Yeah that's why I should have went direct drive.
Now I'm no genius in gearing, but if a clutch is a problem I can now(weld in) a tensioners system and up pulley ratio on the drive end enough to match what comes out.
The problem isn't to me limitation by clutch
if it burns up I'll trash that idea if I can....
the true problem is figuring out how to get the top speed at 30 mph the idea of a manual tensioned pulley
If I'm assisting it by pedaling what's wrong with just upping the drive pulley to a manual instead of letting it chug add in a kill switch so it cuts the flow of power to the engine resulting in auto braking to slow it's self down?
To me it's like having a single chain ring without extra gears.....
Ideally if its a single speed....
You reached the Max pedal ratio before it can go no faster until the pedal sprocket is upped in tooth range which puts more struggle to reach a bigger top speed.
I have 2 clutches anyway really depends on the route.
If I swap the rims with non internal shift hubs I can fit a proper motorized bicycle sprocket chain drive on a flip flop hub.
If I stay with internal shift this sheave will have to be geared to match what the sheave can put out on a clutch.
If I go manual direct drive there are more open options just depends on how hard one wants to work to get rolling....
No idea is a failure some of you guys took 3 years of failure to become a 30 year succession vet in the mb game.
If ones crazy enough to build it, one will ride it.
Let's also not forget that without a motor shimano already gave me a too small gear ratio with a tiny behind front sprocket.
My pedal top speed is not any better
I need a bigger chain ring that makes first gear feel like second which in turn will make the final shift lower but require more feet to the ground propulsion.
So if we eliminate the clutch what size direct drive pulley will I need to do 30mph without touching the wheel sheave,?
Last edited:
