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Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by Nunyadam, Jun 25, 2013.
still needs work on the chain and tensioner, but its riding pretty nice.
I took a couple links out of the chain today The Tensioner has now been moved forward, and is just there as a guide to keep the chain off the frame. This Huffy Newport seem to be pretty narrow for a fat tired cruiser.
Adjusted the Needle on the carb. (way rich) and now it idles, and pulls well. opened it up for a bit, 27mph max which is just fine. Now its time to put some miles on it.
I even hooked up the Kill switch, though i will probably still use the clutch to kill it most of the time.
I wouldn't stall your engine by popping the clutch. There's no need to stress your clutch like that.
If you don't want the kill switch, then you can always kill your engine by choking and throttling.
Most of my new motors like the needle second slot from the top. Don't bother tuning until you have a few tanks through it. These engines take several hundred miles to fully break in. Take it easy the first tank and then ride it normally.
thank you both for the good advice. The needle is already in just that slot, and I'll use the kill switch, or choke from now on.
the clear plastic runners that you use on stairs and buy at hardware store work really good for motor mount bushing instead of rubber tubing. just cut to size needed[/URL][/IMG]
Not a good idea. Any resilient material between the engine and frame will NOT eliminate vibrations but only transfer them to the mounts and fasteners. Mount the engine solid with no soft material. Not just my opinion but that of all experienced builders.
This is exactly right. Mounts work best when SOLID!
Unfortunately the mounts and diameter of frame are way off so unless i weld a solid piece to it im kinda stuck
Find some metal pipe to cut in half.It does not have to be welded to the frame.
Even PVC would be better than rubber, just check it for wear more often.