Satisfaction comes in many colors

wrenching4fun

Well-Known Member
All of us get some form of satisfaction from this hobby or we wouldn’t go to the trouble. In the beginning, it was all about resurrecting a so called “donor bike’, usually a cast off from a dumpster or yard sale, to make it useful again. At that point, investing as little as possible in each build was a key goal. Some early builders developed an itch to use the hobby as a creative outlet and took the hobby to new levels by replicating early board track racers or vintage Harleys and Indians. Some of these early creations were truly inspiring and continue to be today.



Then there were those who chose to challenge the limits of bicycles by emphasizing speed. Engines were modified to increase rpms and horse power with better carbs, different timing, reeds, and porting. Others found ways to cram larger and larger 4 strokes like Predator 212s tied to a CVT into a frame. All of this led to an interest in racing, primarily in Southern California, with an impressive, but short-lived, degree of interest and success.



At the same time, some builders formed loosely-organized clubs to sponsor urban excursions similar to those held by moped clubs. Interesting videos of rides through major cities like LA were posted online showcasing points of interest and dubious traffic law observation. Conspicuous among the content was the high incidence of breakdowns and some of the creative ways of overcoming them. Bikes with Ape Hangars, fishtail exhausts, custom paint jobs, and colorful rims attracted a lot of attention from drivers and pedestrians.



Throughout this evolution, vendors continued to promote different versions of engines and other equipment to support the hobby. The cost of building a bike was generally low, mainly due to cheap imports, allowing nearly anyone to pick up the hobby. The consistently poor quality resulted in high frustration especially among participants with limited mechanical ability or tools, causing high turnover in the ranks. More determined members turned to higher quality engines and drive components in an effort to improve reliability and safety. Utilization of Morini engines, flathead B&S engines, and aftermarket products by Grubee Inc, Sic Bike Products, and Staton Inc. offered alternatives, but as stated already, not everyone possessed the skills to make something other than a “plug n play” option work.



Nevertheless, diehards persevere and continue to enjoy the brotherhood of the build. As I age out of the hobby, boosting speed and riding in parades to showcase my work becomes less and less important. This morning, for example, I felt a strong sense of satisfaction just tidying up my cables and wiring with zip ties. In the past, I would have been thinking about a paint scheme or cursing the rain for keeping me from riding my new build. Truth is, if the sun came out right now, I’d probably jump on the Ebike and go for a slow easy ride with the wife. One thing that never changes is change.
 
There was one area you left out. There have been many whose bikes was their primary source of transportation. Reliability, safety, and hauling capacity became the primary objectives. Being on a pedal only forum and learning good cycling skills greatly improved my ability to safely navigate traffic.

I once really enjoyed building but due to declining health issues; I just find it painful now. I even see a day coming that I'll trade 2 wheels in for 3 wheels. I thinking a recumbent tadpole.
 
I can relate to your thoughts and feelings. The fun for me is in the build, taking those ideas and crazy notions in my mind and actually putting it all together to see it actually work as I envisioned. Once my builds are done, I seldom ride them as the small town I live in is pretty hilly and the roads lading into and out of town don’t have shoulders. If I want to do any serious riding, I load the bikes up in my truck and head to a nearby town that has plenty of room to ride.
 
My off road briggs is only legal on OHV parks. I always have to load it up and unload. Camping only makes sense to have at
least two days of riding. If I can get it back out when weather is better, I can get up enough momentum to cross a mud spot a few feet before it slows too much and do a mud plant.

Mostly have been just been doing other stuff with good times snorkeling in the Pacific when small enough breakers.

I suppose the second valve job I hope to have done to have more camp ride outings.

MT
 
I had looked into cvt, but centrifugal clutch is it. The bike is heavy that the clutch is not very good going up hills and slips if too steep. Maybe CVT that has more surfaces interal to it to do better. The Rokon is a heavy bike so even more so, maybe two parallel clutches.

Smaller wheel is like lower ratio, so that would be good to possible not slip though slower speeds. Trail riding I don't go so fast anyway.

At one time I had twin jack shafts to get around 20:1 ratio, compromise speed but going up hills better. When I was going down hills I could let of throttle and engine breaking would last until getting close to idle. The bike was spinning the engine. Near stealth mode, I could turn off engine and listing to gears and the sheave belt only.
 
On occasion, satisfaction comes in the form of a solution to a nagging problem. Nothing is more annoying than dull drill bits. Most make the mistake of buying cheap bits from China that are good for one or two holes in aluminum and they're done. I have a bucket of bits collected over time. Most were made in the USA in the 50s or 60s and are the best steel available. A few are from Germany or Austria and they are made from high carbon steel as well.

Even the best bits become dull with use and I've used mine a lot. Last week I became frustrated while trying to drill holes for a bracket I was fabricating. No bueno! Out of sheer frustration I decided to make a jig to sharpen my bits with my angle grinder. Pouring through my junk bin I found a perfect piece of angled steel plate. I cut it at the correct angle using a 1/3" nut as a guide. After some welding and tapping for a screw to hold the bit in place I mounted the jig to the threaded hole for the ginder's removable handle (You have to remove the disc shield). The jig is in two equally shaped parts, one holds the drill stationary and the other is mounted to the grinder as a guide.

You simply place the bit in the slide, tighten the hand screw and push the slide into the guide till the bit engages the disc. A couple of hits is all it takes. I tested the jig on a buggered 1/4 drill and it cut through a steel plate like a hot knife through butter. Will finish the jig tomorrow and sharpen my most useful bits. Ask me if I'm satisfied with the outcome.



jig1.jpg



jig2.jpg


jig3.jpg
 
On occasion, satisfaction comes in the form of a solution to a nagging problem. Nothing is more annoying than dull drill bits. Most make the mistake of buying cheap bits from China that are good for one or two holes in aluminum and they're done. I have a bucket of bits collected over time. Most were made in the USA in the 50s or 60s and are the best steel available. A few are from Germany or Austria and they are made from high carbon steel as well.

Even the best bits become dull with use and I've used mine a lot. Last week I became frustrated while trying to drill holes for a bracket I was fabricating. No bueno! Out of sheer frustration I decided to make a jig to sharpen my bits with my angle grinder. Pouring through my junk bin I found a perfect piece of angled steel plate. I cut it at the correct angle using a 1/3" nut as a guide. After some welding and tapping for a screw to hold the bit in place I mounted the jig to the threaded hole for the ginder's removable handle (You have to remove the disc shield). The jig is in two equally shaped parts, one holds the drill stationary and the other is mounted to the grinder as a guide.

You simply place the bit in the slide, tighten the hand screw and push the slide into the guide till the bit engages the disc. A couple of hits is all it takes. I tested the jig on a buggered 1/4 drill and it cut through a steel plate like a hot knife through butter. Will finish the jig tomorrow and sharpen my most useful bits. Ask me if I'm satisfied with the outcome.



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On my bike:

My horn is held on by a modified water pipe ground clamp; because the pot metal aluminum clamp that came with the horn broke while tightening it with a flat head screwdriver.

The front/rear signal light mounts is a combination of modifying the old kit mounts combined with modifying the new kit mounts to make something that would work.

The mirrors have fabricated bracing so that the image in them isn't bouncing all over the place.

My bike is top heavy, so I made a long kick stand to keep it from possibly falling over while parked.

I totally agree satisfaction can come from our creative abilities to solve our problems.
 
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Making brackets and clamps is fun once you get the hang of it and it can save a lot of money. Having a welder opens a lot of options. Universal parts or one size fits all doesn't always work. I like classic bike mirrors with jeweled studs, but they're a little flimsy and bounce from engine vibration. I found some heavy duty clamp-on mirrors on Amazon that look too modern but they are solid.
 
Making brackets and clamps is fun once you get the hang of it and it can save a lot of money. Having a welder opens a lot of options. Universal parts or one size fits all doesn't always work. I like classic bike mirrors with jeweled studs, but they're a little flimsy and bounce from engine vibration. I found some heavy duty clamp-on mirrors on Amazon that look too modern but they are solid.
Welding is another good reason to love a steel frame bicycle.
 
All of mine are clamp-ons to preserve integrity of the vintage frame in case I ever want to revert back to a bicycle. It takes more time to design them, but if I screw up, I'm not stuck with it. I just remove it, make a better one, and I'm good to go. (One of the drawbacks to being old with sketchy eyesight and coordination)!
 
All of mine are clamp-ons to preserve integrity of the vintage frame in case I ever want to revert back to a bicycle. It takes more time to design them, but if I screw up, I'm not stuck with it. I just remove it, make a better one, and I'm good to go. (One of the drawbacks to being old with sketchy eyesight and coordination)!
Welding mistake had me with angle grinder 5hrs clean up to start again. Though I did afterward, still welding made a modification, it allowed using belt clutch and a back idler pulley for tension or alternately a toothed gear clutch where the whole engine could take up tension sliding forward or aft.

I definitely admire the clamping way. It was better than the plans I bought from an ad in the back of a popular mechanics magazine way back in the mid 70's. Heck, why drill a hole through a bottom tube. Those are real good plans! Not!!!

Still later my Dad took the bike to his school auto shop. He taught physics, but had access to the shop. He use gas braising and made a nice platform for the engine, the modification allowed belt tension rather than keeping replacing belts as they stretched.

MT
 
The sliding engine idea reminds me of Motobecane mopeds where the engine swung on a pivot to compensate for the action of its variator. My first build was friction drive with an engine that pivoted into the rear wheel for engagement. Lots of ways to skin a cat!
 
I think before I got two other attachment points with steel cable and turn buckle, the engine was like it could tension up by engine swing.

If one of my bros had mentioned to just use knee and leg to be sort of pressing the engine to swing inward as a kind of clutch, I think I might have cringed.

Yep, the bike was push start and kill switch stop, no clutch at all.

Before I bought a twist grip mini bike throttle to put on the bike, I had that stiff wire lawn mower throttle, but it was stuck and wound not move.

My bro just took the throttle off the handle bars and stuffed it in his pocket with it full throttle on.

A string attached to the spring loaded vacu-jet Briggs carb choke, had it that you pulled the choke to kill the engine. Don't think I had a kill switch button. There was that stiff metal spring to short the spark plug, but you would get shocked that way. The string routed up and around fork neck handle bar location and up to handle bar was so you just tugged the string and killed the engine to stop.

To adjust the speed of the bike, you just modulated the duty cycle of tugging the string.

An extra quart of gas strapped under the banana seat with electrical tape for long distances. Some gas station that I wanted to get gas, said just empty the hoses on the pumps. I guess he may have though the next person paying wouldn't mind, know, or he did not want to be involved with a motor bike as like this.

At one point when I was not around I found out from a bro that my dad had gone down a drive way and got the wheels caught between a lawn and the cement. Emergency to get a few stitches above his eye on his head.

Helmets were later being used.

I ran the bike and jumped clearing the top of a hill with a long fast run up. I had to weave a little on the narrow dirt trail. Trees were on all sides. The back wheel cleared the ground a bit less than the front, but enough to hear the engine with no load and spinning the rear wheel real fast. It skidded upon landing and the engine was back under load.

I suppose that had something to do with a crack right above the stupid place I drilled the hole in the down tube for one anchor point on the frame, as in the plans I bought for 10 dollars. Also the braising of the engine platform by my dad to make adjustment by sliding the engine forward or aft without any gussets probably had influence on breaking too.

I wanted to keep riding before I knew of a fix. Glad I did not kill myself! It spread the crack about an inch apart, making parting crack in a frame tube, but as a light weight kid, I guess I had a better chance of living riding a death trap as such.

MT
 
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