WC-1 Whizzer restrictor question

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by JohnHuebbe, Jul 13, 2016.

  1. JohnHuebbe

    JohnHuebbe New Member

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    I recently purchased a WC-1 Whizzer from someone off of craigslist. VIN Plate says Polar Motor Co. and dated March 2000. The past owner said it was NOS and he only put 5 miles on it. (Looks brand new) After riding it around a bit I decided to buy and install a centrifugal clutch from WhizzerPaul off eBay, to make it easier to ride.

    I have installed the clutch and the bike is barely able to move on flat ground and will not go up even a slight incline. I called Paul and he said to remove the restrictor from the intake. I found this post on another forum http://motoredbikes.com/threads/whizzer-intake-restrictor-plate-questions.7037/#post-92272 that details how to remove the restrictor using a tap, bolt, nut, and socket to pull it out. I'll try and remove it tonight when I get home.

    But, I have a few questions. Reading forums I've seen that people say that the motor won't last long with it removed because of the increase in horsepower and heat. I don't plan on riding the bike very fast and not for long distances. Just basically around a large campground or in my small neighborhood, mainly flat ground, and 15 to 20mph tops. Will I be ok? The bike has almost no miles on it now and I don't expect to put more than 30 to 50 miles on it a year. (I'd prefer holding off on buying the newer cylinder & head)

    And, is there a break-in period for the centrifugal clutch and the motor itself? If so, what's the break-in instructions.
     
  2. racie35

    racie35 Active Member

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    Messaged you
     
  3. JohnHuebbe

    JohnHuebbe New Member

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    Thanks for the call!
     
  4. racie35

    racie35 Active Member

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    You're welcome
     
  5. JohnHuebbe

    JohnHuebbe New Member

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    An update for anyone reading this. I was able to remove the restrictor in the intake. It slide right out. No force needed. It was actually loose in the bore by maybe a few thousandths.

    After taking it out the bike worked better but still seemed to stumble a bit. I adjusted the needle as much as I could. It only helped a bit.

    I rode 10 miles last night. The clutch didn't seem to improve. I guess I'll ride it more and see if that helps. The bike won't pull away from a dead stop unless I pedal a bit. Once going more than 5 to 8mph, then it seems to work ok. Going uphill it won't pull at all.

    Anyone else have experience with these clutches?

    (I've built other 80cc 2-stroke bikes and installed centrifugal clutches and they all worked great with starting from a dead stop.)

    I also ordered a new 2" muffler insert. I should get that next week, so I'll post an update after installing it.
     
  6. JohnHuebbe

    JohnHuebbe New Member

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    Another update. I rode another 25 miles today in order to break-in the clutch. So far there is no improvement. The clutch seems to be a piece of junk. Going to try and get my money back and return it.

    I also spoke to Quenton on the phone. Seems like a really nice guy that knows his stuff.
     
  7. mason_man

    mason_man Member

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    Hi, is your Whizzer blue?

    Ray
     

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  8. JohnHuebbe

    JohnHuebbe New Member

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    Yes, but no chrome tips. Is there something I should be aware of?
     
  9. mason_man

    mason_man Member

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    Yes, in the year 2000,Whizzer only produce 288 bikes for the hole year. The Blue 24" wheels Sportsman.
    You'll need to do a lot more to the top end to use the auto clutch.use a #76 or #78 main jet for your carb,make sure the slow idle jet is clear,one tooth advance with the timing. Use oil with zinc.
    This model wc-1 didn't have a small hole at the base of the cylinder where the valve tappet cavity is, letting oil in to lubricate. If you're going short runs, you should be ok.

    For the top end, you'll need to to clean up the ports and mill the head.
    Can you post a picture of your rider?

    Ray





    Yes,there's more. ;)
     

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  10. JohnHuebbe

    JohnHuebbe New Member

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    I was able to buy a #78 jet from a local scooter shop. I'll probably have to order a smaller size online if I need anything smaller.

    The bike seems to idle just fine, but I can double check that too.

    Do you have a link to instructions on changing the tooth advance?

    I'm 5'11" weigh 165lbs.
     
  11. mason_man

    mason_man Member

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    Yup,I'll dig it out tomorrow.
    Can you post pictures of the bike?

    Ray
     
  12. JohnHuebbe

    JohnHuebbe New Member

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    here are 2 photos from when I got the bike (before installing the rear chrome rack)
     

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  13. JohnHuebbe

    JohnHuebbe New Member

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    I ended up figuring it out. Wasn't too hard. Took the side cover screws off with my cheap impact screw driver. Then the camshaft fell out. I had to compress the exhaust valve spring with a long pry bar in order to get the bearing side back in (after rotating it 1 tooth counter-clockwise)

    I buttoned it back up, changed the valve clearance gap, changed out the main jet to a 78, adjusted the needle, and then rode it. Sounds much better, doesn't sputter, pulls better now once I'm going.

    dance1

    I also removed the centrifugal clutch and installed the manual clutch again. That clutch from Paul just doesn't work. I can hear the shoes slipping a bunch and it doesn't grab. Maybe I just got a bad one :/
     
  14. mason_man

    mason_man Member

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    I like the slip clutch, works for me.

    Ray
     

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