Switchblade (pipe)Dream Build

PsychDoc

Member
Sep 8, 2019
69
73
18
53
I am grateful for the energy and input- don't think its not considered- I was already well on my way toward the GC160- and I'm looking for a cruiser, not a racer. Your first build was adventurous for sure- I don't think I have the guts to do all of that.
Still considering transmission options- liking the look of the 3D manual clutch.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fasteddy

Tony01

Well-Known Member
Nov 28, 2012
1,347
697
113
sf bay area
Well, you’ve run yourself into a corner with an engine that is known to blow when valve float rpm is reached, so a cvt geared somewhat tall may work.There are non trivial issues you’ll have to work out, like having a strong rear wheel and hub to handle the extra starting torque, aligning the cvt output sprocket to the wheel sprocket... also you will need an extra wide bottom bracket to clear the cvt... just a whole slew of things to work out. That cvt unit is BIG.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: fasteddy

PsychDoc

Member
Sep 8, 2019
69
73
18
53
Thanks Tony- I am thinking a cruising rpm around 3500-4000 with a rare burst to 5000. I think a jackshaft is going to need to be part of the driveline. I was hoping I could do without but with gearing and alignment issues to solve a jackshaft mid stream should solve a lot of problems.
And- what do y’all think about the 3D manual clutch? I’m giving it serious consideration.

Tony- do you know who put Alice in the chains? Is she some sort of hostage needing rescue? Or maybe she’s just into some consensual BDSM?
 
  • Like
Reactions: fasteddy

PsychDoc

Member
Sep 8, 2019
69
73
18
53
Well, I have decided on the engine- so that’s sorted. Now to the how to mount this thing. I might have to either learn to weld or farm out the job. I don’t know if a bolt on option exists.
I’ve been all over the map thinking trans, vs CTV, vs manual clutch- still not settled. The left face of the engine is about 3” left of centerthe -the rear sprocket should be about 1.25” from centerline. So, regardless of clutch choice, I will need to get the chain approximately 2” to the right... I don’t want to shift the engine right - it is already right side heavy. So jack shaft? Will it fit? Ideas?
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: fasteddy

indian22

Well-Known Member
Dec 31, 2014
3,600
3,837
113
Oklahoma
Doc when I build using a built frame I assemble it first. Rolling frame, up on rubber and ridable as a peddle bike. That's how I know if it's going to work with the individual components & how they will fit on the bike. You know the engine fits in the frame but you need the bike up on wheels or find a bike frame just like yours that's been motorized more or less like you want it. The CVT should fit with few problems, but it's like assembling a jigsaw puzzle you find one correct piece at a time and build from there. The frame of the bike represents the borders of the puzzle next the fork then the wheels and tires That should be done before selecting a motor etc. etc. one piece depends & builds on the previous piece. Final alignment takes place at the end of the build, so leeway is required for final adjustments. One off builds are all different and hardly anything ever just fits. What you want has to be altered quite often into what will work and or fit with modifications, That's why time to construct these type builds isn't calculated in hours or days. It takes time especially the first few one off bikes.

Rick C.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fasteddy

PsychDoc

Member
Sep 8, 2019
69
73
18
53
Thanks Rick, this was a fully functional Nirve Switchblade, you may recall. My thought is to sort the powered side then route the pedal side. I haven’t seen anything very close to this build though I admit my experience is little.
My current theory on the cvt is to use a shaft through the ‘inside’ of the mounting plate to get the output sprocket further toward the centerline.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fasteddy

indian22

Well-Known Member
Dec 31, 2014
3,600
3,837
113
Oklahoma
I'd make every effort to get the stock motor and unaltered CVT to actually work before any alterations are made to either & before mounting in the frame. I bolt the motors to a workbench so I can start and test off the bike, with CVT mounted, new motors I run a couple of hours like this before I try to mount in a frame. Sticking to basics will save a lot of time and effort not to speak of dollars.

Rick C.
 

PsychDoc

Member
Sep 8, 2019
69
73
18
53
This is a bit of a double post but I want to keep current
Quick update- I received my front hub today. I think it was a good choice. Still waiting for my spokes- I think they are being conveyed via Junk transporting rubber dog poo to the local joke shop. Anyway, this thing is smooth as silk. It was ordered from Brands Cycle & Fitnesses via Amazon- 66.49 + tax free delivery.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: indian22

indian22

Well-Known Member
Dec 31, 2014
3,600
3,837
113
Oklahoma
This is a bit of a double post but I want to keep current
Quick update- I received my front hub today. I think it was a good choice. Still waiting for my spokes- I think they are being conveyed via Junk transporting rubber dog poo to the local joke shop. Anyway, this thing is smooth as silk. It was ordered from Brands Cycle & Fitnesses via Amazon- 66.49 + tax free delivery.
Sturmy's been around for 120 years or better & make some nice products. Lace 'em right and they'll work well.

Rick C.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PsychDoc

PsychDoc

Member
Sep 8, 2019
69
73
18
53
A little progress this weekend. Here is the fleet. One stock, one stripped and running, and the third I put on a diet. The slender one will go in the final product while the stunt double in the middle will be the mock up flunky. I was hoping to polish the engine but it’s proving to be a time consuming PITA.

Oh- where do you get the non fin flywheel? I am considering a backyard mill job and cutting them all off.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: indian22

indian22

Well-Known Member
Dec 31, 2014
3,600
3,837
113
Oklahoma
It's nice to have backups Doc. Are they all runners? Lifan speed parts; I'd also like to know of vendors that carry parts for these.

I have a new 152 F 99cc version, 3 hp. that might require some go fast/look good parts. I might mount it to a frame some day.

Rick C.
 

PsychDoc

Member
Sep 8, 2019
69
73
18
53
All three fired up with no problems- seem to run smoothly. I can't find much in the way of go fast/look good parts on these at all- the racers and cart guys all seem to use the GX's. It's hard to find specs on many parts to see if they are compatible.

Question to all- the engine- GC160- (from memory will correct later if I'm wrong)
the intake and exhaust mount holes:confused: both have 44mm spacing exhaust is 1"
any suggestions for carb or exhaust?
44mm is correct.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: indian22

curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
5,044
1,426
113
minesota
How about checking with the go-kart sites and see what they run for carbs? And not hard to bump them up some, like the go-kart sites longer intake, change the timing, ( msrfan knows he did a adjustable one ), match the ports, and I like sportsman’s step exhaust, on his flyer. Maybe even get ahold of AGK, .........Curt
 
  • Like
Reactions: indian22