Whizzer Black Knight Special Edition

btf331

New Member
Dec 2, 2008
10
0
0
NY
Hey guys just saying hello new to the site. I own a Whizzer Black Knight Edition, got it up to 35 but takes a while. Just Wondering how to make it a lil faster if any one has any ideas. I allready took out the baffel helped a lil. Ill post some pics of this bike its very rare and very fun.
 

Fossil

New Member
Mar 15, 2008
228
1
0
Guthriesville Pa
What year is this bike? You must be very careful about how you modify any Whizzer motor between 1999 and late 2004. The WC1 engine has a bad habit of loosing the valve seats when modified. The WC1 does not like the extra heat generated by modifications. The NE5 on the other hand does well when modified. (2005 on up) Now that we have that straight.
When you say baffle do you mean the exhaust baffle or the restrictor plate behind the carb? If your talking about the restrictor, put it back in. You can open it up to match the intake but it is needed to help keep the heat down in the carb. This is very important. Another thing you can do is advance the cam one tooth. Tilt the bike over to about 45 degrees and take the side plate off. It may be easier just to drain the oil but tilting the bike keeps you from having to do that. Rotate the crank until the dots line up on the crank and the cam. Move the cam one tooth counter clockwise and reassemble. Sometimes the cam comes out with the cover when it is removed. It is very simple to put back together just make sure the lifters stay in place. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Jim
 
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Fossil

New Member
Mar 15, 2008
228
1
0
Guthriesville Pa
You must be careful modifing a WC1 engine. The exhaust valve seat will seperate from the cylinder after about 300 to 400 miles if you open up the intake. Maybe sooner or later but it will happen. The added power generates too much heat. I will tell you how to do it but it will be at your own risk. I would look for an upgrade kit for the engine. The big difference is the cylinder and the way the valve seats are cast into the alunminum block. It also has more and larger cooling fins. The original piston and rings will work but the cylinder and head must be changed to eliminate the problem. Quenton Guenther is a guru with Whizzer engines and he posts here on the forum. He may be able to get a cylinder and head for you.
Good luck
Jim

PS My Whizzer is an upgraded 2000 WC1 and it runs very well after being upgraded. I am a big guy and it pulls me around very well.
 

Weedylot

Angry Old Fart
Jun 12, 2008
453
1
0
Tucson Arizona
I have what I think is a 98 or 99 "Special Edition" with the WC-1. I have posted a few questions for Quenton under "Questions for Quenton" thread.
From what I glean, the WC-1 is best left alone unless you're willing to do the extensive modifications and possibly more than what is described by Fossil.
I have been lucky, I guess, that my Whizzer has been flawless. Except for a nearly dry coaster brake, the bike has been well worth what I put into it.
I have a gut feeling that if I start modifying the thing it will turn into an expensive nightmare. (Check out Lennyharp's saga of disappointment with his brand new NE-5 in this Whizzer category. ) I'm leaving well enough alone until something breaks. My advice is to enjoy the bike as it is until it fails, THEN build it into a wheelie poppin', ground pounding, fire breathing monster. :D