So many problems, Just wanna know....?

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perplexium

New Member
:-|| Now to start off i would like to say I have run this kit for over 5000 miles on an old Vega beach cruiser from 1970s, full on hard tail and everything. I was riding an average of 14 miles 1 way and putting in some good miles for a few weeks. Loved the engine even thought the motor mounts stripped and the chain destroyed 3 wheels. It was time for a new bike something that would offer a little more ease to my Sore bottom. I purchased a Motiv full suspension bike i am starting to modify. The frame is aluminum and is wider then the motor mounts will accommodate. I am planning to weld mounts to the bike and motor witch will allow me to complete this monster Full suspension project I just need to have a few questions answered. In order to weld mounts directly to the motor i need to know exactly what these little beasts are made of. I need to know what kind of metal and what temp they are cast at. If anyone has ANY idea of where i can find such information let me know please. Or if you are a welder yourself and have welded parts to your engine to make it more sturdy let me know the process used, IE. (Tig, Mig, what kinda rod used and amps) Any information will help me at this point because I am going into this project with blinders on. Im going to Post pictures later of my build and will give the information i find most use full back to the community. Just like i said if you have any ideas or comments on this post leave some feed back i would love to hear from all my Motor Head buddys..shft.
 
Hate to answer your question with a question but why not just make mounts that bolt to the engine? A flat metal bar with a muffler clamp sort of thing.
 
Yea Toy I was gonna suggest that also, if you attempt to weld to the engine block itself I can guarantee a failure will happen. Part of it just cast aluminum, it can be welded best using a tig welder but will not hold under much pressure.

Your best bet is to make a steel brace to bolt to the motor mount itself and then fit your brace to your bike. I have used the "drill your frame and use 1 bolt " method but it broke after just 1 mile, so i made a wider steel bracket and used a u-bolt to tie into it and that u-bolt wrapped around my lower center post like on most motor mounts.

good luck
 
I have to agree with the mounts idea. Far easier, removable and leaves the paint job intact. And there are a lot you can buy for very lil $. Bolt and good to go. Not that making one is all that hard. I make em with a drill press, a vise, 3 bolts to shape the "U" and hardware store flat stock. (mine ain't pretty, but work well)
 
Can anyone post a picture of what their home fabricated motor mounts look like? the reason i decided not to go with the motor mounts is because after the first 2 where striped out i replaced with larger diameter American made bolt and still get the same shear off that happened with the original bolts. I was thinking about maybe buying heavy duty epoxy and fixing the bolts into the engine permanently. Any pictures and or videos of what your mounts look like would be much appreciated. Thanks!
 
I looked around for pics with no luck but another member may find one.
You must not be seating your engine in place properly and are using the two studs to draw the engine into place. The engine should sit in place and the studs are to just hold it in place.
As for making a mount, try to picture a piece of flat piece of metal bar about a 1/4 inch thick and about 5 inches long and one inch wide. Now you drill four holes in it. Two of the holes are lined up with your studs. Now it can be mounted on the engine. Now you take a muffler clamp and from the front of the bike you put the clamp over the bikes downtube and through the remaining two holes. Now you put the two nuts on the clamp and you are done.
Another way I have used is to drill one hole in the centre of that stock mount that comes with the kit and put a bolt through it. You can drill the frame and run that one bolt through the frame. Go over to sickbikeparts site and look at how they make a rear mount. Same idea as my first suggestion but they use a larger bracket and run with two muffler clamps instead of just one and thier mount runs vertical instead of horizontal. I'm sure you will get it after seeing it.
 
I tried the drill thru method , but it didnt last.

So then I welded a nut on either end of the "universal" mounting bracket and used a u-bolt to finish it off. this method was much stronger
 

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yup Toytime, thats the right idea and basically what i did for free, uhm I shoud say free with some elbow grease. But for less fabricating minds that mount is perfect for over sized tubes.The one in your link , not your picture
 
I'm surprised no one else has mentioned your idea of using a full suspension bike. There will be an issue of engine drive chain tension with this frame. As the rear wheel moves there will be constant tightening and loosening of the chain. If you're a fabricator you might get away with a spring tensioner of some design but It had better work right or you could find yourself with chain wrap and the associated problems it will create. The rack mount 4 stroke engines make using a full suspension frame possible however. You might explore that option as opposed to the in-frame concept. As for welding on the engine...DON"T EVEN TRY. Unless you have access to a couple of old engines of the same material to practice on I can guarantee you'll destroy your motor. That from a guy who has been welding on standard as well as exotic metals for over 40 years.
Tom
 
check out my mounts on my gary fisher...aluminum...its in the winter build off...chinese frame...bought the diamiter of the frame...pipe that is...from Lowes...,cut it in half...found perfect center...drilled holes and tapped them...build a 1/4" plate that attaches to the motor mount holes...drilled and tapped it...bought grade 8 b9olts...true value hardware...found were i wanted to put engine on frame...put Goop on brakets and frame place them on and drilled holes thru frame...than bolt everything togeather...sounds easy...ha...works great, no vibration...and no nuts...allen bolts instead of mount studs....hope this helps...Dennis
 
here is a few pics,,,might help...if i had to do it again, i'd bring it lower without spacers...but is works just fine...with the duels exhaust, it acts as a 3 point engine mount...stabilizing the engine more...less vibration...this is a aluminum frame...and i drilled thru the frame...with threaded steel pipe around the frame...hope this helps...Dennis
 

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drhofferber said:
show the rear view...mounting....looks good...what kind of bike...
Click to expand...
That motors on another bike now, the vibes where too much. The rear mount was mated to a 1/4" plate and then 1/8" band steel. The front mount is two "U" plates lock bolted for flexibility. When you zoom in you can see it better. :)
 
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