What is "cold setting" od spokes?
- Thread starter wayne z
- Start date
timboellner
Member
I'll refer you to Sheldon Brown's website.
This link will get you started understanding spoke adjusting, wheel truing and more info
on wheel building and everything under the sun to do with bicycles.
Truing Wheels
TiM
This link will get you started understanding spoke adjusting, wheel truing and more info
on wheel building and everything under the sun to do with bicycles.
Truing Wheels
TiM
bairdco
a guy who makes cool bikes
in layman's terms, it's using a wrench or a small prybar to (gently) tweak the spokes into shape by sticking the wrench in between the triangle where 2 spokes cross, lifting up on the lower spoke and pushing down on the upper.
a complicated definition for an easy operation.
you should do that with any spokes, new or old when building a wheel. it helps to get the spoke heads flush with the hub flange. if you look at those really cheap heavy duty rims, the spoke heads don't sit flat on the hub flange, because they're made by a machine in china.
a complicated definition for an easy operation.
you should do that with any spokes, new or old when building a wheel. it helps to get the spoke heads flush with the hub flange. if you look at those really cheap heavy duty rims, the spoke heads don't sit flat on the hub flange, because they're made by a machine in china.
happycheapskate
New Member
You will also hear of "pre stressing" spokes before final truing. I have built bicycle wheels, and this is valuable. Excessive force is not needed. You can do this with your hands by grabbing two spokes where they cross, on each side, nearest the other pair, and squeezing hard. If you hear creaking or pinging sounds, it means the spokes had torsion or twist in them, and you "relieved" it. Now, when you go around again to true, you will see if the wheel runout or true has changed.
I use a pair of customized needlenose pliers (rubber coated, shortened past the gripping teeth) to hold spokes under tension while turning the spoke nipple. This prevents the spoke twist, but I still relieve the spokes manually anyway, by squeezing the pairs of spokes, then placing the wheel on some cardboard or carpet and sitting hard on the rim, turning it 1/4 rotation and sitting, to compress the wheel. It makes sure the spokes are bedded at the elbow and the rim. After doing it this way, I have had very good luck with my wheels. I recommend brass nipples and straight guage spokes or butted spokes, but nothing radical, and recommend Spokey wrenches. I use alcohol as "spoke prep" (it evaporates after a day unlike waxy spoke preps or oils)
I use a pair of customized needlenose pliers (rubber coated, shortened past the gripping teeth) to hold spokes under tension while turning the spoke nipple. This prevents the spoke twist, but I still relieve the spokes manually anyway, by squeezing the pairs of spokes, then placing the wheel on some cardboard or carpet and sitting hard on the rim, turning it 1/4 rotation and sitting, to compress the wheel. It makes sure the spokes are bedded at the elbow and the rim. After doing it this way, I have had very good luck with my wheels. I recommend brass nipples and straight guage spokes or butted spokes, but nothing radical, and recommend Spokey wrenches. I use alcohol as "spoke prep" (it evaporates after a day unlike waxy spoke preps or oils)