The bolt that goes inside the clutch?

F

fugirocksolid

New Member
Hello recently I lost the metal cylinder thing that goes inside the clutch. The cylinder that the actuator pushes of in order to open the clutch.

What is that called?

also where would I find a replacment.

CHeers
 
fugirocksolid said:
Hello recently I lost the metal cylinder thing that goes inside the clutch. The cylinder that the actuator pushes of in order to open the clutch.

What is that called?

also where would I find a replacment.

CHeers
Click to expand...
You are an Aussi, make one lol

It's just a metal bar....
5/16" OD
1 1/8" long out of a RAW motor I think

A hair over 1" long out of a old NantongJaiLi bushed motor
I'll measure some other brands tomorrow.
 
BiMoPed said:
You are an Aussi, make one lol

It's just a metal bar....
5/16" OD
1 1/8" long out of a RAW motor I think

A hair over 1" long out of a old NantongJaiLi bushed motor
I'll measure some other brands tomorrow.
Click to expand...


Whoops sorry, already made one on the lathe and grinder before checking the thread again.

Works better than the stock one too. Much better clutch actuation.

Cheers anyway
 
BiMoPed said:
How long did you make yours?
Why does yours work better than the stock one?
What did you change?
thanks
Click to expand...

I used some spare iron bar in the shop. About the same width as the original.

Cut it down to size, used the bench grinder to flatten the ends. Then with the lathe made a smooth taped edge so it operates smoothly inside the engine.

Then I polished it so it actuated effectively.

Its also about .5mm smaller, so it has more room to move.

When I pull the clutch its
-easier
-more effective
-opens the clutch more

cheers
 
There is also a good size ball bearing that goes in ahead of the rod to give something for the clutch to spin on besides just a metal bar. Any large ball bearing from a bike wheel will work. Just shorten the bar to adjust for bearing size.
Good Luck,
Big Red.
 
fatdaddy said:
There is also a good size ball bearing that goes in ahead of the rod to give something for the clutch to spin on besides just a metal bar. Any large ball bearing from a bike wheel will work. Just shorten the bar to adjust for bearing size.
Good Luck,
Big Red.
Click to expand...
Ball bearing should measure about 5/16" or 8 mm.
I do not think you would want to go bigger than that.
 
fugirocksolid said:
I used some spare iron bar in the shop. About the same width as the original.

Cut it down to size, used the bench grinder to flatten the ends. Then with the lathe made a smooth taped edge so it operates smoothly inside the engine.

Then I polished it so it actuated effectively.

Its also about .5mm smaller, so it has more room to move.

When I pull the clutch its
-easier
-more effective
-opens the clutch more

cheers
Click to expand...
Smoothing and polishing the cam and bucking bar is a mod I've been telling people about for a long time. I smooth the cam and pin with a Dremel sanding disc then polish the contacting surfaces on a bench buffer. This will dramatically reduce the amount of pull on the handlebar clutch lever. I'm glad someone else has figured out this simple mod.
Of course, along with smoothing these parts a good bearing grease helps reduce the friction too.
Tom
 
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