Two items that could save your life

K

karryhunt

New Member
If you want to eliminate 90% of your build problems these two items are a must

Hub adapter with sprocket

Kip Springer chain tensioner

Yes these two items cost nearly as much as the entire kit but the amount of headaches it will save you in the end will greatly out weigh the cost.
 
i would also suggest a stud/hardware change asap, i dont know about the kip springer tensioner but a google search might help you out, and the hub adapters come from a variety of sellers, pirate cycles, creative engineering, sportsman flyers, and are different quality but all work just as well, they range in price from $60 to around $100+.
 
I will never run a spring tensioner on a chinagirl kit. Its not that hard to get the sprocket centered which removes the need for this band-aid fix. Some bikes require a tensioner, but a spring loaded one is asking for trouble somewhere down the road.
All a spring does is make it LOOK tight, everytime you let off the throttle, there's all the slack on the top chain run.
Take the time to center whatever sprocket you use and you don't need a spring.
 
I'm with maniac57 on this - wouldn't bother with either of those. If after several tries, one can't put the chain on right, then perhaps it isn't work one is suited for; take it to a mechanic.
 
All i want is a hub adapter, custom motor mounts, custom gas tank, custom exhaust, custom wheels, and custom hardware. I'll make do with store bought stuff from the rest of the bike.
 
maniac57 said:
I will never run a spring tensioner on a chinagirl kit. Its not that hard to get the sprocket centered which removes the need for this band-aid fix. Some bikes require a tensioner, but a spring loaded one is asking for trouble somewhere down the road.
All a spring does is make it LOOK tight, everytime you let off the throttle, there's all the slack on the top chain run.
Take the time to center whatever sprocket you use and you don't need a spring.
Click to expand...

Actually, I'm using a spring loaded tensioner on my 98cc cruiser, and I have had zero issues with it other than having to reposition it a few times. Due to the way my gearbox is designed, if I didn't use a tensioner my chain would rub on my gearbox and would not be safe or possibly even operable at all. The tensioner I have is made from a kit tensioner, with a piece of aluminum stock that is bolted to where the tensioner wheel normally goes, and the wheel is instead bolted to one end of the aluminum stock and at the other end is the spring. I actually feel that this is better than a stock tensioner, because one of the main issues with stock tensioners is that the force from the chain going taut can actually pull the tensioner into the wheel. With the spring loaded tensioner, the force from the chain is instead transferred to the spring, thereby greatly reducing the risk of the tensioner being pulled into the spokes. As far as there being slack in the top chain at idle, thats an issue with any chain tensioner. I'm not exactly sure why it would be an issue, because as soon as you take off again, the slack is transferred to the bottom chain again. I have been using my spring loaded tensioner for almost two months now, and not once have I had a safety issue where the chain was at risk of jumping or anything like that. Even if I didn't need a tensioner due to my jackshaft design, I would more than likely run one anyway to eliminate the hassle of trying to match chain lengths between drive side and pedal side. I'd recommend the type of tensioner I'm running over a stock tensioner to anybody. Also, most motorcycles that have chain tensioners are spring loaded, not static like the stock tensioners (bleh!).
 
most motorcycles have sprockets that are perfectly in line - most MABs have to reach off to the side a bit to get to a sprocket, or avoid rubbing on a tire or frame member
 
Yes, but some motorcycles (older ones? dirtbikes?) do or did have chain tensioners, and they would usually be spring loaded, not static. Imo, having a static chain tensioner is just asking for trouble.
 
I might try a spring if I were installing over a rear suspension, but that would still leave a transient slack condition which is a real problem when the chain run isn't perfectly straight. MABs seem never to be that straight, and I don't really want to install over a rear suspension.
 
spring tensioner works great. it works even better if you use the case saver to keep the chain from binding inside the case. and even more better if you use a 10t sprocket instead of a roller wheel. I bought a much stiffer spring and when i let off the throttle the chain still stays fairly tight in that instant. the only time the chain slacks is when im trying to start, and like i said the spring is so stiff it pulls up the slack almost instantly. Im not using the kip spring tensioner im using the skipdu spring tensioner from ebay. it doesnt come with a spring, but you can find one at the hardware store. I bought this tensioner and its never coming off. I am still up for debate about the sprocket adapter as ive had trouble finding one that says it fits a 7 speed shimano hub, but ive never heard anyone say that they worked bad, i just need to find one that i know fits.
 
maniac57 said:
I will never run a spring tensioner on a chinagirl kit. Its not that hard to get the sprocket centered which removes the need for this band-aid fix. Some bikes require a tensioner, but a spring loaded one is asking for trouble somewhere down the road.
All a spring does is make it LOOK tight, everytime you let off the throttle, there's all the slack on the top chain run.
Take the time to center whatever sprocket you use and you don't need a spring.
Click to expand...

I think your wrong on several points.

Getting the sprockets lined up with the rag adapter is a real
problem and furthermore driving the bike by the spokes is flinstone technology. Using the hub adapter allows for lateral adjustment to get perfect alignment between the the sprockets. Even if your able to get perfect alignment initially with the rag, its just a matter of before everything goes haywire.

The Kip Springer tensioner with the optional 10 tooth sprocket is absolutely trouble free after 2000 miles.
 
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The purpose of a hub adapter is to remove all runout in the sprocket. You should not need a spring if the sprocket is centered. I only use mine to prevent rubbing on my frame. If you have enough slop to need a spring, something else is wrong.
As far as dirtbikes using springs, that is not comparable because dirtbikes have suspension movement and sometimes need a spring. Bicycle frames do not have rear wheel movment to compensate for.
 
I've accrued thousands of miles on a 'properly installed' rag joint. Never bent or loosened a spoke and I can assure you my chains and sprockets are perfectly aligned.
I have one bike with a sprocket adapter and I'm not all that impressed. It might help when you don't want to take the time or have the patience to install the rag joint correctly but above that, the adapter was an over priced accessory that I could easily live without.

As far as a chain tensioner, I've used them and run without a tensioner. Again, 'properly installed' a tensioner can provide you with a lot of riding without a problem. A spring tensioner is only a device that provides a way to tension the chain without doing the labor of adjusting the rear wheel. With an adjustable tensioner it only takes minutes and and there's no chain slack on start up or deceleration as with a spring tensioner.

Sorry I have to disagree with your assumption that they are critical to a successful motorized bike. As I posted above I feel that good brakes are far more essential than the two items in question.

Tom
 
I require a tensioner due to my gearbox design (4 stroke) as stated above. Even without the necessity due to that, matching chains on a beach cruiser is not always possible. Having a spring loaded tensioner transfers the force of the chain from the idler pulley to the spring. Where would you rather have the force directed, to the spring, or to the cheap little plastic idler wheel, and run the risk of having your tensioner pulled into your spokes? The spring takes that force and converts into moving energy instead of static energy. I use a hub adapter, but still don't want my tensioner pulled into my spokes, and a properly installed spring tensioner is far less dangerous than a static tensioner. Just because a hardtail might not necessarily NEED spring tensioning, does not mean that it will not work or will be unsafe in any way.
 
2door said:
I've accrued thousands of miles on a 'properly installed' rag joint. Never bent or loosened a spoke and I can assure you my chains and sprockets are perfectly aligned.
I have one bike with a sprocket adapter and I'm not all that impressed. It might help when you don't want to take the time or have the patience to install the rag joint correctly but above that, the adapter was an over priced accessory that I could easily live without.

As far as a chain tensioner, I've used them and run without a tensioner. Again, 'properly installed' a tensioner can provide you with a lot of riding without a problem. A spring tensioner is only a device that provides a way to tension the chain without doing the labor of adjusting the rear wheel. With an adjustable tensioner it only takes minutes and and there's no chain slack on start up or deceleration as with a spring tensioner.

Sorry I have to disagree with your assumption that they are critical to a successful motorized bike. As I posted above I feel that good brakes are far more essential than the two items in question.

Tom
Click to expand...

Ok, so you know how to properly install the rag joint but the majority of builders have a problem with it. Are you honestly saying driving from the spokes is better than driving from the hub??

Please tell us what your not impressed with on the hub adapter and also the maker of adapter. If you can properly install a rag joint I'm sure its not an installation problem.

I never said they were critical to a successful motorized bike but those two items are a nightmare to the majority of first time bike builders and greatly affect the safety of the rider.
 
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