Pulling the cylinder...

S

Slogger

Member
Hi
I've never had to take the cylinder off, I'm having a minor leak around the base. You can feel a small, hot draft when you put your hand near the case/cylinder. Engine is a 66cc CG and has about 450 miles on it.
Stock with a long manifold and slightly modded muffler.

It was fine one day, then it wasn't. It lost some power and about 5 mph on top.
:-||
Hard to start and just doesn't pull like it was.
Today it ran better, but still not up to snuff.
Anywho, I want to call Duane at DAX and put a new base gasket on.
Now the question- If I take it off and carefully reinstall it, do I need to replace anything, like the rings for instance, to get it to run like before?

Maybe I should tear it down before calling Duane, to see if anything else might need replaced while I'm in there. Or maybe the old gasket with a coat of permatex hi temp seal would be a cheaper fix..

Thanks for any responses ahead of time.

Slogger
 
Removing the cylinder is the easy part. It just slides upward and the piston comes out the bottom.

The problem is getting the piston/rings back in when you reassemble things. You must compress the piston rings so they'll slide into the cylinder but while doing that you must also align the ring gaps with the alignment pins that are in the ring grooves of the piston.
This can be tricky the first time you do it and you need to be cautious and not force anything. The rings will break easily if you do. Above all don't hammer on it. Once the rings are aligned and compressed everything will slide together easily.
Lube the rings, piston and cylinder walls with your 2 stroke oil before assembling.

Good luck.

Tom
 
Thanks, Tom
I'll do that. I may not need to, found another prob that could be causing the power loss.
Apparently the carb float isn't shutting off the gas.
I use the tickler every time it's cold, pushing it down til it stops.
This might be too much, bending the tabs and making the float leak by.
Just a theory.
I'll take it apart and see.
Thanks again, I may pull the top end for a look anyway, I'll be sure to lube it as it goes back together.
 
If the float valve isn't stopping the fuel flow there's a good chance there is some crud in the needle and seat. The tickler button usually won't bend anything even when depressed firmly. The float could be out of adjustment but while you have it apart blow out the fuel inlet of the carb.
Make sure when you put the bowl back on that the float hinge pin hasn't slid to one side which will keep the bowl from seating against the gasket. Big fuel leak will result.

We always recommend an in-line fuel filter. That helps keep stuff from clogging the float valve. Also if you feel the need to use the tickler holding it down for more than three or four seconds can cause flooding and a hard starting engine. Try not using it and just using half choke when starting a cold engine.

Tom
 
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