All good advice MT. I was just trying to figure out if he's working on a Whizzer.
 
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msrfan said:
All good advice MT. I was just trying to figure out if he's working in a Whizzer.
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Building my own whizzer I'm calling a welder soon man I drive to work from G town to des Moines WA and back.

I am putting 100 on the table to have her migged up.
 
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