Which Chain Tensioner

duke

duke

Member
Chain tensioner A
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Chain tensioner B
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The best thing to do is adjust the chain length so you don't need a chain tensioner

But if you must use a chain tensioner I suggest "B" the Arch

"A" can fail (piviot) and get jammed in the spokes
 
Do you plan to use that Schwinn Tiger? I made some track style dropouts and replaced the original ones that were brazed in on a Columbia cruiser frame.
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I don't like "A" because it doesn't have four bolts holding it to the frame it only has two and as sure as shooting that thing is going to get sucked into that rim. Notice all of my bolt on chain tensioner are four bolt.

"B" makes me nervous having all of that arching hardware next to the back rim . They're just too many components there that can malfunction.

I try to go with the rollers instead of the geared chain tensioners because depending on where you place it it can cause your chain to jump off and get stuck in the motor.

I don't like having to use them but if I have to absolutely use one, I like the spring loaded roller tensioner that mounts to the outside of the drive sprocket cover. I basically use it to keep the chain lash out because of the length of the drive chain.

I also like it because it keeps the tensioner away from the rims and moving parts.

I have almost a chain and a half length because of the design of my bike. I use three tensioners on my bike because of the geometry.

I'm riding a 1964 Schwinn tandem bike that's been modified and it was only a single speed so I have a VERY narrow backdrop out

And I don't really use them as tensioners but more or less guides because they just barely skim over the top of them unless it comes under a load but even then it just skims off of them.

I say go with whatever you're most comfortable with.
 

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Wevil Kenevil said:
I don't like "A" because it doesn't have four bolts holding it to the frame it only has two and as sure as shooting that thing is going to get sucked into that rim. Notice all of my bolt on chain tensioner are four bolt.

"B" makes me nervous having all of that arching hardware next to the back rim . They're just too many components there that can malfunction.

I try to go with the rollers instead of the geared chain tensioners because depending on where you place it it can cause your chain to jump off and get stuck in the motor.

I don't like having to use them but if I have to absolutely use one, I like the spring loaded roller tensioner that mounts to the outside of the drive sprocket cover. I basically use it to keep the chain lash out because of the length of the drive chain.

I also like it because it keeps the tensioner away from the rims and moving parts.

I have almost a chain and a half length because of the design of my bike. I use three tensioners on my bike because of the geometry.

I'm riding a 1964 Schwinn tandem bike that's been modified and it was only a single speed so I have a VERY narrow backdrop out

And I don't really use them as tensioners but more or less guides because they just barely skim over the top of them unless it comes under a load but even then it just skims off of them.

I say go with whatever you're most comfortable with.
Click to expand...

"Hopefully" the chain will be just so. The tensioners in the past would roll off center to the left or to the right. The bracket, even with four bolts, would roll, eventually wear a smooth spot on the frame, no matter how tight! The bike drove beautifully. However, not very safe on a fast turn, but then, what is?
 
duke said:
"Hopefully" the chain will be just so. The tensioners in the past would roll off center to the left or to the right. The bracket, even with four bolts, would roll, eventually wear a smooth spot on the frame, no matter how tight! The bike drove beautifully. However, not very safe on a fast turn, but then, what is?
Click to expand...
True that!
 
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